esserden78
Member
Thanks for your answer. I'm from Germany and I'm not familiar with the American cable designations. is it correct that the larger cables in the ignition switch connector are awg 7?
Ignition Switch Connector Fail
- Thread starter Duster7286
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
7 would be a strange gauge here in the states, "commonly." typical gauges you'll find in these cars is 18 would be about smallest, and 16 / 14 / 12 / 10
Some of the larger platforms like C bodies might use no. 8, and battery cables were OEM no. 4 for the most part.
This is always specified in OEM diagrams such as the factory service manuals, which you can download there from MyMopar.com
Some of the larger platforms like C bodies might use no. 8, and battery cables were OEM no. 4 for the most part.
This is always specified in OEM diagrams such as the factory service manuals, which you can download there from MyMopar.com
No on both the size and the system.
The sizes can vary with the year and model, however 12 gage is common.
Wire gage in these cars is to an SAE standard rather than AWG. The diameter of the conductor bundle is about the same as AWG, but the strands are slightly larger. I don't know why this was done, but that's typical. As a result the wire density is a little lower than AWG.
Diameter of wires increases with smaller numbers.
18 gage is the smallest found in 1960s Chrysler products.
12 gage is often found on main power supply circuits connecting at the main splice.
10 gage can be found in a few places, and some cars even 8 gage with some less common options.
The feed to the starter is usually 6 or 4 gage.
The gage sizes are provided in the service manual diagrams.
Go to www.mymopar.com and download the factrory service manual(s) for your year. (free)
Turn to the back of the electrical section and you will find the diagrams.
Each wire segment is coded with the a circuit code, insulation color, gage size.
For example, this is clipped from 1970 Service manual diagram and then colorized.
J1-12R is power to switch -12 gage, with Red insulation.
Q2-12BK is switched accessory feed - 12 gage with Black insulation.
(The description accessory is used for everything but the equipment to make the engine and alternator run.)
J1-12R is power to switch -12 gage, with Red insulation.
Q2-12BK is switched accessory feed - 12 gage with Black insulation.
(The description accessory is used for everything but the equipment to make the engine and alternator run.)
esserden78
Member
Ok, thanks for your answer.
I just measured that in mm and I can’t find any connectors for that
I just measured that in mm and I can’t find any connectors for that
That's insulation diameter. For every wire size there are many insulation types and thicknesses.
Inside the car, general purpose primary wire insulation is fine.
Often I can identify wire gage of original wires by relative size because I am familiar with them. But I still check the book. New wire insulation may or may not be thicker depending on the material and manufactor. I don't eyeball estimate that.
Its possible to convert from metric wire diameter to wire gage but its probably best to simply look it up in the books.
For example, what gage is the yellow S2 wire in the diagram I posted above?
Need to know the car and options to even hope to be more specific about what you have there.
That looks like it could be a twin lock connector as shown here Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals
esserden78
Member
My car is a 1972 Plymouth Satellite standard
That will have some different wiring than a Valiant or Dart.
You're going to have to track down what caused the damage. Some of those wires show more than just a little melting - and well beyond the connector.
With the pin type connectors, use a small hollow tube to release the barbs.
With flat connectors, use a flattened pin or small screw driver. Shown here:1969 Dodge Dart - Engine Compartment Main Bulkhead Connector
These tools to remove the terminals from the plastic housing are available pretty cheap.
Download the 1972 shop manual for yourself.
post photos of the wiring and we can probably help you.
The '72 shop manual diagrams cover everthing but can be challenging the first time you go to use them.
Copy just the circuits you are working on onto a sheet of paper or computer drawing.
See how things are different than the 1970 A-body drawing?
For example, look at the S2 wire. They are both yellow but in the '72 Satellite a 12 gage conductor was used.
You're going to have to track down what caused the damage. Some of those wires show more than just a little melting - and well beyond the connector.
With the pin type connectors, use a small hollow tube to release the barbs.
With flat connectors, use a flattened pin or small screw driver. Shown here:1969 Dodge Dart - Engine Compartment Main Bulkhead Connector
These tools to remove the terminals from the plastic housing are available pretty cheap.
Download the 1972 shop manual for yourself.
post photos of the wiring and we can probably help you.
The '72 shop manual diagrams cover everthing but can be challenging the first time you go to use them.
Copy just the circuits you are working on onto a sheet of paper or computer drawing.
See how things are different than the 1970 A-body drawing?
For example, look at the S2 wire. They are both yellow but in the '72 Satellite a 12 gage conductor was used.
esserden78
Member
ok, i will check the wiring and look for the error.
But I still need a new connector.
I don't know if I understood you correctly and if google always translates correctly, but is the cable cross-section that I measured on my plug correct with awg 7?
But I still need a new connector.
I don't know if I understood you correctly and if google always translates correctly, but is the cable cross-section that I measured on my plug correct with awg 7?
Google translate is incorrect.
According to the book, the S2 wire in a 1972 Satelite is 12 gage.
Gage is related to the copper conductor.
According to the book, the S2 wire in a 1972 Satelite is 12 gage.
Gage is related to the copper conductor.
I have found that if I use Google translate from English to German and back to English if the translation back to English makes sence the translation is probably good.
Ich habe festgestellt, dass die Übersetzung wahrscheinlich gut ist, wenn ich Google Translate vom Englischen ins Deutsche und zurück ins Englische verwende, wenn die Übersetzung zurück ins Englische sinnvoll ist
I've found that if I use Google Translate from English to German and back to English, if the translation back to English makes sense, then the translation is likely to be good
This is the type of tool that will release the terminals
Dies ist die Art von Werkzeug, das den Clip löst
Dies ist die Art von Werkzeug, das den Clip löst
esserden78
Member
I ordered it from eBay a few minutes ago
esserden78
Member
I read in another thread that someone took "anderson power pole" plugs. Do you have experience with it and can you recommend it?
I used to make those up all the time at a previous job.
Easy to do and robust.
If you are not going for OEM that looks like a good option.
BOLD TYPE FOR HOW IMPORTANT THIS IS
I MUST STATE AGAIN....
YOU MUST LOOK AT YOUR WIRES CAREFULLY.
THEY SHOW SIGNS OF MELTED INSULATION, AND SOMETIMES THEY MELT TOGETHER INSIDE THE WIRE WRAP WHERE YOU CAN NOT SEE.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Disagree. Anderson connectors ARE NOT MADE for permanent connections unless you find a way to retain them, IE zip tie, heat shrink, or tape. They do not have any form of latch or connector retention, other than "a small amount" of friction in the connection.
I've no idea what sort of automotive repair connectors are available in Germany, but as I mentioned earlier, the 1/4 spade/ flag terminals are very popular, and have a fair amount of friction retention
I've no idea what sort of automotive repair connectors are available in Germany, but as I mentioned earlier, the 1/4 spade/ flag terminals are very popular, and have a fair amount of friction retention
I disagree.
I used them in the solar industry. They have plenty of retention force.
You could crazy glue the left side connectors to each other and same for right side connectors.
If you put one of the sets of connectors in reverse from the rest it is now keyed so it can not be installed backwards.
My money is that the bank of connectors will never randomly fall apart.
esserden78
Member
I will take a close look at the cables and replace them if necessary
esserden78
Member
what good alternatives for connectors are there? If possible, I would like to have a single plug and not 8 individual connections. i thought i could clip the anderson plugs together into one plug
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
I use these connectors on my cars:
Amazon product ASIN B09B9WLQGV
Amazon product ASIN B09B9WLQGV
What does the melted connector feed?
You know the connectors in a desktop PC (molex)
Many of those are sized for the kind of current you would be pulling.
You know the connectors in a desktop PC (molex)
Many of those are sized for the kind of current you would be pulling.
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