Lord Sparky
Well-Known Member
Is there a trick to getting off the bulkhead connectors in the engine compartment? I don't want to break anything. The bottom seems loose, but the top seems stuck. Just pull harder? I don't see any kind of latches.
1969 Dodge Dart - Engine Compartment Main Bulkhead Connector
- Thread starter Lord Sparky
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4mulas
Fixem'up
There are four spring loaded clips, one at each corner. From the engine side you push or compress the spring a little while pushing on the bulkhead connector. Do it to all four while maintaining ‘push pressure’ on the connector. It comes out through the inside of the car
Does this make sense?
Does this make sense?
4mulas
Fixem'up
Small line shows the spring. Push there, one at a time while gently pushing the connector to the inside of the car. You may want to unhook your wires first
And the 3 connectors are held in by the tabs on the top and bottom. A pocket screwdriver will get them undone. Just be carefull, 50 year old plastic tabs break easily.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Plus one or both of the large gauge ammeter wires may have welded themselves together. They do that from time to time.
Lord Sparky
Well-Known Member
A small screwdriver prying up (to the sides--top and bottom) got the three plastic connectors off. The one for the windshield wipers was particularly nasty. Sprayed with Deoxit. Thanks for your help!
If you got that far, its prob worth your time and trouble to remove the terminals and then clean them good.
Also get some new seals from Detroit Muscle Technology (DMT).
Some pictures here.
question on the main harness plug on firewall
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if the de-oxit doesn't clean 'em enough, some more methods
Cleaning bulkhead connectors
To remove the male terminals, they have to be squeezed enough so the barb looks like the one on the right.
When you reinstall, check each one to be sure it will not back out when the connectors are squeezed together.
The female terminals have a barb on the backs.
If they look like this they are Chrysler style, Packard 58.
If they look like the ones below, they are Packard 56 series.
Both install the same way. Sometimes they are interchangable. Sometimes not and they won't fit in or they will be too loose in the connector made for the other.
When installing the females make sure the locking tab is raised.
To remove the females, use a flattened cotter pin, tiny screw driver, or the tool they make for it to depress the tab while pushing it out.
If there is a problem at the crimps, then a crimper for 'open barrel' terminals is needed to fold the wings in properly when replacing.
(above 2 pics borrowed from civilianjeep bb: BASIC WIRING 101, Getting You Started! - JeepForum.com)
Cleaning bulkhead connectors
To remove the male terminals, they have to be squeezed enough so the barb looks like the one on the right.
When you reinstall, check each one to be sure it will not back out when the connectors are squeezed together.
The female terminals have a barb on the backs.
If they look like this they are Chrysler style, Packard 58.
If they look like the ones below, they are Packard 56 series.
Both install the same way. Sometimes they are interchangable. Sometimes not and they won't fit in or they will be too loose in the connector made for the other.
When installing the females make sure the locking tab is raised.
To remove the females, use a flattened cotter pin, tiny screw driver, or the tool they make for it to depress the tab while pushing it out.
If there is a problem at the crimps, then a crimper for 'open barrel' terminals is needed to fold the wings in properly when replacing.
(above 2 pics borrowed from civilianjeep bb: BASIC WIRING 101, Getting You Started! - JeepForum.com)
I never coud have removed the female hook-ups without your picture of the 'barb.' My kind of low-voltage problem isn't many peoples' problems anymore.
bills73duster
Member
I cleaned all 24 make and female packard 56 connectors when I replaced the bulkhead connector in my 1973 duster with a dremel tool and a fine wire brush.
That way i got the spade and female connections and crimp.
I was careful not to damage the wire covering.
That way i got the spade and female connections and crimp.
I was careful not to damage the wire covering.
bills73duster
Member
If you decide to remove any or all connectors from the bulkhead plug to clean them.
Make sure you lable the connectors at the wire according to the letter or number stamped on the bulkhead plug to assure they are replaced back in the correct place.
Make sure you lable the connectors at the wire according to the letter or number stamped on the bulkhead plug to assure they are replaced back in the correct place.
I had a problem with low voltage at the + coil preventing ignition on a 1970 E body. I spent 1 1/2 years trying to find the loss with help and patience from Mattax. I replaced my ingition switch, but my problem persisted. Finally I checked current under at a load at every connection- coming into and leaving. I learned having a load on the circuit is important, instead of just doing resistance tests.
I saw it was important to have good contact to get a better picture, and cut off some insulation, realizing it is critical to cover them back up so a fire does not happen. I had a loose male connector, but my problem was the voltage coming into the ammeter gauge was good, but the power coming out was low. I bypassed the gauge by hooking the negative wire on the gage together with the positive. I need to replace the gauge, but I found my problem.
I saw it was important to have good contact to get a better picture, and cut off some insulation, realizing it is critical to cover them back up so a fire does not happen. I had a loose male connector, but my problem was the voltage coming into the ammeter gauge was good, but the power coming out was low. I bypassed the gauge by hooking the negative wire on the gage together with the positive. I need to replace the gauge, but I found my problem.
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