Im in a jam.....

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pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
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Modding my kids Razor Powerrider 360 motorized drift trike. The controller burned out so I got to rig up something as everyone is backordered. Its a 1 speed controller, just an on and an off with a brake "interrupt" and I don't need the charging circuit as I charge with an external battery charger straight to the battery.
razor-power-rider-360-wiring-diagram.jpg


Can i Just rig a 10A 12vDC relay between the motor and the battery? Run the same 12V to the switch portion and then run the 12V straight to the motor? Its a 100W motor @ 12V so it draws ~8A. The battery pack is a 12V 24Ah. My thought is a 10A 12vDC relay with battery (87B) to motor (blue box 30H pin) connection controlled by a 12V feed through the brake switch (normally closed) to the "Go" button (normally open) and then to the pin 86S?
(The brake lever opens and cuts power to the relay) Am I gonna burn something down? I think this is a common type of control circuit ie. same as lights, horn or fuel pump. Heck, would a horn relay work?

relay.jpg
 
30 is power in, 87's are power out. They can work backwards as well depending on the relay. I'd flip the 30 and 87 in your schematic and give it a try.

If all it is is an on/off deal, that should work.
 
pishta said:
Modding my kids Razor Powerrider 360 motorized drift trike. The controller burned out so I got to rig up something as everyone is backordered. Its a 1 speed controller, just an on and an off with a brake "interrupt" and I don't need the charging circuit as I charge with an external battery charger straight to the battery.
View attachment 1715541332

Can i Just rig a 10A 12vDC relay between the motor and the battery? Run the same 12V to the switch portion and then run the 12V straight to the motor? Its a 100W motor @ 12V so it draws ~8A. The battery pack is a 12V 24Ah. My thought is a 10A 12vDC relay with battery (87B) to motor (blue box 30H pin) connection controlled by a 12V feed through the brake switch (normally closed) to the "Go" button (normally open) and then to the pin 86S?
(The brake lever opens and cuts power to the relay) Am I gonna burn something down? I think this is a common type of control circuit ie. same as lights, horn or fuel pump. Heck, would a horn relay work?

View attachment 1715541331
Click to expand...

You may need a big resistor on the brake circuit.
Dynamic braking.
 
jimjimjimmy said:
any pictures of this drift trike ???
Click to expand...
c7b5716c-4978-4026-a7a3-c5503e9137ba._CR0,10,1100,340_PT0_SX970__.jpg


casters on back swing out in turns. you can 'drift' around a corner but you usually spin out if you enter too fast. its a 12V 100w motor with a chain drive but it actually pulled me around...of course the 40 lb 5 year old who can barely reach the pegs makes it pretty snappy. I have to mount the 2 9Ah batteries behind the seat as the 4.5Ah batter mounted in the fairing is bad and is a half size.
 
I would use "more relay." Those motors can draw A LOT more at stall/ launch. Some of the "conventional appearing" bosch pattern relays are only NO, have not NC contacts, and the terminal that would be NC is actually doubled up for more current. I think I've seen the larger ones?? up through 40 or so

What Crackedback was getting at: Be careful with the coil as most of them have spike diodes internally. Some relays the diodes are reversed. so be sure you get the polarity right or the coil will act as a dead short.

Other than that I'd think it would work. Only other issue is whether you did have (with the controller) dynamic braking and whether you'd want that.

An example: The 24V wheelchair systems we build draw "about" 20-24A with the joystick firewalled and at max speed. But if you drive the thing against a stop and firewall the stick, they can pull OVER 200A at stall!!!! This of course is two motors, and these are "fast" chairs.
 
No dynamic braking as far as i can tell, its just a 2 lead cabke running from the small drum brake lever i guess i should confirm its a NC switch only and not some sort of regenerative braking system. How much amps can a horn relay take? Just a wild idea...

30A 12v SPST NO...screw base... 6 bucks. With a strip of spade connectors.

20200606_161442.jpg
 
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If you look around you can find the bosch type I'm talking about. Some of them have heavier terminals. Trouble with a horn relay they are not continuous duty, although I realize this is not exactly a "continuous duty" application. Also I have no idea what the current rating of horn relays are. I'd sooner gamble on a Mopar starter relay instead.

This here is the heavy duty setup I was referring to. Maybe you can get somewhere from this

IZTOSS? 4 Pin Car Auto Relay 24v 80A with Bosch Style S Relay Harness Socket 5-Pack [3Qshs0113380] - $33.99

Another

V23232-D0001-X001 pdf, V23232-D0001-X001 description, V23232-D0001-X001 datasheets, V23232-D0001-X001 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
 
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Well, that relay I bought worked like a charm! The thing kicks *** now with 2 9Ah batteries in parallel instead of the wimpy 4.5Ah that was dust anyway, probably 9-10 volt output under load. Ended up moving the seat forward (just using 2 bolts now instead of the 4) and mounting the batteries behind the seat on a round frame rail, Ill have to rig up a battery tray as they are not real stable back there but they held through a few hard spins. Kid is ear to ear smiles now but its too dark to ride so well hit it tomorrow. Charging will be just unplugging battery harness and charging by car charger. The brake turned out to be a NO switch so I could not incorporate it into the throttle button but not a big issue, he doesn't use the brakes anyway! :D
 
One thought man, you might want to incorporate a fail safe of some sort. If that relay welds shut I guess he can jump?
 
like a dead man switch? If it sticks WOT, you can just turn it and go into a spin, enough to stop the forward motion of the tire as the motor is not that torquey. The relay in the burned motor control was a tiny 20A PCB mount relay the size of a Vegas dice, and only 1 little surface mount component let the smoke out. It was an 8 pin chip but that's all I could tell you as it had turned to ash.
 
I could rig a cheap $9 remote control car on/off relay into the throttle feed and open in with a click of the 1 button remote from <20 feet away. Naah...Let him roll it a few times....builds character. How do you wire up an illuminated switch? 1-2~3 is the markings with 3 showing a resistor sign (~) does that lead go to the opposite side of the load (motor) I dont think I can use that as wired as the entire circuit is now an on/off , no 'standby' as the controller would be in a state of when idle and the power switch is closed. I think it was more of an isolation switch for the charger circuit so the charger would not go through the controller? Whatever, it works, but it would be a good thing to know for dash indicators.
 
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I always have to "play" with illuminated switches. Usually 3 terminal, one is a ground for the illumination. So of course the power has to go to the terminal unconnected with the illumination, and if the illumination is a diode, it all must be proper polarity. You cannot blow up an LED by reversing it, it simply won't light
 
yes conflicting reports on how they are wired, some even say the markings are wrong on the switched they got. You'd think the power light would just be a ground off the 3rd prong as constant power is to 1 and bridged (closed switch) power is to 2, so 2+3 would be logical light circuit but it didnt seem to be that way. All over the place.....
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connect-lighted-rocker-switch-1.4-800x800.jpg


A/C circuit

19SCvZK.png
 
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