I grenaded my slant 6

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Charrlie_S said:
That was the problem. The locating tabs on the bearing shell are in different locations, upper and lower. The bearings were either not lined up correctly, or the tab was deforming the bearing shell.
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I used two sets on mine and it assembled fine. Plastigaged good, turns fine. I just used two sets of uppers. Lock tabs were in the same place.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Forged or cast crank? I know forged crank bearing tabs are different, but never looked at cast crank bearings
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It's forged. You have me curious enough now to go back over it. All I have to do is remove the caps.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Forged or cast crank? I know forged crank bearing tabs are different, but never looked at cast crank bearings
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As usual, you're absolutely right. They are different. The upper bearing in the cap places the bearing shell too far forward in the cap. Thanks Charlie. You probably saved my engine. I was told by a member here that the top bearing shells would fit and work. They were wrong. I am in your debt.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's forged. You have me curious enough now to go back over it. All I have to do is remove the caps.
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It's not a big difference. I quit using two sets of bearing, and just put my own groove in the lower shell. When I was using two sets of uppers, I modified the notch in the cap. The Mopar Performance book says to file the tab down on the grooved lower shell, but I never liked doing that. If you left a high spot, it is possible to deform the bearing, and if high enough, have bearing/crank contact. Plus, then you have to do it any time you replace the bearings. When modifying the notch in the cap, it is once, and done.
 
Charrlie_S said:
It's not a big difference. I quit using two sets of bearing, and just put my own groove in the lower shell. When I was using two sets of uppers, I modified the notch in the cap. The Mopar Performance book says to file the tab down on the grooved lower shell, but I never liked doing that. If you left a high spot, it is possible to deform the bearing, and if high enough, have bearing/crank contact. Plus, then you have to do it any time you replace the bearings. When modifying the notch in the cap, it is once, and done.
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I'm just going to run the stock lower bearing shells. It'll be fine I'm sure. Thanks again.
 
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Charrlie_S said:
It's not a big difference. I quit using two sets of bearing, and just put my own groove in the lower shell. When I was using two sets of uppers, I modified the notch in the cap. The Mopar Performance book says to file the tab down on the grooved lower shell, but I never liked doing that. If you left a high spot, it is possible to deform the bearing, and if high enough, have bearing/crank contact. Plus, then you have to do it any time you replace the bearings. When modifying the notch in the cap, it is once, and done.
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It's a big enough difference it was already self chamfering the bearings on the front side. I got it all cleaned up and put the correct lower shells in. Thanks again, Charlie.
 
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chinze57 said:
Well it's been about a half a year since I've been on the forums. I've been busy with college and haven't found time to be doing much with my car since I finished with what I was building this summer. I decided I'd go home and get my dart for the weekend and take it down to Georgia Southern for a game (about 3.5h each way). Checked my fluids before heading out and kept an eye on everything while I was driving, maintained 40 psi of oil pressure the entire time, and was sitting on the cool side of my thermostat. Got about 3 hours into the trip in the middle of nowhere and heard a slight clacking sound for a couple seconds. Looked down at my oil gauge and watched it dip to 30 psi and thought, "holy **** something's about to happen" and then there was a big old boom and smoke coming from the engine bay while going 70 down the interstate.
Got control of the vehicle, safely got it to the side of the road and shut off the car. Looked in the engine bay and there's a big ol' hole in the side of the block and everything's flowing out of it.
I walked behind the car in the emergency lane about 200 feet and found a couple pieces that had come out.
View attachment 1715814487 View attachment 1715814488
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Theres a guy in the Parts Car board giving away a 170 here in georgia. I wanted it, but don't have the space. Look for "64 dart"
 
my question is why would want to run those bearings . how much power do you have on that engine?
im running stock bearings on my /6 , been beating it for 10 000 miles now. I pulled it today and going to fix the oil leak and tera her down to see what its like . 175- 180 psi on all cylinders. running the Clifford intake with twin webers , 9.5 compression . said it should have over 200 hp.
 
67belevdere/225 said:
my question is why would want to run those bearings . how much power do you have on that engine?
im running stock bearings on my /6 , been beating it for 10 000 miles now. I pulled it today and going to fix the oil leak and tera her down to see what its like . 175- 180 psi on all cylinders. running the Clifford intake with twin webers , 9.5 compression . said it should have over 200 hp.
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It probably does. Sounds about like mine. What cam are you runnin?
 
the cam it came with is advertised @ 268. I bought a good used Slant engine and came with a foregone cam @270 so I tried it , I didn't notice any power gains , and also a rebuilt head and headers came wit a whole bunch a goodies was 800 canadian so had to buy it , I have 3 forged crank model and one cast
I might turbo one in my spare time , but I have no spare time , too busy restoring and repairing other peoples cars , so basically I get 1 week a year to work on my Belve
 
67belevdere/225 said:
the cam it came with is advertised @ 268. I bought a good used Slant engine and came with a foregone cam @270 so I tried it , I didn't notice any power gains , and also a rebuilt head and headers came wit a whole bunch a goodies was 800 canadian so had to buy it , I have 3 forged crank model and one cast
I might turbo one in my spare time , but I have no spare time , too busy restoring and repairing other peoples cars , so basically I get 1 week a year to work on my Belve
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Very cool. mine has similar cylinder pressure....but with a much larger cam. Mine is 175-180 with a custum Oregon grind. .465 and 320 advertised duration with 250 @.050 on a 108. My next build has one a little bigger. It responds surprisingly well.
 
nice im planning on going bigger my self, im running a gm overdrive, so have 3.90 gears in my rear.
have the wilcap adapter , its not perfect I had to sort it out and still do the adapter was not good. so im working on that and among other things....
 
67belevdere/225 said:
nice im planning on going bigger my self, im running a gm overdrive, so have 3.90 gears in my rear.
have the wilcap adapter , its not perfect I had to sort it out and still do the adapter was not good. so im working on that and among other things....
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I'm gettin ready to do a world class T5 and ford 9" swap in Vixen. Although she's gonna be down awhile, I'm still pretty stoked about it. I'm not gonna put her down though, until I have all the parts, because the whole point is to keep her runnin and drivin.
 
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