Im convinced there is so much bullshit with these companies Right stuff is a joke
- Thread starter J.B.
- Start date
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Most of the time, you will with a 4 wheel disc arrangement given the large size of the caliper pistons.
I ran one for years. It was not a problem but my rear brakes had a small caliper size. A larger bore requires moving a greater volume of fluid but if you keep an eye on the fluid level, it isn't a problem.
This is the clearest and most sensible fact of this thread as well as others where someone gets online to bad mouth a company.
I'm not making excuses for these companies but it has to be understood that few aftermarket parts are a direct fit with no obstructions. I've done two Tremec 5 speed conversions in B body cars and the tweaks, adjustments, cutting and welding is needed with every installation.
I agree...The companies NEED to step it up with their instructions. They are often lazy and worthless in that regard.
The Tremec TKO and TKX transmissions are different in shape yet the instructions from Silver Sport include the same template on where to cut the floor for clearance. The TKX requires only a small hole for the shifter area so cutting it like you would for a TKO is more than needed and more to patch and cover with carpet.
My point is that I agree that these companies are doing a **** job when it comes to explaining how to assemble or install but you do need to be ready to make adjustments along the way.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I've got two cars with aftermarket discs on all four, and both stop well, but both wear 14x32 slicks.
In the first pic, the coil around the line is almost always for a location that requires that portion of the line to run very close to another part it could rub on, or be pinched between, such as between the inner fender and the frame horn.
****update i got the top lines bent to work for the distribution block to master cylinder now im scratching my head because someone said my master cylinder is disc drum, i called right stuff they said the master cylinders are the same for disc from or disc/disc kits the only difference is it comes with a rear proportioning valve when you order disc disc which is what i have but the reservoirs inside are bot equal nut offset is this accurate and ok? They told me all lines go to the original drum proportioning valve which they are all connected now, then the disc proportioning valve goes in the rear in between the intermediate feed and rear feed.
There are two master cylinder power kits the master cylinder bore set i have is 1-1/16” bore or the other is 15/16” bore. I have large bore and rod version dont see why that doesnt work someone said i have a drum master cylinder so not sure ehat to believe is going on here
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Looks like the other good people here are helping out, only advice I can give for future mods to your Mopar is to go with smaller companies that specialize in Mopar-specific parts and kits. You won't see them advertised much and the Chevy mouth-breathers will usually have never heard of them but the "little guys" have a lot more to lose by having a dissatisfied customer. Doctor Diff is my go-to for brakes and driveline stuff, kits are actually complete with correct parts and his customer service is great.
I suspect that comment was made because of the 2 different sized reservoirs on your master. Disk brakes use more fluid as it fills the caliper piston cavity as the pads wear down (master level drops). That's why that reservoir is larger. When guys add rear disks from a doner vehicle (Jeep for example) they typically use the same master, but remove the residual valve from the port of the master that feeds the rear brakes. If that is left in, I believe that the new rear calipers either don't release, or release slowly. A new proportioning valve (maybe adjustable) is added to balance out the braking percentages between the front and rear because of the new disks.
I would expect that the master that you received in your kit contains no residual valve for the rear brakes, so you should be good there. Just keep an eye on the fluid level in the small chamber over time as the brakes wear.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
was thinking the same however Im assuming they bought it figuring its pre bent etc. I have tube benders and flare tools but Id go to the parts house buy tubing and make my own ...alot more inexpensive.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Well, I just ordered $300 worth of crap from Classic Insustries well see how that turns out...$300 didnt buy much either...
Why? Classic Industries is terrible. For price, for customer service, all of it. And there’s literally nothing they sell that you can’t get from a better seller.
If you’re ordering brake stuff, DoctorDiff sells everything you need. Some of his parts are a little more expensive, but it’s because they’re higher quality.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Im putting my interior together they it ended up being scrwew kits a rubber parts kit sill plates , a hog ring set for the upholstery etc. basically a box of little stuff. I dunno its 3 hundred not alot of money these days or more specifically it doesnt buy much. I remember a frind buying alot of things for his chevy there years ago I neve rknew thay had Mopar stuff tobe honest. I cant wait to see the parts if they are good or cheap knock offs...
I agree. I bought all the components, and a good friend and I plumbed the whole car. The hardest part, was getting the coiled tubing straight enough for my anal brain. Strange put the axle vent on the right side tube, so I had to move everything over to that side. The plumbing from the master goes into the interior for the prop-valve and Line-lock. I also always run the front cross-over line in the interior.
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harrisonm
Well-Known Member
LOL, I DID do that once.
junkyardhero
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you're fibbing.
we've all done it once-- that we'll admit to... it's all the other times that we curse and don't tell anybody that we did!
lol. I did it a few times back in the 70s.
The picture in #40 shows the stand off on the axle housing for the line/flex hose junction. You have to shorten the stock line. If a flange is on the bottom of that stand off, you can use a large hose clamp to attach it to the axle housing, no welding. Did mine that way. Sounds like the other end of the car is for the starship Enterprise. Sorry no pictures, car is in winter storage. I agree, you don't need power brakes. If Right Stuff can't resolve their problem, see if they will let you return it and go to Dr Diff. You are probably a little deeper into it than that. You still will have some work to to do.
Sorry, been here in your spot with other things.
Sorry, been here in your spot with other things.
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Here's a good read if you haven't already
Disc-O-Tech
Disc-O-Tech
Update******
I contacted Doctor Diff, I ordered their 4 wheel disc aluminum master cylinder with 1-1/32” bore size per their recommendation for use with power booster. They said the proportioning valve in 4 wheel disc brake is recommended as a fail safe just in case more pressure happens for some reason during rapid braking. So i will be adding the adjustable to the rear line coming off the master cylinder connecting to rear feed line. Thank you everyone for you input as always.
I contacted Doctor Diff, I ordered their 4 wheel disc aluminum master cylinder with 1-1/32” bore size per their recommendation for use with power booster. They said the proportioning valve in 4 wheel disc brake is recommended as a fail safe just in case more pressure happens for some reason during rapid braking. So i will be adding the adjustable to the rear line coming off the master cylinder connecting to rear feed line. Thank you everyone for you input as always.
I'm not sure what you're saying...but I don't attach stuff to my car with hose clamps.....or duct-tape. There are no rubber lines on the car.
I am saying that the stand that your hard brake line junctions with the flexible line from the caliper. That stand can be attached to the housing with a large hose clamp if it has a flange on it. Been on my car for 2 years, just as tight as the day I installed it. That stand would not have to be welded on, it's an option. A hot rod shop suggested it to me. In the past, racing, have had a lot of duct tape on a race car too.
Here we go again.
Here we go again.
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