ignition switch
- Thread starter furyfrank
- Start date
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well tried new switch but what happened is the plastic connector that the wires go in broke apart, so any ideas I was going to connect the wires to the switch and put plastic tubing to insulate them any other ideas ?
OwdKasd
Well-Known Member
once you're sure of the connections, You could solder them and then use shrink tubes(available at Radio Shack and many other places). Since the plastic already broke apart this should be a good alternative.
well I back. I am not good on electrical problems but I know alot of you guys are. Checked the wires going to the broke connector and I am getting power to the red wire so I figured if I connected a remote start switch to the red and then tried all the other wires I should get a reaction from the starter, but nothing. Also I have a long black wire coming out of the fuse block and need to know where it goes ( the wiring diagram didn't help me ) Also if I hot wire the battery to the coil the engine runs. So any advise will help, you guys helped me before.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
If you post the year and model of your car there is a member on here that has a lot of the wiring diagrams on the net. I am terrible at names but he has a yellow Dart and I think is named Joe.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
could it be abodyjoe?
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Yes, I got it just before you posted it. Thanks Button pushed.
The black wire is not comming from but going to the fuse box. Some of the fuses get there power from another wire that is hot at all times, like dome lamp, brake lamps. The ignition switch sends power to the other duses like wipers, radio, via that black wire when the switch is in the on/run position.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
THis should help
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63DartA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63DartB.jpg
Go do diagram A and find the ignition switch towards the bottom of the page. Your switch should look just like the drawing. The connections are:
RED is unfused power coming IN to the switch from the ammeter circuit, a splice in the harness
BLACK is "switched" power going to the fuse box "acessories" buss
YELLOW goes through the bulkhead to one of the push-on connectors on the start relay
BROWN goes through the bulkhead to the coil + side of the ballast resistor, and provides hot 12V when cranking to the ignition system
DARK BLUE is ignition run and is NOT fused. It supples the gauges in the dash, the ignition system and regulator.
While you are going to this trouble you might consider pulling apart and inspecting the bulkhead connector. If you cannot get a replacement switch connector, I"d just use individual push on connectors.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63DartA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63DartB.jpg
Go do diagram A and find the ignition switch towards the bottom of the page. Your switch should look just like the drawing. The connections are:
RED is unfused power coming IN to the switch from the ammeter circuit, a splice in the harness
BLACK is "switched" power going to the fuse box "acessories" buss
YELLOW goes through the bulkhead to one of the push-on connectors on the start relay
BROWN goes through the bulkhead to the coil + side of the ballast resistor, and provides hot 12V when cranking to the ignition system
DARK BLUE is ignition run and is NOT fused. It supples the gauges in the dash, the ignition system and regulator.
While you are going to this trouble you might consider pulling apart and inspecting the bulkhead connector. If you cannot get a replacement switch connector, I"d just use individual push on connectors.
64Dart270
Space Cadet
I got an Autozone crapper and it came apart in a month. Got the Napa p/n ECH KS6528. 6 terminals as well. Ignored number 6. No problems. Never have any luck with electrical parts from Autozone. Napa has crap sometimes too but far less often.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Donnooo...... is it factory? Has it been cut? What size are the two wires?
According to the diagram, there are only two blacks to / from the fuse panel.
One a "big" black, is the one we are referring to, fed by the ignition switch Should be no10/12 size
The other, shown as black/ tr (tracer) goes to the heater blower switch. I'd guess it is smaller, no 14 or 16
Thanks for the help well here is another question. The car starts if I hot wire under the hood from the battery to the coil with a remote starter. But does nothing with the ignition swich connected inside the car,like I said I know power is coming into it. What in your opinioncould be the problem ?
Needing a hot jumper wire from battery to coil is a different problem regardless what ignition switch is used. Could be the ballast resistor or several other things.
Your ignition switch sends full 12 volts to the coil in the start position via one wire in the start position and via different wire in the run position.
With a jumper to the coil neither is diagnosed.
Your ignition switch sends full 12 volts to the coil in the start position via one wire in the start position and via different wire in the run position.
With a jumper to the coil neither is diagnosed.
Thanks for the reply, the only reason I hot wired it was to see if the engine would run (had a bad coil ) Could it be the bulkhead connector ? Like I said I am not good with electrical stuff. If the ballast resistor is bad ( which I had happen ) I thought the car would turn over but not start ?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
"does nothing" I assume you mean it will not crank using the key?
Go out under the hook, find the two "push on" terminals on the start relay. One goes to the bulkhead, is the "start" signal coming from the ignition switch. With a test lamp, it should be hot when you twist the key to start.
Pull the OTHER wire off which goes down to the neutral safety switch on the transmission. Clip the push on terminal which you now exposed to ground, and see if the engine cranks using the key. Be carefull that it's in park, as it should crank "in any gear."
If it cranks, you have wiring/ or neutral safety switch issues.
If it does not crank, and you have power at the other push-on terminal in "start," you have relay troubles This is assuming that you can operate the starter by jumpering across the two largest terminals on the relay.
This most certainly can be a bulkhead connector problem Please re-read what I posted above. Once again, there are THREE wires which have to do with starting/ running
The DARK BLUE goes from the switch, through the bulkhead, to the ballast and regulator
The BROWN goes from the switch through the bulkhead to the coil side of the ballast
The YELLOW goes from the switch through the bulkhead to one of the push on terminals of the start relay.
The DARK BLUE is ONLY POWERED with the switch in the "run" position
The YELLOW and the BROWN are separate circuits, but are BOTH hot only in the "start" position.
Go out under the hook, find the two "push on" terminals on the start relay. One goes to the bulkhead, is the "start" signal coming from the ignition switch. With a test lamp, it should be hot when you twist the key to start.
Pull the OTHER wire off which goes down to the neutral safety switch on the transmission. Clip the push on terminal which you now exposed to ground, and see if the engine cranks using the key. Be carefull that it's in park, as it should crank "in any gear."
If it cranks, you have wiring/ or neutral safety switch issues.
If it does not crank, and you have power at the other push-on terminal in "start," you have relay troubles This is assuming that you can operate the starter by jumpering across the two largest terminals on the relay.
This most certainly can be a bulkhead connector problem Please re-read what I posted above. Once again, there are THREE wires which have to do with starting/ running
The DARK BLUE goes from the switch, through the bulkhead, to the ballast and regulator
The BROWN goes from the switch through the bulkhead to the coil side of the ballast
The YELLOW goes from the switch through the bulkhead to one of the push on terminals of the start relay.
The DARK BLUE is ONLY POWERED with the switch in the "run" position
The YELLOW and the BROWN are separate circuits, but are BOTH hot only in the "start" position.
I guess I am a DUH as I was looking I noticed that the wire for the neutral safety switch was disconnected , Now on this car with pushbutton trans is it located on trans or on buttons and also if I ground it will the car start ( I know it will start in any gear )
Want to thank everyone for the help. Found out what was wrong the wire for the neutral safety switch ( or as the switch read ground ). Reconnected it and guess what car started. The wire was hanging down where I could not see it.:cheers::cheers:
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