Initial upper control arm setting for newly rebuilt front suspension

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Not sure on how scientific it is, but I draw a string from the back tires toward the front and adjust the toe around 1/8 of an inch. Been driving that way for over 20 years on the roadway, not at the track and the tires seem to be wearing well. I do need to replace them now, due to their age, not wear.

The string method works just fine! Like anything some practice and some patience and it can be accurate enough to get the toe where it needs to be.

It does require the set up to be accurate, and depending on your front and rear track widths that can require some allowances. Biggest thing is a small error at the rear of the car can result in a large error at the front.
 
Does the left and right caster and camber have to be the same ?
This depends on the roads that you travel, here in corn and bean land most of the secondary roads are crowned blacktop roads. Camber would be set up a little higher on the driver's side then on the passenger side. Me personally I set them even because traffic permitting, I drive down the center of the blacktop. Caster should always be the same number.
If not whats the max difference from side to side.
For camber 3/4 of a degree difference, caster should be the same left and right side. The car's steering will always follow the larger number.
 

This depends on the roads that you travel, here in corn and bean land most of the secondary roads are crowned blacktop roads. Camber would be set up a little higher on the driver's side then on the passenger side. Me personally I set them even because traffic permitting, I drive down the center of the blacktop. Caster should always be the same number.

For camber 3/4 of a degree difference, caster should be the same left and right side. The car's steering will always follow the larger number.
If you say is correct, then the factory specs could be off. How would the factory know what type of road the auto is being used on. I always let my tire wear tell me what the adjustments are to be.
 
Most if not all of the later cars are set for road crown. If you wait to read tire wear, you may have wasted tire life. If you like to read your tires that way I would use playground chalk and make a few lines across the treads of the tire to help with alignment.
 
If you say is correct, then the factory specs could be off. How would the factory know what type of road the auto is being used on. I always let my tire wear tell me what the adjustments are to be.
Problem with that idea: caster does not wear the tires, but has a dramatic effect on how the car goes down the road and weather it pulls or not. If it's not even it will pull hard to the low side
 
I don't know if somehow everything changed but in the past camber remained consistent side to side.... Caster is used to compensate for pull caused by road crown....
 
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