ignitition wiring diagram

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furyfrank

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anyone have a wiring diagram that they could post, the switch has a broken connector and I have a red and black wire that I need to know where they go.
It is for a 63 dodge dart.
 
found a diagram and figured where the red wire goes but I have a wire coming out of the fuse block ( black ) and I need to know where it goes.
 
I have a long black wire coming out of the fuseblock, this is the one I have to figure where it goes.
 
OK I looked at the wiring diagram and I guess I am stupid but it didn't help me figure where the wire goes. ????
 
Well I thought I told you

Look at diagram "B" There are only two black wires. One should be large gauge, no 10 or 12. This is the power feed going INTO the fuse block which comes from the ignition switch accessory terminal

There should be a smaller one with tracer, no16 or 14, that goes to the heater switch

You have to jump back / forth between the diagrams. Best way is to print them out, tape them together, and use a pen/ pencil to draw across where the wires leave the page.

On diagram "A" the wire is 4th from the bottom, Black-tr
 
checked to see if I was getting voltage to the ignition switch ( red wire ) and I have 12 v there. checked the black wire voltage nothing. I see the black wire in the ignition switch and have to look to see where it is going. The problem is I turn the key to start and I get nothing if I go to the starter solonoid with a remote start the engine turns over so I connnected a jumper between the battery and coil and though it would start but if did not. so what am I doing wrong ? I hate these wiring diamgrams because some of the connection points they really do not show the right way.
 
Actually that diagram is fairly accurate

You said "checked the black wire nothing"

I assume you mean the black at the switch? This will ONLY have power with the switch in "run" or accessory. This wire feeds OUT of the ignition switch and INTO the fuse block for all the accessories that are switched with the ignition switch, IE radio, heater, wipers, etc

You need to try a few things and make a few checks

First I assume you have the ammeter either hooked up or the wires jumpered.

Put a test light on the RED to the switch. This is the MAIN FEED feeding ALL power from the ammeter circuit INTO the switch. It might be that somewhere this wire shows power "key off" and is losing power when you turn on the key, I.E. a bad connection in the RED wire

So put your meter or light on the RED at the switch, check for voltage.

Now turn the key to run, does the RED remain hot?

If so, see if the DARK BLUE (ignition run) is hot?

With the key first in "run" then in "accessory" test the black wire for power

Twist the key to "start" and hold it, while checking the BROWN and then the YELLOW

If all these check good, you have either a bulkhead connector problem or a bad neutral safety switch circuit

Inspect the connectors at the ignition switch. Make sure they are tight, are not burned, corroded, etc.

Take your bulkhead connector apart and inspect it for melting, burning, corrosion, looseness.

Take the ignition switch OUT. Get/ buy some nice big clip leads---the heaviest ones at Radio Shack are BARELY good enough, but they will work.

Take your switch out to a battery, and clip from battery hot to the "RED" terminal.

Find yourself a "heavy" load, like a spare headlight, or a junk stop/tail socket, and wire up both filaments of a stop/ tail bulb.

Now hook that from the different terminals of the switch to ground, and try 'em one at a time.

Look at the diagram-----

RED is BATTERY

Black is "accessory out" (hot in run or accessory)

Yellow is starter relay (hot in start)

Brown is ignition bypass (hot in start)

dark blue is "ignition run" (hot in run)
 
I want to thank you for the advise you have given me,what about when I jumpered the coil from the battery and no reaction also I pulled the switch away from the connector and used a jumper wire, I figured I would at least get the starter to turn over but nothing happened ???
 
Short the starter relay with a screwdriver, if that doesnt bump it, you got other issues. The large threaded nut stud to the closest contact right above it to the left.
 
furyfrank said:
I want to thank you for the advise you have given me,what about when I jumpered the coil from the battery and no reaction also I pulled the switch away from the connector and used a jumper wire, I figured I would at least get the starter to turn over but nothing happened ???
Click to expand...

Could be a few things. You need to troubleshoot one step at a time.

If the key is not providing power onto the YELLOW wire, or if the yellow is losing contact through the bulkhead, or if you have an automatic, it might be a start relay/ neutral safety switch issue.

Sounds to me like you have multiple problems

FIRST thing to do is figure out as I outlined above, if you have power TO the ignition switch on the red wire, and IF you have power OUT of the key (at the right positions of the key) to the dark blue, black, brown, yellow.
 
Let's run through this again.

You want the ignition switch out where you can get to the back

Turn the key to "run."

Take a light/ meter, and see if you power at RED

With the key in "run" you should have power on the big BLACK and the DARK BLUE

Now go out to the engine bay. You should have power out there at the DARK BLUE to the coil resistor

If so, so far so good. IF NOT stop right there and find out WHY

When you turned the key to "run" if the RED went "cold" then you have a problem with the RED feed. Either the ammeter circuit or the bulkhead connector is AFU or if this car has a fuse link, feeding the battery INTO the bulkhead, it may be bad

If you DO have power on the big BLACK and DARK BLUE but you do NOT have power out at the ballast resistor, then you have a BULKHEAD connector problem or other issue.

After that, check the brown and yellow. These should be hot with the key in START. If they are, get someone to hold the key to start, and go around to the 'bay. The COIL side of the ballast is where the brown goes, so see if it's got battery voltage there, key in "start." If so, so good. If you had it at the ign switch, and not at the ballast you have a BULKHEAD CONNECTOR problem, or a loose connection right at the switch

The YELLOW goes to one push-on connector of your start relay. Check this, key in "start." If you have power and the engine won't crank, either the relay is bad, or the neutral safety switch is not "made." Pull loose the "other" push-on terminal of the relay, hook your meter/ light to the exposed terminal of the relay, and with the key in start, you should have power. If so, clip lead this exposed relay terminal to ground, and the car should crank with the key. This points to the relay is OK, bad neutral safety or wiring.

If you clip lead the terminal mentioned to ground, AND you are getting power on the yellow AT THE RELAY and the engine won't crank, replace the relay.

This is easy. This is troubleshooting 101. Print out those diagrams, and go to MyMopar and download the '66 shop manual which is DIFFERENT but similar. It should give you some other ideas

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip
 
thanks for the info. I will do what you said, but the thing that is confusing me is when I put a remote starter on the starter relay the engine turns over so then I run a jumper from the battery to the coil and use the remote starter engine turns over but does not start. Am I wrong but shouldn't the engine start ?
 
Make sure there is spark going to your plugs, You may have gas fowled your plugs by now and even with a good spark it will not start on gas fouled plug's.
are you using the points or electronic ign ?
 
It is a point ignition but I should get a reaction from the engine like it wants to start but I get nothing like the engine is not getting any spark. Once I get this solved I will go to the ignition.
 
Easy. Clip a wire from the battery to the coil + Do NOT let it stay there for several minutes while you fiddle. You can burn the points, then they're done

Pull the coil wire and hold it near the block, and crank the engine. You should get lots of hot spark

if not, put your test lamp on the coil NEGATVE. You should be able to crank the engine and see the lamp flash on/ off indicating the points are getting power, and are opening/ closing.

If you are getting this on/ off points action, and no spark, it's either the condenser or the coil.

If you are NOT getting the points on/ off, double check that you have power to coil +

Check the wire from the coil to the distributor (low voltage wire)

Check the points for gap, are they burned, and wired right? I.E. is the points/ condenser/ wire terminal shorting to ground? Is the wire broken? Shorted where it enters the distributor?
 
I just checked around and after I check the dist. and coil I looked online and as crazy as it sounds I can buy a remanufactored dist. for less than the cost of the points.???
 
A question if I check the coil with a ohm meter what should it read, I have a spare coil and when I checked it the reading went to infinity, is this where it should be, if it is then I can check the coil on the car to see if it reads the same, does this sound reasonable ?
 
Just something to think about, I had a 63 Valiant that ran good but I wanted a new dist cap and new tune up on it, after new pluges,points,condenser,and a ready to replace Ballast resister in the clove boxe I installed everything :thumrigh:
It would not start..:eek:ops: All I did was put the old cap and rotor button back on and POFF she ran like a top I was sold a distributor cap and rotor that did not match,:wack: cap was to tall or the rotor was to short:hmph:

True story...
 
furyfrank said:
A question if I check the coil with a ohm meter what should it read, I have a spare coil and when I checked it the reading went to infinity, is this where it should be, if it is then I can check the coil on the car to see if it reads the same, does this sound reasonable ?
Click to expand...

Coils don't go bad all that often.

You should have a very low reading from the neg to pos studs. I would NOT get excited about the exact reading for a couple of reasons----

Most ohm meters are not accurate at low readings, it only takes a fraction of an ohm to show a shorted coil turn, so it will be difficult to tell a good primary from a bad

The coil tower to EITHER neg or pos studs should read a high value, and

NONE of the connections should read continuity to the housing (ground.)

YES you should be able to compare readings between two SIMILAR coils, but I would not get excited about a few hundred ohms difference in the secondary (high tension tower)

REMEMBER that to make spark, the points must open and close which you can easily check with a light

BUT you MUST have a good condenser. "New" does not mean "good." A points ignition will NOT make spark without a good condenser
 
OK here is what I done today, ran a wire from the battery positive to the coil positive, tried to start nothing, took the wire from the coil to the center of the dist. tried turning over the engine an looked at the wire no spark so I am thinking I have a bad coil.??
 
Well as I said you have to CHECK it, not just guess

You DO have points, right?

It COULD be a coil, that would be the LAST thing I'd suspect

Pull the cap

Hook your jumper from battery to coil +

Take your TEST LAMP and put it on the coil --

Crank the engine, see if the lamp blinks on/ off

If it does, replace the condenser

Repeat, check for spark

No spark? How are you checking?

Use your 12V test lamp "as a probe", ground the clip and hold it near the top of the coil tower.

Double check as before (now that you've REPLACED the condenser that the points are opening closing---so once again, put the lamp on coil -- and crank the engine. Lamp should blink.

So these things:

The points have been proved to open/ close

You replaced the condenser after no spark

You checked you are getting battery to coil positive.

If all of the above is done, and no spark right out of the coil, replace the coil
 
I know it has been a while since any posts on here. but it turns out the coil was bad, had a extra one and put it on and bingo it started. Thanks for all the help.
 
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