I need a little enlightenment on this Holley carb

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Slim Flipmin

Slim Flipmin

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I have a 64 valiant with a 225 and a member sold me this Holley 2 bar carb which I like quite a bit.....but I need a little help with these ports and which ones I need and which ones I don't.......actually any information would be greeted warmly.:banghead:






no idea why pics turned out upside down.........but in the top pic you can see one port. in pic 2 you can see 4 ports, 2 big ones and 2 little ones.....clear as mud?
 

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Top pix: The one port looks like manifold vacuum; probably not used on your '64. Cap it off.

Bottom pix: The large port at the base of the carb is for hooking up the PCV valve line. The small port in the middle is ported vacuum and goes to the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor. I believe the large top port is the bowl vent.....not really anything to hook it to on your '64; I would put a small filter on it and leave it open.

All the above assume your '64 is configured as a '64..... but it looks like you have a capped off EGR valve port so you may need to give us some more info on what you have.
 
This cars history is unknown to me...it came with a single barrel Carter I believe. I don't know what or where the capped EGR valve is. And there is a line coming off of my valve cover...what is that one called? Many thanks!
 
That may be the PCV hose from the PCV valve.... see if there is a plastic or metal cylindrical 'thing' stuck into the valve cover to which that hose attaches. But it could be the breather line..... a pix is needed.... upside down is OK LOL

See that oval shaped plate below the carb in the 1st pix with 2 bolts holding it on? That is the cap-off plate blocking off the EGR port on the manifold. (An EGR valve originally was bolted on there.) So the intake manifold at least is a '73 or '74 or later manifold.
 
Hmmm ok. So, putting the a EGR valve back onto to the manifold an option worth exploring? Can something like that be sourced new?
 
You can get them off of eBay... but I don't know any one who would. See the other thread for further discussion.
 
You know that isn't a 2 barrel Holley, right?

It's a single barrel Holley 1920, imo number 3 on the top 3 slant carbs. If it works fine and you like it, awesome. But they can be problematic, esp. when it's a reman like that one(the sticker on the bowl).

I personally would rebuild the Carter and use that since it's a better carb with the correct ports. Plus I think the choke might be different between the Carter and Holley but not sure.

If the seller represented that as a 2 barrel, send him a 2 line message:

On the first line ask why he did that and on the second line demand your money back. Good luck.
 
And don't put an egr valve on it. You're taking steps backwards with the newer emissions carb and related crap.
 
TylerW said:
You know that isn't a 2 barrel Holley, right?

It's a single barrel Holley 1920, imo number 3 on the top 3 slant carbs. If it works fine and you like it, awesome. But they can be problematic, esp. when it's a reman like that one(the sticker on the bowl).
Click to expand...
1920's can be fine and Carter BBS's can have issues too. Either works if fixed properly.
 
That looks like an early 70's 1920 carb. The pre 70's didn't have a bowl vent
 
true,but the 70-1 had the actual tube and I think 72 was the last year for the 1920 carb
 
No, it wasn't. 1973 was the last model year for Holley 1920 in a car application. Everything in a car got a Holley 1945 from '74 on. Trucks and vans may have used a Holley 1920 a couple years longer in some applications but I doubt it.

The earliest versions of the 1920 with a bowl vent w/tube used a plastic version. The last year or two used a metal tube like my '73 had.
 
nm9stheham said:
1920's can be fine and Carter BBS's can have issues too. Either works if fixed properly.
Click to expand...

That's true but the Carter doesn't have the 1920's inherant flaws such as side hung float, gasksts below fuel level, metering block and the famous Holley ruptured pump diaphragm port
 
This carb is working really well. I am bummed i was sold a 2 barr and didnt get what i thought i was buying. If I had to do it again what 2 barrel carb sho u ld i be looking for?
 
Looks like you already have the after-market EGR block-off plate (~$20). Save that to use on any later intake. You will have to get a special "Super Six" 2 bbl intake (~1976+) to use a 2 bbl carb, and almost everyone uses the Carter BBD for that. But, those intakes are getting rare and expensive. For about the same price, you can get a 4 bbl alum intake (Clifford or Offenhauser). A 390 cfm 4 bbl carb can conceivable give better mileage than a 2 bbl. For super-bling, the Aussie Speed Hurricane 4 bbl intake can't be beat, but >$500.
 
TylerW said:
That's true but the Carter doesn't have the 1920's inherant flaws such as side hung float, gasksts below fuel level, metering block and the famous Holley ruptured pump diaphragm port
Click to expand...
Pretty much all the Holley carbs have gaskets below fuel level and it is an imminently successful line of cabs. Many carbs have side hung floats, including all of the 1850 4 BBL Holley carbs which have been great for about 50 years now! And many carbs suffer from bad accel pump diaphragms. The Carter BBS has issues with worn out shaft bushings, so add that to you list of carb deficiencies. None of these items are 'inherently' bad as they are common to many carbs.

Geesh, what is with the obsessing over 1920's? I read that you had fits with your Holley 1920 (s); many (most?) others have not. An opinion and experience is fine, but it is just that: an opinion and an experience. So do the new guys a favor and be upfront that it is just your personal viewpoint. I had ZERO issues with the rebuild of my 1962 vintage Holley 1920 but I don't go around praising them as the end all and be all of carbs just because it worked out fine one time.
 
nm9stheham said:
Pretty much all the Holley carbs have gaskets below fuel level and it is an imminently successful line of cabs. Many carbs have side hung floats, including all of the 1850 4 BBL Holley carbs which have been great for about 50 years now! And many carbs suffer from bad accel pump diaphragms. The Carter BBS has issues with worn out shaft bushings, so add that to you list of carb deficiencies. None of these items are 'inherently' bad as they are common to many carbs.

Geesh, what is with the obsessing over 1920's? I read that you had fits with your Holley 1920 (s); many (most?) others have not. An opinion and experience is fine, but it is just that: an opinion and an experience. So do the new guys a favor and be upfront that it is just your personal viewpoint. I had ZERO issues with the rebuild of my 1962 vintage Holley 1920 but I don't go around praising them as the end all and be all of carbs just because it worked out fine one time.
Click to expand...

Did you read post #7 where I said "IMO"... In My Opinion?

This is not my first rodeo with 1920 carbs. I've had probably a dozen and only a couple ran well. The rest had stumbles, surges, leaks and stalls. Of COURSE they can be made to run well, but the problem is that the vast percentage have been through mass rebuilders by now and that ruins them.

In addition, I don't care what anyone says....I don't want the potential for a gas leak over a hot manifold.

I swapped the 1920 for an '87 Holley 1945 and it works perfectly. That's my choice, same as yours is using a 1920. Case closed.

The OP should name who it was here that lied to him about that carb.
 
Believe post #19.

My 1969 Dart 225 w/ Holley 1920 idled terribly for ~18 years liking to die at stoplights. This was thru 3 auto parts rebuilt carbs (even rebuilding some myself), fussing w/ intakes, head jobs. No mechanic could solve it, though I tried several head jobs they suggested. When a whole rebuilt long-block still didn't fix it, I tried a 4th carb and it finally ran like a dream. 1920's have a sealed metering block that can get clogged, and most rebuilders don't touch it. Don't believe that mechanics in the old days were more competent than today's.

Nobody mentioned that 1965- slants used a rotating shaft from the pedal. I think only the Carter BBS had linkage for that.
 
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Whether equipped with a Holley 1920 or a Carter BBS, the '60-'66 A-bodies (Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda) with Slant-6 engines -- except '65 and '66 models with factory A/C -- had a rotating-rod throttle linkage arrangement that requires a carburetor with the correct throttle lever fitting to accept the rod.

The BBS and the 1920 both have their own characteristic dammit-points, but the BBS has fewer of them…only one, in fact: if the screws holding the three castings together are overtightened, the casting flanges can warp over many years. Usually not a problem as long as the same castings are used together (and using two gaskets at each flange tends to solve whatever minor air leaks might result from the warpage). The BBS holds up better in the long run; eventually the 1920s reach a point where they're just plain done and cannot be brought back from the dead without totally ridiculous amounts of money and effort, and sometimes not even then.

Better than the BBS and 1920 both was the Bendix Stromberg model W, which unfortunately was used only in one year (1963) and only on bigger cars (B- and C-bodies). That's a very durably good-running carb with very nice quality castings, no gasket flanges below fuel level, etc.

The first-version Holley 1920s on the Slant-6 engines of 1962-'63 weren't radically different, but had some better design and build in them than the '64-up carbs. As the '60s went on and especially in the '70-'73 timeframe, the Holley 1920 was progressively made cheaper, nastier and more problematic. Meanwhile, the BBS got progressively improved; the final version (used on '71 198s) is one of my favourite swap-on carbs.

The original poster's carb is a "remanufactured" 1973 Holley 1920 1-barrel -- one of the cruddiest versions of that carb, made much worse by the abusive "remanufacturing" process. Castings aggressively blast-cleaned...passivation coating gone; open-pore potmetal of poor quality in the first place will rapidly turn into powdery white "metal mould" corrosion.
 
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