I'm runnin on pump gas now!

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cudaspaz

cudaspaz

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I decided to do some experimentation with the 11.0-1 360 that I have been running 100-110 octane in it since I bought it.

I started out today with an almost empty tank and filled it with the 93 octane pump gas and a bottle of lucas octane boost.

I did not mess with the timing at all.

It ran fine on start up and warm up and at higher, steady rpm. I took a few test drives, still fine.

I decided to take it on a 60 mile round trip once I was sure the engine did not need any timing adjustments, but I brought my tools and timing light with me just in case, but I had plenty of power, no sputtering or spark knock at all at idle, partial or heavy throttle.
I did not notice any performance loss at all.

I actually think I got much, much better gas mileage too for some reason.

I'm liking this lucas stuff, but I am gonna run some leaded 110 in it from time to time, and maybe buy 5 gallons of it and put a gallon or so in at each fill up, but so far so good.
 
To much octane will actuallly cause a power loss and make a cr slower in the 1/4. Now try it without octane boost.
Aluminum heads?
 
I run Shell 91 octane in my stroked 340(372)pushing 452hp without any problems!It runs better on the 91 Shell than it does on Sunoco Gold 93.
 
I run my duster on 93 pump gas with either the 10.7 to 1 360,or the 11 to 1 416 in it..but i do add about 5 gallons of 110 every trip to the track...
 
In BC we have Chevron 94, which is excellent. I have run 12.7/1 on it with a big cam (278/286 @ .050) tight quench, cold air/intake.
 
rumblefish360 said:
To much octane will actuallly cause a power loss and make a cr slower in the 1/4. Now try it without octane boost.
Aluminum heads?
Click to expand...
My thinking too, try it without the octane booster. Depending on the rest of the car setup (cam timing, gearing, underhood/cold air, blocked heat risers, piston/head clearance) you are probably fine. As I tried to point out to another member on here, more octane=slower burn rate.
 
george said:
My thinking too, try it without the octane booster. Depending on the rest of the car setup (cam timing, gearing, underhood/cold air, blocked heat risers, piston/head clearance) you are probably fine. As I tried to point out to another member on here, more octane=slower burn rate.
Click to expand...

I was just going by the recommendation from the engine builder.
I am currently at 35 deg total timing, but he suggested backing off to 30 total with pump gas and octane boost, but I did not see the need due to how well it sounded and performed with pump gas, octane boost and NOT changing the timing.

Here are the specs:

78' 360 .030 over 11.0-1 MP forged pistons, Comp 260/260 duration @ .050 .555/.555 lift solid cam, comp timing set, MP cast crank, MP rods w ARP bolts.
Fully ported J-style heads with 2.055/1.60 11/32 SS valves flows 261/175 CFM, chrome moly retainers and correct srpings.
Harland sharp aluminum 1.5 roller rockers.
Holley strip dominatrix single plane intake.
Modified holley 800 CFM DP.
Balanced and blueprinted, 441 HP @ 6100 RPM and 429 LB FT torque@ 5000 RPM
 
Cold air will make a big difference in octane requirements, & I havent used the gas in your area, but I am betting this will be fine without the octane booster, assuming a decent rear gear. You may have trouble if you are running a 3.55, but if you have 4.10s or better, it should be fine. Try it out.

Keep in mind, you dont necessarily have to run a hood scoop to run outside air, and it REALLY helps with the octane requirement in my experience, makes a LOT more power for the minimal expense too. Keeping heat out of the induction tract is CRITICAL to running high compression on pump gas, even putting a anti-heat coating on the face of the intake valve helps.
 
I've got a hemi hood scoop on the car so plenty of fresh air to breathe, and I'm running 3.23 gears which turn nicely with my low ratio first gear.

Plenty of speed out of the hole and 80 mph on the highway is very doable.
 
You might have a little trouble with it with 3.23s in it. watch it VERY closely after the 2-3 shift at WOT, or at part throttle, heavy load. More gear is better, from an octane tolerance standpoint.
 
Follow up with us after you try this out. I'll be interested to hear how it worked out.By the way, I have been assuming its an automatic?
 
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