How to start car with no key?

-
A

Andre68

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
572
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego
My brother just bought a 64 barracuda. It did not come with keys :/ but we want to try and get that 273 to turn on. How can I get this car to crank with no key? I've seen this tool that hooks up to the car battery and at a press of the button it begins to crank the car. What is it called? Someone told me I can start it with a screwdriver? I read that it sparks a lot if done that way?

Thanks
 
you need to run a hotwire to the distributor and you can use a screwdriver between the starter relay terminals. shouldn't spark at all if you do it right. get the screwdriver on and off the terminals fast, don't let it be on partially, either on the terminals all the way or off all the way and it wont spark.
 
yellowdart72 said:
you need to run a hotwire to the distributor and you can use a screwdriver between the starter relay terminals. shouldn't spark at all if you do it right. get the screwdriver on and off the terminals fast, don't let it be on partially, either on the terminals all the way or off all the way and it wont spark.
Click to expand...

Battery + to Coil +

Then the screwdriver, or tire iron, or horse shoe, or any number of other things. :)

Just be sure the thing isn't in gear and has the park brake set.
 
TrailBeast said:
Battery + to Coil +



Just be sure the thing isn't in gear and has the park brake set.
Click to expand...



excellent point!!! safety first. By doing this you are bypassing any neutral safety switch that may be in place so make sure its in park or neutral.
 
Just go buy a keyed switch and unplug the old on and start it up. Or you can take the switch out, pull out the old key cyl. and replace it with a new key and cyl.
 
Start with a key...between the starter relay lugs! 12V hot to coil is not the best for the points but itll get it started and running and driving.
 
pishta said:
Start with a key...between the starter relay lugs! 12V hot to coil is not the best for the points but itll get it started and running and driving.
Click to expand...

If it don't start right up, he won't be holdin onto that key very long.
 
What the guys above are getting at is that "it depends" on how long you're going to run the engine. "Hot"wiring direct to the coil is hard on the coil and points if you are going to run it for long

Look for the coil resistor, which is a white ceramic resistor mounted probably on the firewall

Determine which end of the resistor goes to the coil. This is easy to do:

Unhook either wire from the resistor.

Hook a test lamp to the coil + terminal. This is the terminal OPPOSITE from the distributor primary wire

Hook your jumper wire from the disconnected ballast resistor POST to the starter relay "big stud" (which is the battery).

Does the test lamp light?

If not, reconnect that ballast resistor wire, unhook the opposite wire, and try this again.

When you are done, you will have the resistor "in the circuit" to the coil and this will protect the coil and points, and will not burn them out.
 
67Dart273 said:
What the guys above are getting at is that "it depends" on how long you're going to run the engine. "Hot"wiring direct to the coil is hard on the coil and points if you are going to run it for long

Look for the coil resistor, which is a white ceramic resistor mounted probably on the firewall

Determine which end of the resistor goes to the coil. This is easy to do:

Unhook either wire from the resistor.

Hook a test lamp to the coil + terminal. This is the terminal OPPOSITE from the distributor primary wire

Hook your jumper wire from the disconnected ballast resistor POST to the starter relay "big stud" (which is the battery).

Does the test lamp light?

If not, reconnect that ballast resistor wire, unhook the opposite wire, and try this again.

When you are done, you will have the resistor "in the circuit" to the coil and this will protect the coil and points, and will not burn them out.
Click to expand...

Even going thru the resistor will not protect the coil and point if the points are closed. It's no different than leaving the ignition on when the car is not running. If the points are open, nothing bad will happen, if the points are closed, then you are at risk of burning out the coil and the points.

I agree, the purpose of the resistor is to reduce wear on the points, and it should be used, but power should only on the ignition ciruit if the car is starting, or running.
 
My old Vauxhall came with a push button to start the car under the hood...
 
Mashman said:
Even going thru the resistor will not protect the coil and point if the points are closed. It's no different than leaving the ignition on when the car is not running.
Click to expand...

And so your "point" is what, exactly? Did anyone suggest, or condone leaving power to the ignition?
 
you can have a safety meeting, create a safety committee, develop a plan of action, submit it to the government for discussion...
or
I would:
Block your wheels,Fill your float bowls, power up your coil in a way that can be terminated quickly and cross the selonoid
Video it running and post back here.
 
Is this a how to hot wire a car thread? :p Sounds totally legit.....
 
Alright well here's what happened! Don't know if I should start a new thread on the subject seeing it's a different question...

The car is a 1964 barracuda, 273 and push button auto. It's all there and in good condition. This thing to me, was a barn find. We picked it up in the mountain area of San Diego in this guys barn for $1,100. While we where there, the guy put in a battery and did the screwdriver trick and the car began to crank, of course it had no gas (fuel pump had a hose going to no where, probably for a bucket of gas. -I believe someone already tried to start it). He told us it wasn't getting any spark.

So I thought cool, at least it cranks, that's half the battle for me!
We got it home put new plugs in, new ignition coil, points and condenser, oil change, of course some marvel mystery to the cylinders and some in the oil.

The cap on the dizzy and rotor seemed new, so did the plug wires. Like I said. I feel like someone has been to where we are at and gave up.
So we just reused those.

We tried cranking it with some gas down the carb, did nothing. I'm not sure 100% if this is how you check but I pulled off cylinder #1 spark plug wire and layed it on top of the manifold, cranked, got 1 tiny spark, then nothing. Okay tried cylinder #2 spark plug wire, again nothing. Took off cap and cranked, saw no spark at points. Removed ignition cool cable from cap and cranked, saw no spark.

I put a test light to the positive side coil, got a nice light, negative side got nothing. Put light to ballast resistor to coil side and got a dim light, the other side had a bright light.

I don't know what's wrong. As for as I can tell I am getting no spark. Unless I didn't check right. Any ideas?
 
67Dart273 said:
And so your "point" is what, exactly? Did anyone suggest, or condone leaving power to the ignition?
Click to expand...

Your post was very explicit in explaining how to correctly include the resistor in the ignition circuit. The resistor plays an important part in reducing wear on the points, and should be used whenever the engine running.

Since you went to such great detail in explaining how to include the resistor, and why it's important, I concluded you came to the same conclusion as me when reading the OP - the OP has limited understanding of how a points ignition system works.

I'm sure you know exactly how a points system works, but I wasn't sure about the OP. My post was not directed towards you, it was towards the OP. I was trying to add a little bit to your post, which is why I quoted it in mine. I didn't want the OP to finish following your instructions, and then decide to go eat lunch, and come back and find out the car won't start. If a person is not familiar with a points ignition, they typically don't know that you should never leave the ignition turned on. I just wanted the OP to understand that, and why.
 
Well I guess I was checking for spark the wrong way, we this time pulled a plug with wire attached, cranked it and got spark. Except now it started to crank slower and slower and then just clicks. Funny that a battery could die with in about 30 min-45min of trying to get this thing to crank
 
If you got your spark figured awesome. Remember with points if you are not seeing a spark at the gap make sure your condenser wire isn't too close to the back of the points and "stealing the spark" there... Good luck, get a charge on that battery and let us know.

Joe
 
h20loo said:
you can have a safety meeting, create a safety committee, develop a plan of action, submit it to the government for discussion...
Or
i would:
Block your wheels,fill your float bowls, power up your coil in a way that can be terminated quickly and cross the selonoid
video it running and post back here.
Click to expand...

Love it. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top