I just bought a 383 w/727 trans for my Dart

[flyboy01]

Ok, it official, as of 8:00 pm, I now own a 383 w/727 trans. I paid $330.00, it was supposedly pulled from a running 72 Fury. What can I expect as far as compression ratio? I am going to dump a new cam in it and a new intake manifold for now. I still need a set of exhaust manifolds. I found a pair of Shumaker mounts already.

 

[Keith Mopar]

Wasn't the last year for the 383 1971, you may have a 400 if it's from a 72? But then I'm not ppsitive.

 

[flyboy01]

You might be right, it might be a 400, which is ok, since I plan to stroke it.

 

[Keith Mopar]

Yea, I found this on allpar; The 400 engine was introduced in 1972 in standard and high performance versions. The 400, a “B” type engine, is a large (4.34) bore version of the 383B engine.
And also:
The 361-383-400 series is referred to as the 'B' engine and can be identified by the cubic inches stamped on the right side of the block deck adjacent to the distributor

Either a 383 or 400, you have a good start for some serious power, good luck.

 

[HemiPar]

great buy. good luck with the build.
Jeff

 

[Mopower71]

Good deal. Another BB Dart.
You might have to find a new driveshaft also.

 

[flyboy01]

Good deal. Another BB Dart.
You might have to find a new driveshaft also.

Why? I have a SB 727 now.

 

[demon seed]

Sounds like a good buy. Whats the casting number off the side of the block. Also if its a 72 400 the stamping on the block just below the distributor should be H 400. Among other things you'll need the oil pan with the recess or dent on the passenger side (#187 or 699) to make room for the idler arm and steering linkage. Welcome to the dark side.

Terry

 

[daves66valiant]

good deal on that one. now you can take care of that "whimpy" 318. haha. should be fun for sure

 

[dusterdon]

If its a 383 you might have to be careful about piston to valve clearance. A MP .509 cam was too big for my 383. Only had .055 piston to valve. My pistons were .013 in the hole. If you have a 400 p-t-v should be ok due to lower compression. Might even be one of the "good" 400 blocks. Good luck.

don

 

[Longgone]

Like Keithmopar said ,71 was the last year for the 383 ,so if your seller is right on the year, then you`ve got a 400. The 400 is great too, just a bored out 383 essentially. The 383 and 400`s wind like small blocks with their short strokes.A solid cam and lifters is a good upgrade. Good luck finding manifolds, they`ll probably cost you what a set of TTI`s will. I`d be sure you`ve got a good set of front brakes(disc) as well as the .89 torsion bars.The big blocks are heavier and if you`re used to driving a 318 you`ll feel the difference in the handling and braking.They also produce more power, so you`ll have to stop that thing somehow! If your rear end is not a 8.75, then it`d be time for a change too. I guess the thing to remember is that when you change from the sb to the bb you have to adapt the entire car to match. Good luck ,I hope we can help you out as you progress.

 

[flyboy01]

Like Keithmopar said ,71 was the last year for the 383 ,so if your seller is right on the year, then you`ve got a 400. The 400 is great too, just a bored out 383 essentially. The 383 and 400`s wind like small blocks with their short strokes. Not once I put in a 4.15" crank

A solid cam and lifters is a good upgrade.
No, I will stay with a Hyd cam until I stroke it


Good luck finding manifolds, they`ll probably cost you what a set of TTI`s will. Yeah, I have been figuring that out, most likely it will be a set of TTI's

I`d be sure you`ve got a good set of front brakes(disc) as well as the .89 torsion bars.The big blocks are heavier and if you`re used to driving a 318 you`ll feel the difference in the handling and braking.They also produce more power, so you`ll have to stop that thing somehow! I have a fully upgraded front disc / rear drum system with stainless braided power 73+ brakes, and I have never driven the car, it came off the trailer and went up on jackstands the same day, I have always driven high power pickup trucs, so haldling will most likely be better. As far as the torsion bars, I am going to try it with .87 bars, but will probably upgrade to .92 bars later.


If your rear end is not a 8.75, then it`d be time for a change too. Yes, I have an open 741 8 3/4", I will upgrade to a Posi 3.23 later.


I guess the thing to remember is that when you change from the sb to the bb you have to adapt the entire car to match. Good luck ,I hope we can help you out as you progress.

....

 

[gremlin]

Cubic inch is also cast into the block above the starter. Date of block is cast on pass side if block. 71 383 2bbl./low performance is a cast crank motor. 383 HP is a steel crank motor. Some early 400 HP's have steel cranks too.

 

[Keith Mopar]

Flyboy, if you can't afford the TTI's, you could go with the lot cheaper Schumacher headers, which are an excellent fit, and great header.
The TTI's do fit like a glove but engine placement is the big thing as they are very tight fit. I also have them on a 440, so putting them on a B block may give you a little more room to play with.
Well decisions, decisions>

 

[Longgone]

Sounds like you`ve got your ducks in a row.