how to question

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spstacman said:
how do you modify a normal 318 manifold to fit a 1965 273
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you have to hog out the holes and get them spot faced . Some have used washers. Either way you need to get the correct angle. You are better off to track down a proper '65 manifold either stock or after market.
 
Better still is to replace those POS heads with some later, better ones.
 
cudamark said:
Better still is to replace those POS heads with some later, better ones.
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Another intelligent answer, spend more money!

What 65Vart said. Better off tracking down a intake to fit easy.

Otherwise, what he said again. Hog out the bolt hole to the new angle, spot face weld the rest shut or use a washer to cover the hole up.

The issue of oil coming up through the bolt hole is very possible. You can stop it with lots of telfon tape. Fill the hole with sealent. Then theres the bolts new angle, the head will not sit flush with the intake. Some brain said to me once, have wedges made so it sits right. Perhaps he never tried to have that done, perhaps he knew somebody and had it done easy.
 
65Vart said:
my little heads work good for the street. I have 10.5 /1 s. They work pretty good nothing wrong with them.
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You must have better gasoline that we do here in SoCal. With 10.5 C/R it would be pinging like crazy.....then crack city. I've magged dozens of those 315 castings and it's rare to find one that isn't cracked.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Another intelligent answer, spend more money!

What 65Vart said. Better off tracking down a intake to fit easy.

Otherwise, what he said again. Hog out the bolt hole to the new angle, spot face weld the rest shut or use a washer to cover the hole up.

The issue of oil coming up through the bolt hole is very possible. You can stop it with lots of telfon tape. Fill the hole with sealent. Then theres the bolts new angle, the head will not sit flush with the intake. Some brain said to me once, have wedges made so it sits right. Perhaps he never tried to have that done, perhaps he knew somebody and had it done easy.
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I'd rather spend a little more, than to mickey mouse something. I'm not even sure it would cost much more to use a later setup. What does a '64-5 only 273 only 4bbl intake cost?? $125? 150? I've seen the '68-up intakes for as little as $50.00 for some models. With the difference, you could get a later set of heads along with the manifold and be able to use the easier to find intake gaskets. But hey, if your engine is working fine and you just want to add a 4bbl intake, go for it....hog out the holes, use a tube of RTV to seal it, and boogie on down the road. It's just not the choice I would make, that's all.
Been there, done that, and wasn't happy with the results.
Mark
 
Same issue w/ my '65 273. I bought a later Edelbrock manifold and counter-sank the holes so flat head allen screws would sit OK (conical bottom) and slightly filed the bottom of the holes for screw clearance. I haven't run it yet to see if any leaks. Just a test fit, but seems to bolt tight enough. My main concern is sealing the water. The biggest problem is that on some holes the riser blocked my drill a bit. I initally tried an end mill in a hand drill, but it jumped around. With the countersink (or even a large twist bit), lean on the outer side of each hole.

Good info 340mopar on the self-aligning washers. I couldn't find them in McMaster-Carr and other places. Problem is $56 (if pairs) and not sure they can lean enough for the ~29 deg difference. Re oil leaks, in theory your crankcase should have a slight vacuum from the PCV. If a lot of ring blow-by, you will have leaks many places. I got some O-rings for the holes to help a bit.

I saw one aluminum manifold on ebay last year that claimed to be for 64-65, after I bought mine. I recall it sold for ~$150. You occasionally see the original iron 4-barrel manifolds, but there never were many cars with those.
 
BillGrissom said:
Same issue w/ my '65 273. I bought a later Edelbrock manifold and counter-sank the holes so flat head allen screws would sit OK (conical bottom) and slightly filed the bottom of the holes for screw clearance. I haven't run it yet to see if any leaks. Just a test fit, but seems to bolt tight enough. My main concern is sealing the water. The biggest problem is that on some holes the riser blocked my drill a bit. I initally tried an end mill in a hand drill, but it jumped around. With the countersink (or even a large twist bit), lean on the outer side of each hole.

Good info 340mopar on the self-aligning washers. I couldn't find them in McMaster-Carr and other places. Problem is $56 (if pairs) and not sure they can lean enough for the ~29 deg difference. Re oil leaks, in theory your crankcase should have a slight vacuum from the PCV. If a lot of ring blow-by, you will have leaks many places. I got some O-rings for the holes to help a bit.

I saw one aluminum manifold on ebay last year that claimed to be for 64-65, after I bought mine. I recall it sold for ~$150. You occasionally see the original iron 4-barrel manifolds, but there never were many cars with those.
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I scored an Eddy D4B (for 64-65 heads only) off Ebay for 150$. They are out there.
 
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