rapidtransitric
LX/LC platform a body swap pioneer
you'll have to notch the passenger side rail/ apron for alternator clearance
Hughesy's 1973 Valiant Charger - New Hemi 5.7 swap
- Thread starter Boony405hp
- Start date
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rapidtransitric
LX/LC platform a body swap pioneer
check this link out it has a few pictures of the right rail notch. you may have to center the engine in the bay
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=121595&highlight=notch+frame+rail
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=121595&highlight=notch+frame+rail
rapidtransitric
LX/LC platform a body swap pioneer
tin you might have something there. i thought i read that somewhere quite awhile ago
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
You are correct Tin, my car is right hand drive. Our steering box is actually mounted to the chassis rail not the k-frame like the American ones. The engines were never offset to the passenger side like yours are. So it makes it very tight on our drivers side. I am going to cut off the mounting points on the k-frame and center the engine. This should give me more clearance on the drivers side for steering and headers. It will also center the weight of the engine and help with fitting the transmission in.
The TTI mounts can only really be mounted to the block one way ie. left on the left, right on the right.
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
Here are a few updates rolled in to one for you guys:
Awaiting on some new engine insulators from the US, going to center the engine and have recently bought a rack and pinion k-frame but with no mounts as I would have to go custom anyway.
The car is really starting to look like a project now, also recently moved out so my old room has become the latest parts shed.
A bit of rust in the lower sill part of the guard, and a little bit on the lip, a new section of steel and a little welding will do the trick.
I pulled out the front windscreen today and no rust in the channels at all which is a plus and the plenum feels great. The previous owner had coated the doors, behind the kick panels, the plenum, boot all with Tectal so I think it has really helped protect it from the weather and conditions over the years. I've pretty much stripped all of the inside out now, as I mentioned I pulled the front window out today as well as the dash assembly and steering column. Hopefully the rack and insulators will arrive this week and I can start getting into the 'interesting' stuff. I know these pics aren't very interesting but I'll put them up all the same for the 'photo hungry'.
6 cylinder k-frame with brackets removed
Mounts just sitting on the k-frame, rack bolted up. Neet to bolt these to the engine then find position and fit, a few things to consider before mounting this are, sump clearance (most likely modify the sump), gearbox shifter position and a few clearance issues with accessories. Bit of measuring and research before I can mount it.
New blingin door handles
Mounted in the car
New polyloc mounts are about 5mm thicker
Mocked up clearance I'm after either side, normally the drivers side you have about a pinky's width between the head screw studs and the inner fender.
The main clearance issue of the sump is the back part, not the part with the pickup which I originally thought, I'll just raise this part - cut-reweld, reinstate the capacity somewhere else, shouldn't be too big of a drama.
I'm also considering modifying the left hand side TTI mount and moving it back to use the OEM engine mount holes, and free up the ones that the A/C compressor use to avoid modifying making a bracket up for the AC pump like Gdemon's car. Then on the right hand side mount I think I will leave it as is and still run the oil filter relocat. kit but grind off that little bump on the engine block that fowls the insulator, I see this bump on the engine serving no purpose and can't see why It can't be grinded off.
Mounted in the car
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
Mounted in the car
They don't sell the fin's (thats what I call them) that you bolt your rack to. It's a k-member exchange basis. I assume it wouldn't be too difficult to replicate though but it's something you'd want to make spot on for your suspension to remain in check.
Michaeluser
Well-Known Member
Mounted in the car
They don't sell the fin's (thats what I call them) that you bolt your rack to. It's a k-member exchange basis. I assume it wouldn't be too difficult to replicate though but it's something you'd want to make spot on for your suspension to remain in check.
The rack-n-pinion is it an OE part? Are the K members available as well. I can't imagine that not working on a US car. Hmmm.
Thanks
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
Michaeluser
Well-Known Member
Great thanks. I am going to look into it. There's a local guy that has three Aussie Chargers with HEMI Six.
SixSpeedSS
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Really cool build. I love the Australian Chargers. Looks like you got another there too...1971 or 1972?
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
kool build cant wait to see more,,,,
brewil
Well-Known Member
What size wheels did you have on it mate?? I had 16" Torq Thrusts but now that the car is basically a shell and I'm rebuilding it completely thought of getting 17"
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
They are 17" Torq Thrust 2's.
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
Long time since an update, I am going to start doing some documentary videos of the rebuild. I will also try add info and pics to the forum though.
This one is of the transmission tunnel crossmember
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-BdVB0M3k0&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
This one is of the transmission tunnel crossmember
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-BdVB0M3k0&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
1972 VH R/T Charger
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
Standard 300mm rear discs on the Falcon rear end.
Falcon rear end - had to have about 40mm removed to match the standard rear end width.
First time the car had got a glimpse of natural light in almost 2 years.
Modified a/c compressor mount
Custom made engine mounts - modified the originals.
Rough mock up of what the final transmission mount looked like. I ended up cutting the lower part to half the width shown here to gain some ground clearance.
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
So it has been a while since an update. I will try summarise what has been done/changed:
Installed a whole new transmission tunnel out of a VY Holden Commodore (allows much better clearance, and looks better) also allows me to run a console from this car
Falcon diff installed
Front brakes upgraded to 322x28 off a Ford Territory or FG Falcon XR6 Turbo/XR8. Rotor part #2107. Ordered a caliper bracket online.
New tunnel allowed me to raise my driveline angle up. Was about -5/6 down, now up to a more reasonable -3/-4.
Gearbox crossmember completed
Changed the seats from Recaro's to Holden Commodore VE SS ute (preferred the rails I had for these than the standard valiant ones, and these seats are more practical than the recaro's for longer drives)
Bought a Champion radiator off ebay (Suit hemi 5.7/6.1) Outlets are reversed to what they should be but just need to order hoses to suit
Bought thermo fans off an AU falcon, almost a perfect bolt up job, just a few little minor mods to fit.
New seats
New 322x28 rotors, an upgrade over the factory 282x24.
Caliper brackets
Thermo fans and Champion radiator (Got to love the way it's mounted in with the wire brush)
I am currently working on a brake booster setup, using an FG Ford Falcon unit. The biggest issue at the moment is hood clearance (master cylinder reservoir is hitting the bracing on the bonnet). I have had to cut a section out of the inner guard to give me some clearance for the booster to the valve cover. My solutions at this stage are to either:
a) Push the booster further across to try avoid the bracing of the underbonnet
b) Modify the under bonnet bracing (not overly keen on that)
c) Run remote reservoirs
d) Find a reservoir with the same connections and spacing but with a lower height.
Remote style reservoir (off a Ferrari 355)
Offset booster bracket (factory valiant)
Underbracing on the bonnet which would need to be removed (not my car in the picture)
I will also have to create an offset booster bracket (this is standard on all v8 valiant chargers) however I will need more offset than standard so I am building one from scratch.
Moparmal's setup that he had made up (Val Charger as well)
Installed a whole new transmission tunnel out of a VY Holden Commodore (allows much better clearance, and looks better) also allows me to run a console from this car
Falcon diff installed
Front brakes upgraded to 322x28 off a Ford Territory or FG Falcon XR6 Turbo/XR8. Rotor part #2107. Ordered a caliper bracket online.
New tunnel allowed me to raise my driveline angle up. Was about -5/6 down, now up to a more reasonable -3/-4.
Gearbox crossmember completed
Changed the seats from Recaro's to Holden Commodore VE SS ute (preferred the rails I had for these than the standard valiant ones, and these seats are more practical than the recaro's for longer drives)
Bought a Champion radiator off ebay (Suit hemi 5.7/6.1) Outlets are reversed to what they should be but just need to order hoses to suit
Bought thermo fans off an AU falcon, almost a perfect bolt up job, just a few little minor mods to fit.
New seats
New 322x28 rotors, an upgrade over the factory 282x24.
Caliper brackets
Thermo fans and Champion radiator (Got to love the way it's mounted in with the wire brush)
I am currently working on a brake booster setup, using an FG Ford Falcon unit. The biggest issue at the moment is hood clearance (master cylinder reservoir is hitting the bracing on the bonnet). I have had to cut a section out of the inner guard to give me some clearance for the booster to the valve cover. My solutions at this stage are to either:
a) Push the booster further across to try avoid the bracing of the underbonnet
b) Modify the under bonnet bracing (not overly keen on that)
c) Run remote reservoirs
d) Find a reservoir with the same connections and spacing but with a lower height.
Remote style reservoir (off a Ferrari 355)
Offset booster bracket (factory valiant)
Underbracing on the bonnet which would need to be removed (not my car in the picture)
I will also have to create an offset booster bracket (this is standard on all v8 valiant chargers) however I will need more offset than standard so I am building one from scratch.
Moparmal's setup that he had made up (Val Charger as well)
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
Ok so it's just under a year since my last update, oops. So there is a lot of progress since then, I'm almost up and running *fingers crossed* so I'll try get you up to speed over the next few days.......
Brake Booster Cutout to the inner guard to accomodate the new booster setup
The final setup is from a VE Holden Commodore, as well as a Wilwood brake proportioning valve installed. While I was at it I had brand new hardlines and braided front and rear lines installed. I paid someone to do this as I don't have a good flaring tool and it was something I could see me cracking the sh1ts with in the end and not being 100% happy with the result, so I bit the bullet and forked over some cash to a professional. I also added a front brace to make it super rigid and no flex when the brake pedal is applied.
Brake Booster Cutout to the inner guard to accomodate the new booster setup
The final setup is from a VE Holden Commodore, as well as a Wilwood brake proportioning valve installed. While I was at it I had brand new hardlines and braided front and rear lines installed. I paid someone to do this as I don't have a good flaring tool and it was something I could see me cracking the sh1ts with in the end and not being 100% happy with the result, so I bit the bullet and forked over some cash to a professional. I also added a front brace to make it super rigid and no flex when the brake pedal is applied.
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
Transmission and clutch install, all factory challenger gear, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, slave.
I used the following items:
ARP Flywheel bolts (ARP-147-2801)
ARP Pressure plate bolts (ARP-147-2201)
McLeod Racing clutch alignment tool (105313-M)
I was getting this far before the transmission felt like it was getting stuck. I thought perhaps it was the twin clutch plate being mis-aligned, but I checked it with the alignment tool and it went in no problem. What it turned out to be was the slightest bit of dirt and gunk caught in the splines of the input shaft, after running a wire wheel over it and thoroughly cleaning, it made a big difference.
Trans to bell housing brackets as well as a custom dust shield as it did not come with the transmission
PWR power steering cooler installed and vintage air condenser
I used the following items:
ARP Flywheel bolts (ARP-147-2801)
ARP Pressure plate bolts (ARP-147-2201)
McLeod Racing clutch alignment tool (105313-M)
I was getting this far before the transmission felt like it was getting stuck. I thought perhaps it was the twin clutch plate being mis-aligned, but I checked it with the alignment tool and it went in no problem. What it turned out to be was the slightest bit of dirt and gunk caught in the splines of the input shaft, after running a wire wheel over it and thoroughly cleaning, it made a big difference.
Trans to bell housing brackets as well as a custom dust shield as it did not come with the transmission
PWR power steering cooler installed and vintage air condenser
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
Before repainting guards after a ton of degreaser, wax and grease remover and wire wheel work. Amazing how much dirt and grime gets caked on to those guards in 40+ years. Too nice to drive now? HA I think not!
Repainted inner guards with new rotors and calipers. The front brakes are a new hub assembly and a Ford Territory (SUV). 322x32 with a twin piston PBR Caliper. Using DBA T3 Rotors with Ferrodo Formula Pads. You can also see the new Hotchkis tuned shocks by Fox, looking forward to testing these out!
The T3's have heat bands to give you an indication of what temps they are running at (bit of wank factor if you ask me) I purchased them for their better material construction as I plan on doing a fair bit of track based circuit work when it's finished. This is probably the best local option upgrade value for money before upgrading to something like Brembo, AP racing etc calipers which I'm not prepared to outlay. My sole intention was to buy locally made parts so I could go to any local parts shop and get pads, parts, rotors anywhere, anytime.
Rear discs are from a mid 90's EL Ford Falcon, They are a 299 x 16mm I would have liked to used the bigger vented rear rotors from the territory but I'd need to change the bolt pattern of the diff to suit the backing plates to suit those rotors, this may happen down the track.
Repainted inner guards with new rotors and calipers. The front brakes are a new hub assembly and a Ford Territory (SUV). 322x32 with a twin piston PBR Caliper. Using DBA T3 Rotors with Ferrodo Formula Pads. You can also see the new Hotchkis tuned shocks by Fox, looking forward to testing these out!
The T3's have heat bands to give you an indication of what temps they are running at (bit of wank factor if you ask me) I purchased them for their better material construction as I plan on doing a fair bit of track based circuit work when it's finished. This is probably the best local option upgrade value for money before upgrading to something like Brembo, AP racing etc calipers which I'm not prepared to outlay. My sole intention was to buy locally made parts so I could go to any local parts shop and get pads, parts, rotors anywhere, anytime.
Rear discs are from a mid 90's EL Ford Falcon, They are a 299 x 16mm I would have liked to used the bigger vented rear rotors from the territory but I'd need to change the bolt pattern of the diff to suit the backing plates to suit those rotors, this may happen down the track.
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
The Fuel Tank and pump install. I used the Tanks Inc setup PA-4 Setup which is 250L/hour as well as purchasing the pre drilled and bent/welded drop in recess section which allows you to run your fuel lines so they don't sit hard up against your trunk floor.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...duct_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm
I had to slightly modify the setup and make my own brackets (my own fault) as to the location I put the welded in recess in. I think without it the setup was sitting high on the ribs in the tank and I wanted to try have it as low as possible to get every bit of fuel possible. Probably not required but it's done now.
Access Panel
I then welded on an extra section so the panel sits over the top of the cut out section. I drilled some holes through both panels and then welded some nuts underneath the trunk floor and bolts up with some phillips head bolts. I also added a thin foam strip around the edge to help with the sealing.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...duct_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm
I had to slightly modify the setup and make my own brackets (my own fault) as to the location I put the welded in recess in. I think without it the setup was sitting high on the ribs in the tank and I wanted to try have it as low as possible to get every bit of fuel possible. Probably not required but it's done now.
Access Panel
I then welded on an extra section so the panel sits over the top of the cut out section. I drilled some holes through both panels and then welded some nuts underneath the trunk floor and bolts up with some phillips head bolts. I also added a thin foam strip around the edge to help with the sealing.
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
AC compressor roughly installed. Still need to run lines and securely mount it.
Boony405hp
Well-Known Member
New Mildon pickup installed. Part number #18331 as well as the associated gasket and bolts as I have read the factory bolts are too long, never tried myself. You will need a new stud to mount the pick up tube to, a new nut to secure it and bolt as these are TTY and are designed as a one use only item. You can order these from any mopar dealer. I will try dig up all the exact part numbers but moparmal's thread which is 'stickied' in the New Hemi section covers all of this.
Copied from Mal's thread: Have a read if you are doing this conversion, its very thorough:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=207860
Milodon parts:
Sump - MIL31000,
Pick up - MIL18331
Oil Pan bolts - MIL-85025
http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-6.1chrys.asp
Mopar parts:
Oil Pick up support stud - 6506333-AA
Oil Stud Nut - # 6502756
Bearing Cap Bolt - 06506272AA
Before and after shots of the modded milodon sump to accommodate the rack and pinion power steering rack
Lowering the body over engine
If only the front nose could ever see the sky like this under her own power!
Copied from Mal's thread: Have a read if you are doing this conversion, its very thorough:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=207860
Milodon parts:
Sump - MIL31000,
Pick up - MIL18331
Oil Pan bolts - MIL-85025
http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-6.1chrys.asp
Mopar parts:
Oil Pick up support stud - 6506333-AA
Oil Stud Nut - # 6502756
Bearing Cap Bolt - 06506272AA
Before and after shots of the modded milodon sump to accommodate the rack and pinion power steering rack
Lowering the body over engine
If only the front nose could ever see the sky like this under her own power!
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