Indy/RHS X HEADS GASKET UPDATE

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BJR Racing said:
Louis,
From what I see the Fel Pro looks to have the same problem but on the oppsite water port. If thats the Fel Pro with the blue sealing ring.
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Well, I have been starring at this thing now for a few days very closely. The Felpro will seal around all the water ports. I have looked at it up to sideways unless I am missing something and Hughes, Don at FBO and Indy don't know what the heck they are talking about??

Hughes and Indy have running engines with these gaskets 519SD Perma Torque, that is what they say anyway...........take that for what it is worth...
 
can I used the same kind of head gaskets im using with my magnum heads or is there something different on these heads?
 
Interesting, if it is the same copy as the stock magnum, the head gasket from the felpro gasket kit should work
 
I do and I'll try to get a picture today, but I have alot going on right at the moment.
 
OK, Here is the stock magnum head and a 1008 Fel-Pro gasket. The issue looks to be the same with both the steel gasket that Louis has and the other Fel-Pro gasket he has. The 1008 is for a std LA engine and looks like the 519 gasket he has already except for the blue signature where the head and the block actually meet up.

Stock Magnum head and 1008 Fel-Pro gasket 001.jpg


Stock Magnum head and 1008 Fel-Pro gasket 002.jpg


Stock Magnum head and 1008 Fel-Pro gasket 003.jpg


Stock Magnum head and 1008 Fel-Pro gasket 004.jpg
 
Bobby,

Looks like the 1008 Gasket will work with these heads per the pictures and our conversation earlier..........Just want to clarify to all the other guys that the 1008 gaskets are .039 thick which would only give me .022 clearance before smacking the head. This is why I need to go with the 519SD which are .054 thick which will get me in the .037 range before smacking the head with the pistons. Or an MLS gasket that will work that is in in the range as far as thickness goes.
 
Hi Mad dart, is that a problem with the heads being bolted onto a later 360 block or any 360? It appears that the RhS castings are the same between the LA vs. later Magnum? Just differences in the rocker gear and covers. Also im just curious whats your compression going to be? joe
 
Mad Dart said:
Bobby,

Looks like the 1008 Gasket will work with these heads per the pictures and our conversation earlier..........Just want to clarify to all the other guys that the 1008 gaskets are .039 thick which would only give me .022 clearance before smacking the head. This is why I need to go with the 519SD which are .054 thick which will get me in the .037 range before smacking the head with the pistons. Or an MLS gasket that will work that is in in the range as far as thickness goes.
Click to expand...

Just logged on and saw this, and was gonna say the same thing...

Except 'besides the thickness issue', I would rather go with the 1008 or a print o seal style than the sealing bead style like the black w/ blue seal like you have in the pic because the seal beads lead off of the heads surface all together, it seems.

But....
 
w2360Duster said:
Hi Mad dart, is that a problem with the heads being bolted onto a later 360 block or any 360? It appears that the RhS castings are the same between the LA vs. later Magnum? Just differences in the rocker gear and covers. Also im just curious whats your compression going to be? joe
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11.25:1 , I am having the heads milled down around .020 to bring the Heads from 64cc after BJR's work to around 59cc. Might have to mill the intake side of the M1 also. I will see here real soon. Cylinder pressure should be around 195 - 205...

The reason I want an MLS gasket is for the future use of a 200 shot of NOS.
Not that I will hit it right away, just want to be prepared. And not cringe when I hit the button. Or have the great possibility of replacing head gaskets. I am more than likely being overly cautious!!!!!!!!
 
w2360Duster said:
Hi Mad dart, is that a problem with the heads being bolted onto a later 360 block or any 360? It appears that the RhS castings are the same between the LA vs. later Magnum? Just differences in the rocker gear and covers. Also im just curious whats your compression going to be? joe
Click to expand...

The water ports are opened up a little more on the RHS than the Magnum or LA head it seems. Other wise the Cometics would work just fine!
 
Mad Dart said:
11.25:1 , I am having the heads milled down around .020 to bring the Heads from 64cc after BJR's work to around 59cc. Might have to mill the intake side of the M1 also. I will see here real soon. Cylinder pressure should be around 195 - 205...

The reason I want an MLS gasket is for the future use of a 200 shot of NOS.
Not that I will hit it right away, just want to be prepared. And not cringe when I hit the button. Or have the great possibility of replacing head gaskets. I am more than likely being overly cautious!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Nitrous inevitably breaks things & /or so hard on parts that they just don't last, but'll last longer if built solely for nitrous.

My buddy runs 11.2 w/closed chambers & solid roller in his 451 and tuned it to run on 87 octane, and it's damn fast in that road runner.

You'd be surprised how comp you can get away with on the perma torques.
However if someone gets stupid with the timing, they'll pop.

It's all about knowing.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Just logged on and saw this, and was gonna say the same thing...

Except 'besides the thickness issue', I would rather go with the 1008 or a print o seal style than the sealing bead style like the black w/ blue seal like you have in the pic because the seal beads lead off of the heads surface all together, it seems.

But....
Click to expand...

By looking at the 1008 vs the 519SD gasket that I have, it seems that there is MORE metal around the cylinders which I tend to like if I end up using them which will make me feel safer I guess?
The SD in the gasket is supposed to stand for SUPER DUTY if that means anything and they cost more than the 1008 for some reason??

I just need to put the darn thing together and RUN the Piss out of it!!!

Cant wait!!!
 
I wouldn't mill the intake or it'll be a 1 off piece for that motor only.
Mill the intake face of the heads cause thats what will be screwed up after milling the deck .020 or so thou.
Not that in some cases in isn't a good idea, but I would say thats when the heads are already bolted on and you cant afford the time/head gaskets.jmo
 
Mad Dart said:
By looking at the 1008 vs the 519SD gasket that I have, it seems that there is MORE metal around the cylinders which I tend to like if I end up using them which will make me feel safer I guess?
The SD in the gasket is supposed to stand for SUPER DUTY if that means anything and they cost more than the 1008 for some reason??

I just need to put the darn thing together and RUN the Piss out of it!!!

Cant wait!!!
Click to expand...

cool.

The 1008's for 10.1 +comp

The metal ring, not that it doesn't have integral value, is just a flame ring that if wasn't there the flame/combustion would burn away the gasket.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Nitrous inevitably breaks things & /or so hard on parts that they just don't last, but'll last longer if built solely for nitrous.

My buddy runs 11.2 w/closed chambers & solid roller in his 451 and tuned it to run on 87 octane, and it's damn fast in that road runner.

You'd be surprised how comp you can get away with on the perma torques.
However if someone gets stupid with the timing, they'll pop.

It's all about knowing.
Click to expand...

I hear you loud and clear. I am proceeding forward at this point with what I have........ran into other issues with the guide plates...ordered adjustable ones from Doug Herbert Racing, If those dont work out I will be forced to use these that are on page 6 of this flyer and trash the guide plate scenario, of course I will run the girdles with them if I have to go this route, http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/currentflyer.php .........I don't like magnum heads. I WILL NOT USE THEM AGAIN!!!!

I guess I may start another post called THE GUIDE PLATE JOURNEY with INDY/RHS HEADS!!

Gotta laugh...
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
BTW if one of the 2 is a seemingly better choice, yet quench distance is a concern at .039.... why are you milling the heads more and running a thicker gasket?
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My pistons are out of the hole .017, so I NEED the thicker gasket regardless.
I am only milling the heads to increase the compression which in turn will increase the cylinder pressure to work better with my cam choice is all.
 
I started with a BASTARD block that was decked incorrectly to begin with. This is why it ended up like this in the first place!
 
Mad Dart said:
My pistons are out of the hole .017, so I NEED the thicker gasket regardless.
I am only milling the heads to increase the compression which in turn will increase the cylinder pressure to work better with my cam choice is all.
Click to expand...

yeah I forgot about the closed chamber part, too many cxold 1s
 
Louis,
.020 should be fine without cutting the intake or the intake side of the heads, but I consider this to be the max without cutting the intake side of the heads or the manifold and still make it bolt up and work. At .030 I cut .030 off the intake side of the heads and this makes the heads seem like they have been trued up with a .005-.010 cut and things still line up and work like they should. Also on your heads they use a 5/16 bolt and have 3/8 or larger holes so the only thing that would concern me is a minor miss alignment of the ports. But most people don't get the gaskets aligned right anyway so it's not much of a problem. Heck the factory miss' by more than that stock. IMO I would go for it, but check the intake for fitment before bolting it all together. At the end rails and intake surfaces. I think that you'll be OK.
 
BJR Racing said:
Louis,
.020 should be fine without cutting the intake or the intake side of the heads, but I consider this to be the max without cutting the intake side of the heads or the manifold and still make it bolt up and work. At .030 I cut .030 off the intake side of the heads and this makes the heads seem like they have been trued up with a .005-.010 cut and things still line up and work like they should. Also on your heads they use a 5/16 bolt and have 3/8 or larger holes so the only thing that would concern me is a minor miss alignment of the ports. But most people don't get the gaskets aligned right anyway so it's not much of a problem. Heck the factory miss' by more than that stock. IMO I would go for it, but check the intake for fitment before bolting it all together. At the end rails and intake surfaces. I think that you'll be OK.
Click to expand...

Bobby,

That is the plan. I will have the .020 cut off to bring the CC down a bit like explained earlier. Then I will set everything on the motor and check the alignment before final installation, just to be sure.

I already ordered the matching ARP 5/16 bolts for the intake.
 
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