idle questions

[38 Dodge]

OK I have been reading several post on here about this same title, but I want to try and get some advice on what i should do next.
This is what I have accomplished and what I'm thinking about trying next.
I have a 225 Slant six in my 62 Valiant wagon and I cannot get it to idle with out keeping my foot on the gas pedal. All I can get out of it is 450 RPM max at idle. This what I have done so far.
1) I adjusted the valves first time ever for me.
2) rebuilt the holley one barrel
3) accomplished a compression check with the following results all plugs out and turned over three times.
1-90, 2-105, 3-95, 4-95, 5-110, 6-110
Also please look at the pictures of my plugs
4) I have adjusted the distributor in every direction and even adjusted it using the bolt on the bottom with no increased RPM it just stumbles and dies. I have also checked the timing with a timing light and move the timing marks from off scale (30-50 BDC), when i get it adjusted up to about 5BDC it dies
What I'm thinking I will accomplish tomorrow is re-adjust the valves, and re-stab the distributor with # at TDC. One question I do have can you stb the distro in any other pistion then 0 and 180 out?
Thanks for any advice and help getting me running again.
5) I'm running a Pretronix (however you spell it) system
Lastly my future plans were until this started is to install bigger valves, shave the head, get a reground CAM, and lastly install my two one barrel intake with carbs.

first picture is all six plugs
second pictures is 6-5-4 in order left to right 6 is the worst of the lot
last picture is of 3-2-1 in order from left to right one looks like it has never been used

 

[beat2Hell]

you know, I had a bad coil in my '65 that did that to me. It was actually okay half the time till the coil heated up, but after that there was no idle no way no how.

 

[38 Dodge]

How do you check a coil other then replacing it?

 

[kittypancake]

WOW! Mine's not as bad off as yours!

My actually runs + drives fairly decent. In fact slightly better with the Pertronix than the points. It runs better if I set the advance further, but I I'm at the end of the lockdown adjustment.

 

[TrailBeast]

Take a good look for vacuum leaks towards the front of the intake (Especially around the intake gasket on 1.)

 

[Bulldozer]

its definitely running on the rich side. after you get your timing situated, double check your float level. did you get the check ball back where it needs to be when rebuilding the carb? make sure the needle valve is moving freely in the seat.

 

[wjajr]

Yes, most likely a vacuum leak around #1 intake runner causing lean condition and white plug. Plugs 2- 5 look ok a bit on rich side, and #6 richer. High float level can be causing a slight rich condition, and an incorrectly adjusted idle circuit can be part of your idle problem.

With #1 running lean, a too low 450 rpm idle rpm, coupled with an incorrectly adjusted accelerator pump will cause stalling during acceleration from idle.

Idle speed can be adjusted by idle mixture screw, base timing, and idle speed adjustment screw. You need to first fix the vacuum leak at #1 (most likely by installing a new manifold gasket), than set idle mixture with the aid of a vacuum gage. Once those two tasks are accomplished, you can experiment with base timing, and idle speed adjustment screw. Chances are you will have to bounce back and forth tweaking idle mixture, timing, and idle speed until it is where it needs to be.

Stock slants like 5 to 10 degrees of advance before top dead center as a base timing.

Once idle speed and mixture is sorted out, and a hesitation or flat spot persists when accelerating, than an accelerator pump adjustment needs to made.

 

[38 Dodge]

OK here is where I'm at I have the valve cover off and need to know what I should set the valves too cold just to try and get it running. so I can adjust them while the car is running.
I will also remove and replace the intake anyone got any suggustion on an intake NAPA, O'reilly's who, what, or which should I look for?
As far as the Carb, how do you check the float too see if is too high? Idle mixture screw as set at 2 1/5 turns is that two high if so what should I start out at?
The only thing that bugs me is that the car runs really good at speed it just will not idle worth a crap. lLike the first post only get it up to 450 max on the RPMs
Side note where can I get bigger valves from I was pointed to a guy on ebay but he is out. If I'm going to be doing all this work I want to get started with head work so I can change my intake to run my dual single barrel setups. then I will have all the issues for two carbs instead of one HAHAHAHA.

 

[wjajr]

Slow down for a second. Suddenly you are heading in two different directions; fix existing set up, or full head and intake modification. Which is it going to be?
All the previous problems will be eliminated if you use new manifolds and carburetors.

If you want to just fix original engine, than get a set of the good gaskets:
http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/87.htm
Those thick gaskets should seal up your warped manifolds ending any vacuum leaks. I use them on my car.

Engines are just air pumps. The reason the engine runs well at speed is as the rpm increases the amount of air entering via vacuum leak becomes progressively smaller in relation to the total air moving through the engine making it irrelevant. When engine is idling, very low air volume is being pumped, so a vacuum leak will dilute the air fuel mixture enough to cause a too lean condition, and poor idle.

Once you get the combustion chemistry (air fuel ratio) the same for each cylinder, you can than start tuning the carburetor. If you don't you are just wasting time and effort as it will never run right.

Setting lash cold: just add 0.002” to stock setting of 0.010” I & 0.012” E. This will get you real close once engine has warmed up for final adjustment.

Side note where can I get bigger valves from I was pointed to a guy on ebay but he is out.

Funny you should ask, this very question came up on /6 this morning, and a few of the engine gurus chimed in on a work a round:
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49079

Setting float level should have been covered in rebuild instructions. Look here for more carburetor tuning information:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33102

 

[BillGrissom]

You can probe for a vacuum leak w/ propane. It should smooth out when you flow it near the leak. Never worked for me, but I probably didn't have a leak either.

Your compression numbers are a bit low, but don't get excited since many ways to read compression wrong. Turn the engine over by hand by tugging on the fan belts and verify you must fight 3 strong air springs per revolution. If so, the compression is fine. However, interesting that your clean plug is in the lowest cylinder. I had a bad cyl in my 69 slant that just flowed raw gas, so it was perfectly clean inside. Your spark plug looks like that.

Still, low compression or a dead cylinder wouldn't stop your car from idling faster. Not sure why it will only idle 450 rpm max. I would expect the other way - "won't idle below ___ rpm without dying". Is that with the idle stop screw on the linkage all the way in? If so, you aren't getting enough fuel, so suspect the carburetor. What model is yours? The Holley 1920 was bad for me (3 carbs) until I found a great one.