How to run Heater after A/C deleted

[daves66valiant]

1968 Dart factory A/C car. I removed the AC unit and lines but still have the original dash unit with push button vacuum controls.

Is there a simple way to still control the heater flaps without the funky vacuum canister that was originally on the fender apron? I circled it in red. What if I just hook the dash unit to an available intake manifold vacuum port? I’ve only had experience with non ac cars that were cable operated.

Thank you

 

[RedFish]

What you circled is a hot water cut off valve. Without it you always have hot water passing through the heater core just like the non a/c builds. Plug those 2 vacuum lines that attached to the valve and delete the valve if you want. You do still need manifold vacuum supplied to the blend door controller. Some owners place a hand operated ball gate valve there for summer months.

 

[daves66valiant]

Thanks Red. I remember there were s bunch of vacuum hoses around that thing and knew one had to go to the door controller.

I deleted the valve already so I’ll plug those.

Wonder if anyone has pictures of their setup.

 

[RedFish]

Thanks Red. I remember there were s bunch of vacuum hoses around that thing and knew one had to go to the door controller.

I deleted the valve already so I’ll plug those.

Wonder if anyone has pictures of their setup.

Should have been 3 hoes total related to a/c. Drawing shows red stripe and white stripe to the water valve servo. Whatever remains is manifold vacuum supply with or without a reservoir Teed in. If blend door positions change under hard acceleration/low vacuum condition, you will need a reservoir.

 

[daves66valiant]

Should have been 3 hoes total related to a/c. Drawing shows red stripe and white stripe to the water valve servo. Whatever remains is manifold vacuum supply with or without a reservoir Teed in. If blend door positions change under hard acceleration/low vacuum condition, you will need a reservoir.

Yep there were three. Thanks for the help. Gotta head to the store for a proper manifold vacuum fitting.

 

[1969VADart]

I kept the stock setup with the water valve. Maintained the vacuum connections so that the controls to the heater box would still work the way they are supposed to. I didn't add an extra valve and just cleaned up the hose routing. That seemed to work just fine.

 

[qkcuda]

Same here

 

[lemondana]

You guys must all like to sweat when you're out cruising.

 

[qkcuda]

I get no heat when the controls are in the off position.

 

[DartGTDan]

Same here, just removed the compressor, condenser, drier, etc... I left the vacuum lines and water valve connected. I need the heat and defrost for early spring & late fall cruising. Summer time is made for "hot" rod cruising!

 

[RedFish]

Pic above is a later model. The roundish black plastic thingy near the valve is the vacuum reservoir. Notice that this model has much smaller vacuum servo on the water valve with only one hose attached.
I've often wondered if the big *** 2 hose servo on earlier valve didn't also serve as a reservoir of sorts. Since I don't know, that's why I stated above that deleting that valve and servo may bring about the need for a reservoir.
If the blend door positions do change under low vacuum conditions, it is just a momentary nuisance.

 

[daves66valiant]

I would love to keep things minimal without a lot of extraneous clutter. But if I need the water valve assembly I’ll use it. I’ve already cleaned it up and polished it just in case. In the meantime I’ll try blocking the red and white lines and hook up the door blender hose to vacuum.

I really don’t need the heater for warmth. Mostly want it if I need to defrost the windows for whatever reason. Or if the wifey is cold.