I need help Identifying a couple wires.

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Whatever the problem, 8 ohms in ANY wire is way way way too much. If you make a wire LONG enough and SMALL enough you'd get that much, but not in anything used in your car

The headlight power comes directly from the welded splice. If you are getting power at the battery (fuse link) terminal of the bulkhead, and no headlights, suspect that terminal in the bulkhead, the ammeter/ connections.

If the problem still exists/ crops back up, and you have no power internal to the car, see that you have power INTO the bulkhead as you did before, and then see if you have power at the alternator output stud. If not, the problem HAS to be in the main battery feed/ bulkhead/ ammeter connections/ back out the bulkhead.
 
Hmm, i thought i wrote it but i must not have. I got that 8 ohm reading without even attempting to take any paint off the grounding bolt or even scratching it with my test lead. I was more looking for continuity but somehow i remember seeing the reading that popped up.

I knew it couldnt have been too much because i had just driven it without any issues less than 48hrs ago. Im going to see if i can dig that old relay out of the garbage and open it up for a look inside. No telling what ill find:-)
 

the shunt in my 66's ammeter grenaded right in my driveway a couple months ago. went to start it, 2 revolutions of the motor then CLUNK....nothing. took about 15 minutes to find that, then found half the bulkhead collectors were either A. cooked, or B. corroded all to hell. Horrible firewall and subframe grounds werent helping a damn thing either. I ended up re-wiring the entire engine bay from the bulkhead connectors and half of the dashboard (including an ammeter bypass) since the 2 connectors ripped half the pins out of the circuit board. So i feel your pain on this, cant really blame it though for being 46 years old....
 
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