I could really use some help right about now.

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340Dust-her

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I can't seem to find motor mounts that fit my application. I went through many parts distribution center through my friends shop and always gettting something which dosent match. It's a 1971 duster with a 340 engine from a 68' barricuda. The mount is so flat that the driver side header is hitting the steering column. We tried elevating the front end of the engine and it gave it just enough clearance. The rubber mount looks like an "ice cream" sandwhich if it helps any. We tried using washers, but the nut wont catch the thread on the mount. If you need an idea it looks something like this, but this is a solid piece from summit. Anyone know where I can get a rubber one?
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...925130+4294840100+4294839050+115&autoview=sku

0523082012a[1].jpg
 
You have the correct style motor mount for early small block. Later models used a spool type mount. I've seen those for sale on ebay. Dunno who else carries them. I know they are easily broken. Engine torque will pull the left mount in two.
 
340Dust-her said:
I can't seem to find motor mounts that fit my application. I went through many parts distribution center through my friends shop and always gettting something which dosent match. It's a 1971 duster with a 340 engine from a 68' barricuda. The mount is so flat that the driver side header is hitting the steering column. We tried elevating the front end of the engine and it gave it just enough clearance. The rubber mount looks like an "ice cream" sandwhich if it helps any. We tried using washers, but the nut wont catch the thread on the mount. If you need an idea it looks something like this, but this is a solid piece from summit. Anyone know where I can get a rubber one?
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...925130+4294840100+4294839050+115&autoview=sku
Click to expand...

These guys sell the whole mounts brackets and inserts if you need them
http://www.engine-swaps.com/

But you can get just the biscuit insert from NAPA for like $9.00
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...umber=6021130&Description=Motor+Mount+-+Front
 
Shumacher has them...The Local NAPA etc would have them..The SPOOL Type wouldn't Fit as they are COMPLETLY a different mount so as not to run you down the wrong path..

TRW(Federal Mogul has them)I have a set that I believe I bought from Shumacher YEARS ago and has the two bolts on the Driver side mount Recessed for EXTRA Support.You can ALSO Stretch back out your mounts you have and Weld Bar Stock down each side..This makes them SOLID mounts but you shouldn't have any problems like that.I have done this for YEARS and Years....


SS
 
If you loosen both of the motor mounts from under the car, you should be able to shift the engine a bit and it may give you some more room. If that doesn't do it, get one of the mounts from a late 70s Dodge Truck.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=ANH&MfrPartNumber=2469&PartType=27&PTSet=A

I'm not suggesting this brand, I'm just showing it as a picture. If you go this route, it will lift the engine some under the hood, so you may have clearance issues. You really shouldn't need this mount, though. The stock stuff should fit if they're in good shape, and the engine isn't shifted to the side.

It's hard to tell from that pocture, but that mount looks like it might be turned 90 degrees from correct.
 
The picture is taken from the front end right before the K frame. This whole design is really odd. They mounted the engine mounts up front and the rear is only supported by the transmission mount. As mentioned before, when we loosened the mountingt bolts and lifted the engine about an inch, it cleared just about everywhere. The schumacher looks great and it'd probably help, but my budget is just about tanked in putting this thing together. I'm not trying to be cheap, but I was looking for a somewhat reasonable fix. Should I just purchase the solid motor mounts that i posted on the first thread?
 
If you're looking for the same type mount you have pictured thats rubber and thicker try one for a mid 80's truck with a 360. But I will warn you the rubber mounts won't hold up under torque they will break. Tie the motor down. My son has broken 3 sets of rubber ones in his truck, I keep telling him to tie it down. He won't listen.
 
not that I'm lazy, but do you have a mid 80's truck in mind,lol? Maybe even a part number from some parts store? :D Excuse the laziness.
 
Well you allready said the pocket book is about tanked. We all know about a empty wallet well enough. Do what ya can, when ya can.
Are you running a pumped up engine? (AKA Mo-Power?)
Also, headers are not made to exacting specs.
 
Part Number: 2469
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Vehicle:
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1984 DODGE D150 PICKUP
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Pricing
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Our Price:
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$9.98
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These are from Discount (Advance) Same part number left or right.
 
well that looks like the proper mount. you sure the motor is sitting in there properly? maybe the drivers side is low? is that a new mount there? the rubber looks old. if its old it could be sagging. you can get the magnum mount from schumacher for like $35. all you need is the rubber part.
 
In the first post that's a picture of the supposid original mount. It does seem like its sagging. We loosened the bolt and raised the engine and it needed about a half an inch of height(front end) to clear the headers from the steering column and center link from sitting on the oil pan. Besides there's plenty of space in the firewall by the transmission tunnel. Here in NY all we have are Pep Boys, Autozone and Napa.
 
Make sure you have the correct brackets that bolt to the block for your application. Slant 6 - 273 - 318 brackets are different. Slant 6 k frames are different too. Your headers could also be the problem, cheaper headers don't fit as good, I put a set of Black Jack headers on once that had to be modified to fit.
 
If you need a little more space you can always cut 1/8" thick plates that will cover the entire surface area, drill holes for the studs, put one on each side. That will give you another 1/4". Some people use washers but I personally don't think they have enough surface area to be stable. Good luck. Ron
 
Why are people keep talking about a SPOOL Mount and a Spool Mount Conversion.THIS IS a Standard 1 bolt Mount K-Frame with the Proper Mounts on it.....The RUBBER Isolator just needs to be replaced as it is PAST being worn out...As I suggested before the CHEAP way to fix this is to jack the engine up until it is about 1 inch of spread at the rubber.Then weld 1/2 Bar Stock on the sides of the mounts..Then drop engine down and tighten the nut...


If it gets Too hard for ya holler..I DO have some mounts here that I could send ya already modded(ALL YOU NEED IS THE ISOLATORS)....


For those that are SPECULATING and steering this poor soul down the wrong path you'd best study and be educated on what you are talking about before advising someone else on something you know VERY Little about.......:confused::angry5:


SS
 
Finally Found the anchor mount at some local R&S strauss place. I have to go and pick it up in a bit. Is this common for some to throw in a mount made for a pickup into a K frame A body? I'm assuming It should just bolt on?
 
The pickup mount will just bolt in the same place as the stock mount. It is just thicker, and has the tabs to keep it from pulling completely apart. I used to sell Anchor mounts at the parts store I worked at, and they are garbage. Don't plan on it staying together long. Also, if the original mount is worn a bunch, and that's what's causing the "sag", going to a pickup mount may lift it more than you want. If you have the correct brackets, with the mounts installed correctly, you should not need to lift the engine. Of course, the headers could also be for the incorrect application, or just crappy headers.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I guess this is just a cheap fix for the mean time. The headers are brand new "Summit" Brands. #5 is just laying next to the steering column. It isnt too bad. Thanks again.
 
I Myself would buy the Original Style Mounts(Isolators)IF your mounts you have on the engine are correct they will fit correctly and have no problems.The DIMPLE goes UP and INTO the DIMPLE Hole of the mount.The Mounts will last stock for MOST Stock Style engines.

I am like damnimcooltom I DO NOT like the Truck Isolators..They are JUNK...They come apart VERY easily..

SS
 
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