Ignition switch issues

[pyrojim]

How does one go about trouble shooting an ignition switch?
1966 Dart Gt.
Everything was fine, went on vacation and when I came home, nothing? No power whatsoever. No lights, no power in the car, nothing!!! Checked the battery and terminals, all good there.
After several turns of the key (maybe 15) it started. took it for a drive, brought it home and has not started since.
If it's the neutral safety, I would still get power?????
All wiring is new from headlights to tail lights. Including relays in the headlights and top. Nothing is smoked, and, after I put it together, I have had zero problems until now.
Thanks.
Jim

 

[67Dart273]

"No lights" is not the ignition switch. Most likely bad fuse link, bad connection in bulkhead connector or at the ammeter

Read this Mad article. If you don't plan on doing this mod, it explains the main power distribution

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

This diagram from that article:

Follow along. Power comes from the battery, to the starter relay, and through the fuse link, and enters the connection (RED) in the bulkhead connector.

RIGHT THERE are your no1 and no2 suspects.

Then on to the ammeter. This is the THIRD suspect.......connections at the ammeter, and the ammeter itself

From there, out the ammeter on the BLACK and to the WELDED SPLICE. This is your LAST suspect although rare

If you do not have a service manual or wiring diagram, you can download them free here

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

66 Dart:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Dart_Coronet_Service_Manual.zip

 

[Dubob]

With not having lights, I don't see it being an ignition switch. The lights should be "hot" regardless of ignition switch being on or not. When you re-wired, I'm assuming you did the dash also. If so I'd be looking at the connections on the ammeter and go from there. Something is stopping all power and every load electrically runs thru the ammeter. Then maybe move to the bulkhead connector.

Del you're fast on the keyboard!!

 

[TrailBeast]

With not having lights, I don't see it being an ignition switch. The lights should be "hot" regardless of ignition switch being on or not. When you re-wired, I'm assuming you did the dash also. If so I'd be looking at the connections on the ammeter and go from there. Something is stopping all power and every load electrically runs thru the ammeter. Then maybe move to the bulkhead connector.

Del you're fast on the keyboard!!

Hopefully by now he has a copy of that so he can just paste it into posts.

This is what I would do to get started.

1. chk battery terminals and grounds.
2. Chk fusable link
3. chk for power at the red amp meter wire.

Chances are you will find the problem along the way.

 

[67Dart273]

This is what I would do to get started.

1. chk battery terminals and grounds.
2. Chk fusable link
3. chk for power at the red amp meter wire.

Chances are you will find the problem along the way.

Absolutely, but I will add CLEAN the battery terminals. Don't just "think" them "good." Actually remove, clean and reclamp them.

 

[pyrojim]

On the bright side, that's probably a good thing. Yes, all harness' are new including the dash.
Guess I'll work my way backwards!!
Thanks for all the help!
And, I did not by bypass the ammeter, I figured with all new harness' and relays on the headlights and top I wouldn't worry.
Again, thanks to all!

 

[BillGrissom]

If you don't have a multimeter with you (free coupon at HF), use the dome light as a poor-man's voltmeter. If that doesn't even light, you aren't getting 12 V into the cabin or at least after the headlamp switch and fusebox.

If you do the Mad Bypass under the hood, you will have two big 12 V feeds into the cabin, so double your chances, but your ammeter will no longer indicate. There is actually a way to do a bypass w/ a diode shunt and keep your ammeter active. I posted, but beyond most people here, plus the ammeter isn't required anyway. Manufacturers dropped them in the 1980's to save money and because Nancy-boy drivers didn't know how to read them anyway. Few can even change a tire today.

 

[pyrojim]

Well, checked there was power to the relay hot side, all good. Pulled the lights on, stuck my hand under the dash at the ammeter, felt around and the lights came on car started right up! Now I'm thinking, WTF?? I put a good squeeze on EVERYTHING and was very careful assembling the harness, etc. and putting in the dash! What can possibly be loose?? I've only got a few hundred miles on it!! ugh! Thanks again for the input!

 

[Dubob]

Still could be any of the three previously mentioned things, bulkhead connector, ammeter connections or welded splice where everything branches off black wire out of ammeter to feed everything. The splice may not be welded or soldered, depending on who made it. I found some things on the harness I bought from year one for my Demon that were questionable to me when I was modifying it for my purpose.

 

[TrailBeast]

Well, checked there was power to the relay hot side, all good. Pulled the lights on, stuck my hand under the dash at the ammeter, felt around and the lights came on car started right up! Now I'm thinking, WTF?? I put a good squeeze on EVERYTHING and was very careful assembling the harness, etc. and putting in the dash! What can possibly be loose?? I've only got a few hundred miles on it!! ugh! Thanks again for the input!

I'd put my money on the ammeter connections.

PS. Crimps suck IMO.
A good place for heat and corrosion to build up causing a lack of connection.

 

[BillGrissom]

Agreed. As post #2 shows, the cabin feed from the battery routes thru the ammeter first. Those stud connectors are prone to corrosion or loosening. Best to remove the dash and fix those (sandpaper, silicone grease). Of course, remove BATT- cable first to avoid inadvertent welding.