I have a 1971 Demon and did a 4 wheel disc power conversion setup from right stuff. They said everything was just bolt up which was partially bullshit. There is so many problems im ready to sell the car at this point with the amount of money i have invested. Disc kitswent on and bolted up no problem, but after that is where all the problems start. The power booster they sell comes with the wrong size petal bolt. Had to order a correct one. Next the brake line kit is a ******* mess. They have no diagram, instructions, or know how it is to be setup. I contact tech support they tell me there isnt any diagram. Ok so you sell a customized setup for conversion and no god damn instructions!? So i have them read where each bar code is labeled the best i get is rear or front. So i spend all day trying to figure out how the line are supposed to go and to me loose flexible lines not supported with a bracket seems sketchy. The front flexible lines dont go through the support brackets they are too big. Driver side hard line doesnt fit. And worsttttt of alllllll. The master cylinder lines they tell me that go to the original manual brakes distribution block have no scenario where they even come close. Every scenario has them pointing to the front, towards the hood or to the firewall. This is a complete mess i am at the point where im going to just undo everything to stock and loose thousands of dollars or sell it. How are people running rear disc kits did people not convert there lines and are using smaller drum brake lines? I dont get it because this setup pictured below seems sloppy.
Im convinced there is so much bullshit with these companies Right stuff is a joke
- Thread starter J.B.
- Start date
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Sorry for your pain....
InlineTube... spot on fit
InlineTube... spot on fit
Sorry you are experiencing this. I too have learned that the term "bolt on", is generally a crock of s<%t. I had excellent luck with Inline Tubes. For what is worth to you, every step of the way on my Dart has been 1 forward and 2 back, a fight all the way. The biggest piece of **** was the AAR fiberglass hood.
I can assure you, when it is done and you are enjoying it, you have the pleasure of knowing you built it, didn't buy it. Hell, for the money most of us have into these cars, we could have bought a new Challenger, but that isn't who we are.
I can assure you, when it is done and you are enjoying it, you have the pleasure of knowing you built it, didn't buy it. Hell, for the money most of us have into these cars, we could have bought a new Challenger, but that isn't who we are.
They're local, and the biggest dickheads I've dealt with.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Just my worthless opinion.....
I have never felt the need for power assist for the brakes on a hot rod
I have had power assist on a couple cars (stock engines however) that had too much assist, and did their best to throw me into the steering wheel
I'd get a non power master, matched to the brakes you have drum-drum, disc-drum, disc-disc, whatever, and then bend my own lines to suit. Just need a bender and a flaring tool.
I have never felt the need for power assist for the brakes on a hot rod
I have had power assist on a couple cars (stock engines however) that had too much assist, and did their best to throw me into the steering wheel
I'd get a non power master, matched to the brakes you have drum-drum, disc-drum, disc-disc, whatever, and then bend my own lines to suit. Just need a bender and a flaring tool.
I run manual also
First order of Business, you have a Disc/Drum master cylinder On your 4 wheel disc brake installation.
That's a big problem.
Better call Dr. Diff and get the correct master. He knows and will get you what you need.
And yes disc brake conversions are complicated to get right. Bolting on the parts is one thing, then getting it to stop smoothly and safely is another level of expertise.
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That's a big problem.
Better call Dr. Diff and get the correct master. He knows and will get you what you need.
And yes disc brake conversions are complicated to get right. Bolting on the parts is one thing, then getting it to stop smoothly and safely is another level of expertise.
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Willing to bet you bought a new master cylinder to fit your original '71 Demon Disc/Drum setup, then bolted that to your new 4 wheel disc brake setup.
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The power booster kit is a disc power booster conversion from rightstuff
I bet those lines are bent for shipping purposes.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Chiiiiiiiiiiiillllllllllll.
It's a car. Man made it, man can fix it. Let's see some pictures of these lines.
It's irritating to spend money and waste your free time. Getting wound up only beats up the guy hitting the limiter. As suggested straighten the 180° bends that are used for shipping. Whatever you do don't sell car or pummel it with axe!
It's a car. Man made it, man can fix it. Let's see some pictures of these lines.
It's irritating to spend money and waste your free time. Getting wound up only beats up the guy hitting the limiter. As suggested straighten the 180° bends that are used for shipping. Whatever you do don't sell car or pummel it with axe!
Those master cylinder lines are completely wrong. Doesn’t matter which master cylinder it is, completely wrong.
Heck they’re even wrong for “shipping”, they’d be shorter if they were bent correctly. I’ve bought a few lines from InlineTube, the shipping bends are extra bends and are clearly marked. Those master cylinder lines are missing bends they’d need to have.
I’d send them the whole mess back and buy a kit from @DoctorDiff. What you’ve got there isn’t worth the effort.
Heck they’re even wrong for “shipping”, they’d be shorter if they were bent correctly. I’ve bought a few lines from InlineTube, the shipping bends are extra bends and are clearly marked. Those master cylinder lines are missing bends they’d need to have.
I’d send them the whole mess back and buy a kit from @DoctorDiff. What you’ve got there isn’t worth the effort.
Trying my best need pics of brake line setups and intermediate line photos, this is an example how am I supposed to secure flexible hose eithkut a braket that wanst in kit
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Being more race oriented I would use a stainless zip tie or two. That or summit and speedway sell brackets.
Hotrodding can be really irritating especially considering that ee do it for "relaxation". My car pretty much hates me right up until everything comes together and we spend a night out dancing.
You are most of the way done so ther is that to consider.
Hotrodding can be really irritating especially considering that ee do it for "relaxation". My car pretty much hates me right up until everything comes together and we spend a night out dancing.
You are most of the way done so ther is that to consider.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
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your first mistake was thinking anything bolt on is actually bolt on.
your second mistake was ordering from rightstuff with their chevy bullshit.
your second mistake was ordering from rightstuff with their chevy bullshit.
I did new brake lines and when they were shipped and bent there was a piece of tape to show where to unbend it. I don't remember whether it was in line or the right stuff.
That's kinda what I was thinkin.
So somebody posted a picture of the line set, and now it has disappeared. If the picture is still around here is a description of where they all go:
Long line through the middle and up to the right goes from separate proportioning valve to the rear axle
two small lines right bottom are from the distribution block to the master cylinder
line with half moon at the bottom on the left goes from the "T" on the rear axle to the passenger caliper
Top line on left goes from distribution block across the firewall to the passenger front caliper
small line in the middle on the left goes from the distribution block to the driver front caliper
and the small straight line in the upper middle left (only one left now) goes from the distribution block to the proportioning valve
I wish I knew how to draw on the picture and I could have numbered the lines
Long line through the middle and up to the right goes from separate proportioning valve to the rear axle
two small lines right bottom are from the distribution block to the master cylinder
line with half moon at the bottom on the left goes from the "T" on the rear axle to the passenger caliper
Top line on left goes from distribution block across the firewall to the passenger front caliper
small line in the middle on the left goes from the distribution block to the driver front caliper
and the small straight line in the upper middle left (only one left now) goes from the distribution block to the proportioning valve
I wish I knew how to draw on the picture and I could have numbered the lines
I'm not convinced that the master cylinder lines are wrong - the long run just out of the master fitting is to run the lines back toward the firewall (because of the power booster and bracket) then the loop and down to the distribution block. are the lines that you bought original mild steel or stainless?
1971 mopar A body Original Equipment master cylinder.
(for disc / drum)
Not for 4 wheel disc brakes.
For converting from 4 wheel drum brakes to front disc brakes and rear drum brakes (factory application).
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(for disc / drum)
Not for 4 wheel disc brakes.
For converting from 4 wheel drum brakes to front disc brakes and rear drum brakes (factory application).
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In Line did on mine.
This^^^ is probably an accurate description of what's goin on. Everything is so Chevy oriented it spills over into everything else and ruins other applications.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
OK, @J.B., I totally understand your frustration. I have been there. I can guarantee you that you can solve this after you take a dr\eep breath and chill a bit. I HAVE been there. I got really pissed off over something that was not as advertised/expected, took a chill pill (usually forced on me by my lovely wife of 52 years, Karen) and then fixed it. I have found that when a company says, "Bolt On", it can mean anything from "It bolts right on exactly like a factory part with no tweaking" to "If you use the correct wrench, these parts should eventually bolt on. Some adjusting, cutting and bending may be required". Sloppy doesn't even come close to describing that mess. The way I see it, you have three options.
1. Call up Right Stuff and explain your situation. Be nice! Ask the guy what the deal is with those 'Crazy' brake lines. Ask him if he would be happy receiving that jumbled mess if he was expecting parts literally ready to bolt on. Tel them you expect them to make the brake lines the "Right Stuff".
2. Alter (bend) the lines to make them work. IF the end connections all thread properly into where they belong, this is a viable alternative. You WILL need a decent tube bender.
3. Make your own tubes from scratch. You WILL need a good tubing bender and a good and a good flaring tool. Eastwood sells a decent flaring tool. I have done it successively several times.
1. Call up Right Stuff and explain your situation. Be nice! Ask the guy what the deal is with those 'Crazy' brake lines. Ask him if he would be happy receiving that jumbled mess if he was expecting parts literally ready to bolt on. Tel them you expect them to make the brake lines the "Right Stuff".
2. Alter (bend) the lines to make them work. IF the end connections all thread properly into where they belong, this is a viable alternative. You WILL need a decent tube bender.
3. Make your own tubes from scratch. You WILL need a good tubing bender and a good and a good flaring tool. Eastwood sells a decent flaring tool. I have done it successively several times.
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