I thought I found the answer….but no

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easymotorspo

easymotorspo

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1969 Dodge Dart, street/strip (more strip), 383 stroker (496), 4 speed. There is no factory wiring (none).
I need to know how to wire this square-back 3 wire alternator. Can someone tell me where the wires go when you have no factory wires.
I have searched the forums but now I am more confused than before. Lol
I am running a MSD Distributor #8545 with a MSD 6AL #6425 and a MSD Coil #8253. Thanks, Erick

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What do you have for ANY wiring, that is you have it rigged with a toggle panel, etc, so you can run it?

As shown in the diagram, the one terminal on the VR goes to switched 12V "ignition run". It branches off to EITHER field terminal. The second field terminal hooks to the remaining terminal of the VR. VR MUST be grounded to battery neg. MUST. A good way is to install a ground cable IE "Ford style" starter/ eyelet to eyelet cable from rear bolt hole on driver side head to firewall, sometimes master cylinder studs work good for that. Remaining wire is output, at big stud on alternator, goes to battery. I'd run at least no 10 for stock alternator, either a pair or 3x not 10's in parallel or no8 or larger
 
Thank you sir, dumb questions:
How do I know which field is +\-?
On the + that goes from alternator, T’s into the ignition and goes to regulator. Is that on only when key is on/run position?
What size wire should these be?
 
67Dart273 said:
What do you have for ANY wiring, that is you have it rigged with a toggle panel, etc, so you can run it?

As shown in the diagram, the one terminal on the VR goes to switched 12V "ignition run". It branches off to EITHER field terminal. The second field terminal hooks to the remaining terminal of the VR. VR MUST be grounded to battery neg. MUST. A good way is to install a ground cable IE "Ford style" starter/ eyelet to eyelet cable from rear bolt hole on driver side head to firewall, sometimes master cylinder studs work good for that. Remaining wire is output, at big stud on alternator, goes to battery. I'd run at least no 10 for stock alternator, either a pair or 3x not 10's in parallel or no8 or larger
Click to expand...
So the fields are interchangeable?
 
Yes, and that reminds me BE DARN CERTAIN that you CHECK the field terminals for continuity. The two field terminals connected to the rotor which is a simple electromagnet. They should show a low resistance or "good continuity" from terminal to terminal and infinity/ open to ground. This is a common problem on rebuilt/ etc alternators of this type
 
67Dart273 said:
Yes, and that reminds me BE DARN CERTAIN that you CHECK the field terminals for continuity. The two field terminals connected to the rotor which is a simple electromagnet. They should show a low resistance or "good continuity" from terminal to terminal and infinity/ open to ground. This is a common problem on rebuilt/ etc alternators of this type
Click to expand...
May I ask how do I do that?
 
easymotorspo said:
What do you mean?
Click to expand...
Simply make a wire to fit one of the fields and bolt it to anything metallic. I used to bolt it to the inner fender to make sure it was a good ground and had a short wire, but you could bolt it to where the ground strap is on the firewall or anywhere else you can find a good ground. Had to do that when I used a 69 dual field alternator on a 68 Dart...
 
HemiSSDart said:
Ground one of the fields then you won't have to run a newer VR...
Click to expand...
I would rather see him run the 70 and later VR. They are much easier to come by and a better design.

But if you do modify it, just ground the terminal to the alternator case. BUT BEFORE YOU DO please do as I asked to make sure one is not already grounded, AKA check continuity from each terminal to the case. Both should be OPEN to the case.

You don't know how to check continuity? You don't have a multimeter? Test lamp?

If one of the field terminals is grounded, and you ground the OTHER one, you will burn up a 69 VR. If one of the two is grounded, and you use a 70/ later VR, and if the wrong field is connected, you will burn up the switched ignition "run" circuit. What I am saying is, it is COMMON to find an isolated field alternator--such as you bought--with one terminal grounded.
 
67Dart273 said:
I would rather see him run the 70 and later VR. They are much easier to come by and a better design.

But if you do modify it, just ground the terminal to the alternator case. BUT BEFORE YOU DO please do as I asked to make sure one is not already grounded, AKA check continuity from each terminal to the case. Both should be OPEN to the case.

You don't know how to check continuity? You don't have a multimeter? Test lamp?

If one of the field terminals is grounded, and you ground the OTHER one, you will burn up a 69 VR. If one of the two is grounded, and you use a 70/ later VR, and if the wrong field is connected, you will burn up the switched ignition "run" circuit. What I am saying is, it is COMMON to find an isolated field alternator--such as you bought--with one terminal grounded.
Click to expand...
I had issues with the alternators not lasting long if just grounded to the case of the alternator, grounding it elsewhere worked much better. But you are correct, I just don't like doing it that way...
 
67Dart273 said:
I would rather see him run the 70 and later VR. They are much easier to come by and a better design.

But if you do modify it, just ground the terminal to the alternator case. BUT BEFORE YOU DO please do as I asked to make sure one is not already grounded, AKA check continuity from each terminal to the case. Both should be OPEN to the case.

You don't know how to check continuity? You don't have a multimeter? Test lamp?

If one of the field terminals is grounded, and you ground the OTHER one, you will burn up a 69 VR. If one of the two is grounded, and you use a 70/ later VR, and if the wrong field is connected, you will burn up the switched ignition "run" circuit. What I am saying is, it is COMMON to find an isolated field alternator--such as you bought--with one terminal grounded
HemiSSDart said:
I had issues with the alternators not lasting long if just grounded to the case of the alternator, grounding it elsewhere worked much better. But you are correct, I just don't like doing it that way...
Click to expand...
i will run it to firewall, because that is also grounded to motor/frame. What size wire would you recommend? Thanks for all your help…
Click to expand...
 
HemiSSDart said:
I had issues with the alternators not lasting long if just grounded to the case of the alternator, grounding it elsewhere worked much better. But you are correct, I just don't like doing it that way...
Click to expand...
i will run it to firewall, because that is also grounded to motor/frame. What size wire would you recommend? Thanks for all your help…
 
Sorry that was for Hemi! My fat thumb! Lol. I have a multimeter and can test it. Now I understand, thank you!!
 
HemiSSDart said:
Simply make a wire to fit one of the fields and bolt it to anything metallic. I used to bolt it to the inner fender to make sure it was a good ground and had a short wire, but you could bolt it to where the ground strap is on the firewall or anywhere else you can find a good ground. Had to do that when I used a 69 dual field alternator on a 68 Dart...
Click to expand...
Another question Hemi, the field I don’t ground, do I leave It open?
 
Why not just get a 100 amp GM one wire alternator. One wire to the battery and that is all you need. Turns on by itself at 800 rpms

Steve 064.JPG
 
Speaking of alternators... Mine has been sitting for 45 years, i can't see a reason the windings would go bad.. but the bearings will for sure have old hard grease in them.. is it possible to take them apart clean/relube the old bearings? It's a old style single pole... I mean. i could just replace it but if i can save it with a hours work that's better to me :)

P.S. i know the single wire GM ones are easy/cheap but i SOOOO hate seeing them in a engine bay... might as well just go LS and have a better engine at that point :)
 
Following/bookmarked for future reference since I'll be wiring up my wireless Duster in a couple of weeks. :rolleyes:
 
Why add all the wires and regulator when all you need is a one wire alternator. This does't make any sense at all. Thought this is a wireless race car.
-Boosted- said:
Following/bookmarked for future reference since I'll be wiring up my wireless Duster in a couple of weeks. :rolleyes:
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It won't be wireless if you follow the garus on this thread. Those old Mopar alternators suck on a race car. GM is the way to go.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Why add all the wires and regulator when all you need is a one wire alternator. This does't make any sense at all. Thought this is a wireless race car.

It won't be wireless if you follow the garus on this thread. Those old Mopar alternators suck on a race car. GM is the way to go.
Click to expand...
Yeah, agreed. I am getting the car up and running with a mildly built 360 that has the Mopar alternator. Once my 408 is ready, it will have a GM 1 wire alternator. The harness that I am building is setup for the 1 wire but since a 360/mopar 2 wire alternator setup is going in the car short term, I may need this thread to use as a cheat sheet.

Of course I could change my mind and just throw the 1 wire on the 360 so I don't have to redo anything later.... lol
 
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