I know the answer is probably here in the thousands of pages but

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cuda65vpt

cuda65vpt
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What donor cars will work for disk brakes and rear end update on my 66 Barracuda?

I know 73-76 A-bodies will work but I can't find one close by. I just talked to a guy on email who claims he used a 83 5th ave. to "upgrade" his 73 Duster. Does that mean the 5th Ave would work for me too?

Where did all the mopar car ads go from the Colorado craigslists? LOL:banghead:
 
First figure out which bolt pattern you want (I'd go 5x4.5, much much bigger wheel selection). If you go with the BBP, just swap out and junk the 7.25 rear, and get either the 8.25 (it will have BBP already) or the 8.75 rear (you'll need to either order new axles or if you get a B-Body 8.75 from 68-70 you just need to move the spring mounts in 1/2" each side). That said just look under the car and confirm which rear you already have before buy anything because someone might changed it already. One advantage that the 8.25 has over the 8.75 rear is if you go hit the junkyard and hunt down a 96 and older jeep grand Cherokee you can pull the suregrip (limited slip diff), gears, and rear disc brakes and bolt it up to your A body 8.25 rearend no problems!
 
The first thing you must decide is stay small bolt pattern, change to large bolt pattern, or some of both.
 
Definitely want to go big bolt. Right now I have 10" drums in the front and 9" in the rear because my original 7 1/4 started rattling and I replaced it. Will the whole rear out of a Grand Cherokee work with modifications? Welding spring perches etc.

The first thing you must decide is stay small bolt pattern, change to large bolt pattern, or some of both.
 
Definitely want to go big bolt. Right now I have 10" drums in the front and 9" in the rear because my original 7 1/4 started rattling and I replaced it. Will the whole rear out of a Grand Cherokee work with modifications? Welding spring perches etc.
No, they're to wide, you need an A-body 8.25 rear but the stuff I posted earlier will work just fine.
 
Front disc conversion or rear also conversion? I went with Explorer 8.8 with rear disc. Remember that you must change driveshaft also and if going to rear disc about parking brake. Cost for me was about 1800 including cores, aluminum driveshaft, u-joints and spring plates. Also narrowed housing to use same axles, left and right. If staying with 8.25 or 8.75 you must get correct u-bolts and driveshaft to match.
I did end up with 3.27 gears with new Ford motorsports Limited slip and rear discs
 
Mustang 8.8 is centered and uses the same axle on both sides.
 
I just put on a disk brake conversion kit on my '66 Dart. It was a Wilwood for the original 9" front brake setup. Going with the 5 x 4.5" setup and in the process of getting a 8.75 rear end to complement the back 5 x 4.5" and some more beef (probably go with 3.23's).
 
I just want to drive on the street. No racing and the the best gas mileage I can get. I'm thinking along the lines of a T5 tranny and I don't really care if it is limited slip or not. All 4 disks would be nice but not necessary. What did that wildwood kit for the 66 run you?
 
Some great info here for us, 8 1/4 for me one day and do the limited slip or sure grip diff, gears from a Cherokee 96 and older, these jeeps are everywhere, Thank you 1970 Duster :cheers:
 
Some great info here for us, 8 1/4 for me one day and do the limited slip or sure grip diff, gears from a Cherokee 96 and older, these jeeps are everywhere, Thank you 1970 Duster :cheers:
No problem, just remember that you need the A-Body 8.25 Axle and housing with the 2.71 (? or is it 2.94, which one I can't remember off the top of my head) or higher gears. the 2.41 axle won't support something bigger if I'm not mistaken.
 
So does anybody know if the 5th Ave parts will work for me? There is one of those on CL cheap because somebody tried to tune it up and now can't get it running.
I'm going to look at it tomorrow.
 
I've just caught up to speed on this for a B Body after an hiatus.
Your eyes will cross.
You won't have to go throught thousands of pages.
But you will have to make decisions based on what you want to do and can afford.
A spindles or F spindles?


The orginal article Disc O Tech by Ehrenberg
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...wYGICw&usg=AFQjCNEki4imgoDS5g7zWyP_6DdQLfMTOQ




Ehernburg and autoxcuda.
Pay attentention to what they say.


http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2098376&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

The article that must have started the thread above in 2005
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...ping_a_and_b_disc_brake_spindles/viewall.html



And three years on.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...6447&Words=+PlumCrazyChris&topic=&Search=true


Other reading.

http://www.firmfeel.com/tubuca_a.htm

http://arengineering.com/tech/mopar-musclecar-brake-upgrade/
 
I bought a kit to convert my front end on the 65 formula s to disc brakes, It was simple and very good! Also split the brake master cylinder to dual master cylinder for saftey reasons also! It was made for a body cars early units, darts, cudas all the same! I now have front disc rear drum 14 inch rally wheels looking good! It stops well and is very reliable on todays driving with modern cars giving you no road rights! mopar or no car!
 
Found the whole front suspension out of a 73 duster with master cylinder, booster, proportion valve and even has nearly new brakes and rotors for $300. Of course my damn truck broke down on the way to get them and cost me another $530, but I consider it a score anyway.

EDIT: Now I am just looking for a good 8 1/4 rear, out of a 73 duster would be nice, then I would know all my brake parts are from the same car.
 
Congratulations, if I see any in your area I will let you know
Sometimes I have time on my hands
so a 75 model would not work, or 74 or possibly a 72 ?
 
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