sparkyct
Active Member
which fuse handles the ignition? I'm getting nothing at the alternator, dist., or coil
ignition problems
- Thread starter sparkyct
- Start date
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What year ?
Fusible link at starter relay or bulk head connector.I had the same problem on my 67 dart and I bypassed my amp gauge.
Read this part 1 and 2
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Not to say it is not the ignition switch.I would check the bulk head connector first.
Fusible link at starter relay or bulk head connector.I had the same problem on my 67 dart and I bypassed my amp gauge.
Read this part 1 and 2
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Not to say it is not the ignition switch.I would check the bulk head connector first.
The alternator wire goes straight to the amp gauge and after the amp gauge the wire has a splice of many wires that feed the fuse box,ignition switch,coil...
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
WTF are we workin' on here?
AS above, the ignition feed (IGN 1, or "igntion run") the ignition switch is FED UNfused power from a taped up factory splice that comes off one side of the ammeter
IF you are getting accessory power -- wipers, heater, radio, then the switch is GETTING power OK
The switch feeds IGNITION power OUT of the switch (dark blue) through the bulkhead to one side of the ballast resistor.
You say, "getting nothing"
Does it crank? Fire and die on the starter, or not?
AS above, the ignition feed (IGN 1, or "igntion run") the ignition switch is FED UNfused power from a taped up factory splice that comes off one side of the ammeter
IF you are getting accessory power -- wipers, heater, radio, then the switch is GETTING power OK
The switch feeds IGNITION power OUT of the switch (dark blue) through the bulkhead to one side of the ballast resistor.
You say, "getting nothing"
Does it crank? Fire and die on the starter, or not?
sparkyct
Active Member
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the car is a '72 dart swinger, slant six. It turns over, everything works except ignition.
Ballast
sparkyct
Active Member
also, forgot to ask about the resistor looking thing that the neg. coil wire goes to before it goes to ground. What is it? mine's shot. does the coil still need one? Thanks
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK, so you are saying that with key in "run" you have no juice to the ignition or alternator?
Does anything on the cluster work? fuel gauge? oil light? IF so, the ignition switch and it's connector is OK
Your top suspects are
the bulkhead connector
IF the gauges/ oil light don't work, you are looking at the connector on the ignition switch or the switch itself.
Useable diagrams from My Mopar:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartB.JPG
Does anything on the cluster work? fuel gauge? oil light? IF so, the ignition switch and it's connector is OK
Your top suspects are
the bulkhead connector
IF the gauges/ oil light don't work, you are looking at the connector on the ignition switch or the switch itself.
Useable diagrams from My Mopar:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1972/72DartB.JPG
sparkyct
Active Member
Thanks, will give it a growl tomorrow
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If the ballast resistor is broken, it will spark while the starter is running but die the second you let off the starter. Common problem. Most people carry a spare ballast, except those of us that changed to HEI ignition that doesn't need the old ballast. The ballast is the white ceramic rectangle on the firewall.
You really need a multimeter to measure the voltage at coil+, rel. to gnd. You can get one free at Harbor Freight with a coupon, so little excuse.
You really need a multimeter to measure the voltage at coil+, rel. to gnd. You can get one free at Harbor Freight with a coupon, so little excuse.
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