How to make a degree wheel

-
1930

1930

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
1,029
Reaction score
46
Location
Brandon
I have the two degree wheels, both are 7 inch. I am wondering if these small of wheels is going to give me the accuracy of readings that I am hoping to see.

I know that the larger the better. I see them 2 hundred plus wheels and I dont have an issue with buying a quality tool but I also am considering how often I would use it and that is in question still at this point.

Isnt there a way that a degree wheel can be made with a simple mathematical tool, I dont know what its called but I thought there was an in-expensive plastic see thru gimmick that we all had as kids and we carried in our bookbags never too be used. ( but it did look kinda cool sitting in there )

I thought a degree was a degree no matter the size but then my brain cant quite wrap its head around how a larger wheel would use the same size/spacing of lines to represent a degree.

Any input welcome, thanks

EDIT: Id like to make a larger degree wheel if possible, doing a search on-line dosent show much. I have plenty of metal and could clearcoat it too last so any suggestions on how to do this would be appreciated.
 
You should be able to make a nice one with AutoCAD or any drafting program...
 
Yes there is.It,s the same formula for degree a dampener.Get your self a piece of aluminum,round of a diameter of 10-12 inches.Find the true center and drill hole for the proper crank bolt being used.Next part is math,if you use a 10 inch diameter plate,the circumference of that plate is 31.416 inches by multiplying by 3.1416.You then divide by 360 degrees,so the 31.416 is divided by 360=0.087,this equals every .087 thousands is 1 degree.you can now figure out where 90,180,270 is.You can make a template for the 0-90 degree and use it 4 times to cover each 1/4.So If you want to do a basic degree wheel this will help,it,s not going to be any where near a wheel done on a cad program,or the ones I do on our CNC machines,but this helps out on a dampener,for timing a motor or for doing the cam timing,mrmopartech
 
360 degrees in all circles no matter the.size of.circle. A dime has 360 degrees and so does a 15 inch wheel. The larger the circle the larger the degrees. So the easier for accuracy.
 
Why couldn't you just use the small degree wheel as you protractor. Make the same size center hole for your new 10" or 12" disk. Use a straight edge to mark it off.
 
Daves69 said:
Why couldn't you just use the small degree wheel as you protractor. Make the same size center hole for your new 10" or 12" disk. Use a straight edge to mark it off.
Click to expand...

Because if you use the small wheel as the starting point, IE "the standard," then the larger one will be no more accurate than the original, possibly less due to errors

AND ON printing them. This may not be "all that accurate," either.......the source drawing may become distorted in whatever photo software it's been "run through," especially if you have to crop the damn thing up and print it on 4 pieces of paper!!!

Summit sells a "real decent" sized wheel, (11" for 20 bucks) and the great thing is, the center hole is a PERFECT fit for Mopar crank bolts. I have one of their kits which is about a hunnerd bucks. Even for the 3 or 4 cams I've been / will be fiddlin' with, it's well worth the cost
 
a dividing head on a bredgeport. you could make a wheel any size. that would as accurate or more, as any you could buy. but would NOT be cheap.
 
OP; what accuracy are you looking for?

The only direct accuracy increase with a good, larger copy will be your ability to read the degree markings better. But the solution is easy.... read on.

If you want 0.1 degree accuracy, then you can set up a vernier scale on the outside of the degree wheel to be able to read 0.1 increments. (But, if the wheel markings are not better than .1 degree accuracy to start with, then this will become false accuracy.) You would be better off starting with a vernier scale and your 7" wheel rather than enlarging, IMO. The vernier scale would be on the outside edge of the degree wheel and fixed to the block. Each vernier marking can be made at 9 degrees apart on the main wheel to be easier to make and to read, and you would read the vernier relative to the 10 degree marks.

Read here for what is a vernier scale and how to read one. This is for real; I measured bearings and such to sub .001" accuracy for years with a vernier caliper. My older eyes have a harder time doing that now!

http://physicspmb.ukzn.ac.za/OnlineExercises/IntroVernier/intro2.html

Edit: BTW if you want a 1/10 degree vernier (as above), then you set up a 10 mark vernier scale with marking separation of 9/10 of the main scale distance. If you want a 1/4 degree vernier, then you set up a 4 mark vernier scale with marking sepration of 3/4 of the main scale distance.
 
Somehow I think prolly adding a vernier scale to a small dia degree wheel is not even up to the "lipstick on a pig" analogy. It might be more like "trying to scrape some of the mud off a pig."

On my 11" the degree markings are just about as wide as the pointer, which amounts to a piece of ?1/8? ?3/32? brass brazing rod. You can read it to "just a bit less" than 1 degree.

The question IS, just how accurate do you NEED? In 10,000 miles, the timing drive is likely to have more than that much stretch.
 
Mrmopartech said:
Yes there is.It,s the same formula for degree a dampener.Get your self a piece of aluminum,round of a diameter of 10-12 inches.Find the true center and drill hole for the proper crank bolt being used.Next part is math,if you use a 10 inch diameter plate,the circumference of that plate is 31.416 inches by multiplying by 3.1416.You then divide by 360 degrees,so the 31.416 is divided by 360=0.087,this equals every .087 thousands is 1 degree.you can now figure out where 90,180,270 is.You can make a template for the 0-90 degree and use it 4 times to cover each 1/4.So If you want to do a basic degree wheel this will help,it,s not going to be any where near a wheel done on a cad program,or the ones I do on our CNC machines,but this helps out on a dampener,for timing a motor or for doing the cam timing,mrmopartech
Click to expand...
This is more in line with something I could prob. figure out, thanks
 
Daves69 said:
Why couldn't you just use the small degree wheel as you protractor. Make the same size center hole for your new 10" or 12" disk. Use a straight edge to mark it off.
Click to expand...

I dont think this would work but I could be wrong
 
moe7404 said:
a dividing head on a bredgeport. you could make a wheel any size. that would as accurate or more, as any you could buy. but would NOT be cheap.
Click to expand...
Might be cheaper too just buy the wheel
 
nm9stheham said:
OP; what accuracy are you looking for?

The only direct accuracy increase with a good, larger copy will be your ability to read the degree markings better. But the solution is easy.... read on.

If you want 0.1 degree accuracy, then you can set up a vernier scale on the outside of the degree wheel to be able to read 0.1 increments. (But, if the wheel markings are not better than .1 degree accuracy to start with, then this will become false accuracy.) You would be better off starting with a vernier scale and your 7" wheel rather than enlarging, IMO. The vernier scale would be on the outside edge of the degree wheel and fixed to the block. Each vernier marking can be made at 9 degrees apart on the main wheel to be easier to make and to read, and you would read the vernier relative to the 10 degree marks.

Read here for what is a vernier scale and how to read one. This is for real; I measured bearings and such to sub .001" accuracy for years with a vernier caliper. My older eyes have a harder time doing that now!

http://physicspmb.ukzn.ac.za/OnlineExercises/IntroVernier/intro2.html

Edit: BTW if you want a 1/10 degree vernier (as above), then you set up a 10 mark vernier scale with marking separation of 9/10 of the main scale distance. If you want a 1/4 degree vernier, then you set up a 4 mark vernier scale with marking sepration of 3/4 of the main scale distance.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I hate the constant reminders that Im getting old, first trick is too bend over or get down on one knee, then look at the lines, squint, readjust, open eyes real wide, adjust and for Gods sake dont move the head a single degree one side or the other.
 
67Dart273 said:
Because if you use the small wheel as the starting point, IE "the standard," then the larger one will be no more accurate than the original, possibly less due to errors

AND ON printing them. This may not be "all that accurate," either.......the source drawing may become distorted in whatever photo software it's been "run through," especially if you have to crop the damn thing up and print it on 4 pieces of paper!!!

Summit sells a "real decent" sized wheel, (11" for 20 bucks) and the great thing is, the center hole is a PERFECT fit for Mopar crank bolts. I have one of their kits which is about a hunnerd bucks. Even for the 3 or 4 cams I've been / will be fiddlin' with, it's well worth the cost
Click to expand...
If you have a product # I would more than likely go this way. Local auto parts stores carry and 11 inch as well, Mr Gasket I think. I am concerned though that since they are so inexpensive maybe they arent all that accurate.

I get what I pay for mindset.
 
Yes, I believe that's the same one in my kit. "IF" it's not accurate, I doubt you could do much better "by hand" without having some errors. three hundred and sixty, LOL, is a LOT of marks to make
 
You could always double check that each degree on the wheel matches the marks on the damper and markers that are on the engine.
 
67Dart273 said:
Somehow I think prolly adding a vernier scale to a small dia degree wheel is not even up to the "lipstick on a pig" analogy. It might be more like "trying to scrape some of the mud off a pig."

On my 11" the degree markings are just about as wide as the pointer, which amounts to a piece of ?1/8? ?3/32? brass brazing rod. You can read it to "just a bit less" than 1 degree.

The question IS, just how accurate do you NEED? In 10,000 miles, the timing drive is likely to have more than that much stretch.
Click to expand...
Right, you CAN get the measuring accuracy but indeed, how can you use it? I don't recall any cam buttons in 0.1 degree increments.... hence my question to the OP on how much he wanted....

But I'll bet that if you made a vernier scale to match up with a commercial wheel, they would sell like hotcakes..... 'I timed my cam to the tenth of a degree and it sure feels stronger now!"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top