Ignition Control Module problem

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I know there have been tons of post about the various ignition modules; black, chrome, orange, blue etc. I wish there would be a detailed sticky on the Tech Archive section on this along with the FAQs and solutions. I picked up this 4 pin blue box from an industrial engine supplier that was getting rid of their older Chrysler stuff. Works like a champ.
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Where?


Ohhh, way over there. :D
 
... I know you've seen them too where the gel gets hot and runs out...
I suggest you slowly back away from that comment. There are some members here (not me) who swear that the Mopar ECU is problem-free and powerful. They take offense to anyone who suggests the ECU can fail, or decides to use a GM HEI module (later electronics) and such.
 
After the winter I got my car out to get it cleaned up to enjoy the summer cruises and I have had a hell of of a time getting it to run like it did. It has a 360 in it and around 2000rpm it would start to cut out and wouldnt rev any higher. I have tested my ignition module because I tested it and it tested bad. I got a new one from Auto Zone and it does the same thing! I put the old one on and it runs fine. When dealing with this thinking it was my distributor I changed it and put on a new cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires, retimed it. Im just afraid to run the old ignition module seeing how it tested bad, but it makes the car run like it did, I just dont want to get stranded because I have overlooked something simple.
I need help to find out why my car could be doing this???
Please help!!!!
Im really leaning towards going HEI! To eliminate all the old ignition parts
when they are tested they run a hight and low tpm test on them if it doesnt go past a certain rpm its a junk modual
 
if you wanna try HEI

1) need a heat sink
2) if you stall the car with the battery flat and the alternator running at full charge ,you will kill the module. (cold day hard to start sluggish starting ammeter pinned to the end stop when started and running. frozen brakes parking brake on, revs-UP, stall it. 8 out of 10 times module is dead.)
The alternator spikes the electrical system when the stall occurs. HEI module has no protettion in this cheap set up. no condenser. no diode.

however cheap easy to replace, available everywhere, GM brands in US Peugeot Alfa fiat in europe. Bosch in Australia and SA

buy 2
run a 12 volt coil with approx 1 ohm primary resistance (anything off a mid 80s 6 or 8)
should see you good for 1000 to 5500 rpm

running one with a blaster 2 is pushing it a bit 0.8 ohm primary gives module a hard time when not used as originally intended.

if you can solder you can hide one in a dismantled mopar box use your orginal wires and nobody will know.

make sure you trigger it the right way cars works good or car runs rough...

bypass the ballast or connect all wires to 1 end with piggy back connectors

Dave

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HEI comments.

- no problem using a Blaster 2 coil with 0.8 ohm primary, as original HEI coil was 0.6 ohm
- using a canister coil like the Blaster will not produce as much spark energy as the original E core design. The MSD #8207 is a better coil to use, E core
- HEI module has internal current limiting
 
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