Idiots...

-
John,

Where you have had a problem with a leaking fuel pump, and hopefully replaced it by now, the old pump may have been the cause of the oil light flickering at low rpm. Most likely gas has diluted the oil in the sump, which will do two things: one it will not allow proper oil pressure to develop; and gas thinned oil take out the engine bearings rather quickly.

I hope you have changed the oil and filter. Also under the oil filter there is a pressure relief valve that regulates the engine oil pressure. It is one of the items that require occasional inspection and cleaning, perhaps every 24,000 miles or so, I don’t recall exactly. Where you are experiencing a flickering oil pressure light, one other cause is a pressure relief valve stuck open.

While you are on oil detail, it would be a good time to pop off the valve cover to see how clean the top end is, or how much sludge has built up. Also check the valve lash adjustment while the valve cover is off. Stock valve lash: intake 0.010”, and exhaust 0.012” Correct valve lash will help idle quality.

Look here for valve lash adjustment procedure:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=72139&highlight=#72139
 
wjajr said:
John,

Where you have had a problem with a leaking fuel pump, and hopefully replaced it by now, the old pump may have been the cause of the oil light flickering at low rpm. Most likely gas has diluted the oil in the sump, which will do two things: one it will not allow proper oil pressure to develop; and gas thinned oil take out the engine bearings rather quickly.

I hope you have changed the oil and filter. Also under the oil filter there is a pressure relief valve that regulates the engine oil pressure. It is one of the items that require occasional inspection and cleaning, perhaps every 24,000 miles or so, I don’t recall exactly. Where you are experiencing a flickering oil pressure light, one other cause is a pressure relief valve stuck open.

While you are on oil detail, it would be a good time to pop off the valve cover to see how clean the top end is, or how much sludge has built up. Also check the valve lash adjustment while the valve cover is off. Stock valve lash: intake 0.010”, and exhaust 0.012” Correct valve lash will help idle quality.

Look here for valve lash adjustment procedure:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=72139&highlight=#72139
Click to expand...

wjajr, thanks for the input, the fuel pump has been replaced, and I've checked the oil, it does not smell "gassy". I will get the car up on my set of jack stands and check out the oil pressure relief valve. I do have plans to take the valve cover of and check the lash. Thanks for the specs.

My theory is the carb idle setting was so low the RPM was insufficient to keep the oil pressure up, but enough fuel was, barely getting in with the bogus rebuild (just enough to keep from dying). With the new fuel pump in the carb was flooded and it died. No amount of turning idle speed screws did anything.
 
Stroker and Badsport - I see your point and it makes perfect sense. To me though, it seems like it would be a logical thing, the car runs bad, lets check the entire fuel system to check for leaks... NOO! They ASSUME the carb is to blame, and yank it for a rebuild. Any GOOD shop would double check to make sure the system is in good shape. The owners of the previous car were not car people so it stands for reason they left it at this shop and said, "it runs bad, can you fix it?" Viola!... the situation comes to a head with me.
 
I understand your frustration...but understand this. Through your TWO DAYS of rantin and bitchin and gripin and whinin on an internet forum, you couldda redone the ENTIRE fuel system yourself and had your junk FIXED.
 
StrokerScamp said:
I understand your frustration...but understand this. Through your TWO DAYS of rantin and bitchin and gripin and whinin on an internet forum, you couldda redone the ENTIRE fuel system yourself and had your junk FIXED.
Click to expand...

Gee Ward, quit being so hard on the Beaver.
 
70DartSedan said:
Stroker and Badsport - I see your point and it makes perfect sense. To me though, it seems like it would be a logical thing, the car runs bad, lets check the entire fuel system to check for leaks... NOO! They ASSUME the carb is to blame, and yank it for a rebuild. Any GOOD shop would double check to make sure the system is in good shape. The owners of the previous car were not car people so it stands for reason they left it at this shop and said, "it runs bad, can you fix it?" Viola!... the situation comes to a head with me.
Click to expand...
Do you KNOW the other side of the story?? Exactly what was said buy the previous owner to the shop? If no, assuming anything is not something that should be done. Applying blind logic here just is not a good idea, in my opinion. For all you know the previous owners very well could have told the shop owner I am dumping this turd, just get it running so I can sell it. My best friend owns a trans shop, you would be surprised at what people ask him to do.....
 
Not trying to be hard at ALL. I'm trying to make him see that in two work days (16 hours) worth of work, all of his problems couldda been solved. I'm trying to tell him that it IS that easy.
 
inkjunkie said:
Do you KNOW the other side of the story?? Exactly what was said buy the previous owner to the shop? If no, assuming anything is not something that should be done. Applying blind logic here just is not a good idea, in my opinion. For all you know the previous owners very well could have told the shop owner I am dumping this turd, just get it running so I can sell it. My best friend owns a trans shop, you would be surprised at what people ask him to do.....
Click to expand...

I could not agree more! In our shop we see it all the time from people " Just put what it needs and nothing more" WE WILL NOT DO IT! Try taking apart a 3.5 Nissan Alantra to replace the primary timing chain and not the two secondary cam chains along with all the guides and tensioners! If any other mechanic has worked on one of these they will back me up on this, they are a pain in the ***! Been there and done that for the last time. Not in our shop! If you want it done half ***, take it somewhere else. Like I always say, "THERE ARE THREE SIDE TO EVERY STORY,YOUR SIDE,HIS SIDE, AND THE TRUTH SOMEWHERE IN THE MIDDLE."
 
I learned along the way,that if you don't have time to do it right the first time,how are you going to have it done a second ?? Or,Penny Wise Pound Foolish !! That's kinda the reason I have a Pro building my /6 !!! If he can do such a great job on the MOPAR MISSILE,how can I go wrong with him building my 6er ??
 
strokerscamp said:
i understand your frustration...but understand this. Through your two days of rantin and bitchin and gripin and whinin on an internet forum, you couldda redone the entire fuel system yourself and had your junk fixed.
Click to expand...
WOO!!! Preach it!!!
 
When customers don't follow a shop's advice, it is often due to lack of trust. A co-worker (electrical engineer) asked me about his GM truck w/ LS engine. Because it was losing 1 gal of coolant per week, his regular mechanic whom he trusted said he needed a new engine for $5000, since it must be a bad head gasket (heard that before?). I asked if he had brown mousse in the radiator, if the mechanic had checked compression, etc. What about a heater hose or leaking heater core? He had been smelling coolant last winter. He bypassed the heater core as I suggested, no more coolant loss, and no more visiting that shop.
 
Try an oil flush to clean up your oil light flickering at ldle. I could idle my 6 down to where you could count the fan blades and my light never came on. I like Sea Foam for a flush, throw a can in oil and let idle for 60 mins and change your oil. I run 15w40 DIESEL OIL in all my older stuff and it really helps keep engines clean and helps with oil pressure.
 
breakstuff said:
Gee Ward, quit being so hard on the Beaver.
Click to expand...

What exactly do you mean by beaver? I know what that means but I'm not sure if it is the same context you are using it in.

Well, inkjunkie, that thought has crossed my mind and I wouldn't put it past the previous owners because the "repairs" were made in November of 2011, right before the car went up for sale.

Thanks for the understanding Stroker. I got 2 more days of high school left, I'll work on the car Thursday, when I am no longer obigated by the State of Illinois to attend school. My problem has been time management, now that I will be free, I'll be more than glad to work on my own car.:coffee2:
 
Good, I'm glad you took my comments in the context I meant them. I wasn't trying to be brash. I'm just trying to get you to see that fuel system work is easy peasy. Just start rippin into it. You got all of us to have your back.
 
70DartSedan said:
What exactly do you mean by beaver? I know what that means but I'm not sure if it is the same context you are using it in.
Click to expand...
I think it was referring to the old show leave it to beaver. The kid was always learning something by the end of the show. It might be a reference youngin's like us wouldn't catch. I'm 18 btw.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I know about leave it to beaver, I've never met anyone who would reference it, lol. Beaver is something else also (exclusive to the opposite sex) haha. Good to meet you Matt, I'm the same age as you.
 
70DartSedan said:
I know about leave it to beaver, I've never met anyone who would reference it, lol. Beaver is something else also (exclusive to the opposite sex) haha. Good to meet you Matt, I'm the same age as you.
Click to expand...
I know exactly what a beaver is cause I'm a very lewd person. The leave it to beaver though was the the only logical thing that popped into mind cause I certainly don't think he was calling you a p%$$y. We're alot nicer than that once spring rolls around and we can take our toys out and play. Winter.... not so much. Anywho it was nice meeting you too, if you ever wanna talk about cars, I can talk your ear off.
 
I bet you can, talk my ear off. I know what you mean about being anxious for spring, but try having a '69 Charger with a 440 and it has been 4 years since I started the resto, that is some serious will to wait. I'd have to agree with you on the comment made earlier, just trying to clear up the gray areas in that post.
 
"Gee Ward, quit being so hard on the Beaver."

Ward was the Beaver's dad :) and that's what Beave's mom often said

As far as shops go? I know there are honest ones out there. I commend those that run their shops that way. Unfortunately, when people dont understand what you are doing, all of their friends will fill them full of reasons to distrust what is being fixed.

Then again, when I was dating my wife, she called because her car wouldn't start (winter), but her co-workers CAA membership would tow it for free to have the battery checked/replaced. A few hours later she calls crying because they told her the car was UNSAFE, and shouldn't be driven! Brakes were toast, rotors scored, two wheel bearings shot, and a bad axle. I called them and told them to hold off for a couple of hours. I met my tow truck driver down there to pick it up. Upon disassembly, I noticed 1) original dirt on the lugnuts, makes it tough to check the rear drums I daresay, 2) rotors - mint 3) pads more than 75%. And the worst part? A fresh cut in the outer CV boot. So fresh that the grease had yet to spray out at speed, and surprisingly no salt or sand in the boot when I took it apart. Trust is earned for sure.

Grant
 
OneOfMany said:
"Gee Ward, quit being so hard on the Beaver."

Ward was the Beaver's dad :) and that's what Beave's mom often said

As far as shops go? I know there are honest ones out there. I commend those that run their shops that way. Unfortunately, when people dont understand what you are doing, all of their friends will fill them full of reasons to distrust what is being fixed.

Then again, when I was dating my wife, she called because her car wouldn't start (winter), but her co-workers CAA membership would tow it for free to have the battery checked/replaced. A few hours later she calls crying because they told her the car was UNSAFE, and shouldn't be driven! Brakes were toast, rotors scored, two wheel bearings shot, and a bad axle. I called them and told them to hold off for a couple of hours. I met my tow truck driver down there to pick it up. Upon disassembly, I noticed 1) original dirt on the lugnuts, makes it tough to check the rear drums I daresay, 2) rotors - mint 3) pads more than 75%. And the worst part? A fresh cut in the outer CV boot. So fresh that the grease had yet to spray out at speed, and surprisingly no salt or sand in the boot when I took it apart. Trust is earned for sure.

Grant
Click to expand...

Agreed, Grant, the proof is in the pudding as the old saying goes. Why does your story sound like a dealership horror story, lol.
 
Save your money to get the manual, but start with the basics. Take the tank out, have it cleaned and check the fuel level sending unit. Put the best fuel filter you can on the car, and plan on changing it on a regular basis. I know a lot of the parts these days are crap since all the major manufacturers have farmed their production out the third world countries with cheap labor. It goes back to the old adage, "If at first you don't succeed, try try again". I'm not disrespecting you, but it's a learning curve all the way through.
 
Wanna hear an IDIOT phone conversation? I find I have a bad exhaust valve in my box of valves while assembling my 360 LA heads. I kinda want to get these on that night so I call the local Dodge dealership thinking they may still stock a '86 360 exhaust valve (yeah, right!) that I can pick up that day. So the parts counter guy answers the phone and I ask if they have an exhaust valve for an 86 D100 pickup...there is a little pause on the phone while he pulls up his computer image (or something) and then asks..." Is this an emissions part?" I chuckled and said "hell yeah, it is THEE emission part! you know, you got an intake valve and an exhaust valve???" He puts me on hold for about 2 minutes and calmly says,"that part has been discontinued..." Hee hee I should have known not to ask a dealer for a 25 year old part. RockAuto, 12.50+2.50 shipping, got it in 2 days. Only reason I went with Rockauto is that no one carried one around here, NAPA, Oreilly, Autozone...and they were 22.00 there online! Jeez!
 
I tried to get T-F parts through a local dealership. I filled out a form created by the dealership that ont he form included: Name, Email, Phone and Year, Make, Model, VIN, Part Number in question with a description. They said that they needed the Year, Make, Model, VIN, and part number. So that just frustrated the hell out of me.

This woman on the other end of the computer asks for my Year, Make, model and part number.

I tell he no, how about you look at the for again and check.

I get an eamil back saying something to the effect of sir just tell me the information and don't be rude with me.

By now my mind races and "wow" just "wow" she has the gall to tell me this after I ALREADY submitted a form to the dealership where all this info was REQUIRED. I went and I ranted on her about how inept she was and how useless Chrysler is now-a-days.

I never heard back...
 
70DartSedan said:
Agreed, Grant, the proof is in the pudding as the old saying goes. Why does your story sound like a dealership horror story, lol.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately it wasn't a dealership. Just a local garage trying to boost their profit on a simple/not too profitable job by attempting to instill fear in someone they believed incapable of verifying their diagnosis. :wack:

Grant
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top