Installation of the calipers

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grassy

grassy

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I was installing my calipers today and something doesn’t look right… see pics below:

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Brake kit
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Even with the piston pushed all the way back…with the pads, it is a tight fit. Could I have the "c" clamps on the wrong side ?

That retaining clip on the top really doesn’t fit right..

In the kit, what are the rubber for and where do the other clips fit ?

Not on this topic but it puzzles me..
[FONT=&quot] I installed my new idler arm (75 duster) and torqued it as per service manual to 70 pounds...unfortunately, it locks the steering...is the torque figure off in the service manual ?
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Are these the large piston calipers?? Those slider type calipers always fall together for me.
 
Ronnie,

Not sure what you mean.

They are '73 and up...one big piston.

It was an easy install...just a but tighter than I would like. And the NAPA brake kit just doesn't want to fit however, it could be me.

ian.
 
You've got it on upside down...

Flip the plate so that the flange faces up. And the little clips get installed as pictured, I believe those are the wear indicators.

The rubber bands are for holding the pads to the caliper while you install them.
 

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72Blunble,

Cool :) I would never have guessed. It would help if this stuff from NAPA came with instructions.

Is it OK the have a snug fit between the pads and rotor ? I haven't added the brake lines to the calipers yet so there may be a bit of fluid stopping the piston from going in any further ?

If I back the idler arm torque to 40 or 50 pounds, will it be OK ?

Thanks
Ian.

Hopefully, the engine will be going in next week...
 
actually the rubber bands go on the caliper mount. guess to reduce noise or something. other then that 72bluNblu is right..
 
here ya go. crappy cell phone pics from the 74 and 75 service manual..


looks like they are calling the rubberband an o-ring..

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abodyjoe said:
actually the rubber bands go on the caliper mount. guess to reduce noise or something. other then that 72bluNblu is right..
Click to expand...

Huh. Learn something new everyday. :D

grassy said:
Is it OK the have a snug fit between the pads and rotor ? I haven't added the brake lines to the calipers yet so there may be a bit of fluid stopping the piston from going in any further ?
Click to expand...

As long as the rotor spins it should be fine. But without lines the fluid in the calipers should just squirt out when you push the pistons back.

grassy said:
If I back the idler arm torque to 40 or 50 pounds, will it be OK ?
Click to expand...

It should be. If everything else is as it should be you might want to throw a lock washer under the idler nut. But you should probably investigate why the idler arm mount is flexing enough under load to keep the idler from moving. Did you install the spacers correctly?
 
Abodyjoe,

Damn, I missed that. Went back to my manual and went back through the chapter page by page until I found the illustrations. I need to read more before I ask... I am missing dust retainer shield in the kit...is the necessary ?

72Blu...the idler arm isn't flexing when torqued to 70 pounds..it is rock solid...if I reduce the torque and it will move back and forth..

The "rubber" suspension for the caliper is interesting in it's simplicity.

Thanks, I shall now go kick myself.

Ian.
 
don't feel bad guys.. i never knew what the rubber bands were either. someone here pointed it out years ago to me.. i used to just throw them out..lol
 
grassy said:
Ronnie,

Not sure what you mean.

They are '73 and up...one big piston.

It was an easy install...just a but tighter than I would like. And the NAPA brake kit just doesn't want to fit however, it could be me.

ian.
Click to expand...
Glad you have it sorted out, I missed the rubber band thing too. Usually threw them away. I believe in 76 they had a larger single piston caliper. It's susposed to be a upgrade for the 73 to 75 caliper and I'm told it's a direct bolt on. I think you'll enjoy the feel of the disks once they "bed themselves"..I takes a short time to mate the new pads to the rotors.
 
I always bend the retainers a bit to put more tension on the caliper it self and use much larger rubber elastics , if you do not use the rubbers the calipers will rattle like crap.
 
kt340sport said:
I always bend the retainers a bit to put more tension on the caliper it self and use much larger rubber elastics , if you do not use the rubbers the calipers will rattle like crap.
Click to expand...

Funny, mine don't.

grassy said:
I
72Blu...the idler arm isn't flexing when torqued to 70 pounds..it is rock solid...if I reduce the torque and it will move back and forth..
Click to expand...

Yes, exactly. If the idler arm isn't moving at all when the bolt is torqued to 70 lbs, it means that the idler arm MOUNT is flexing (being drawn in by the bolt). The bolt is collapsing the mounting ears and pinning the idler arm between them.

Lowering the torque will free the idler arm, but that doesn't address why the idler is being pinned by the mount at the correct torque. My '72 manual lists the torque at 65 ft-lbs, but I'm guessing that's still going to be enough to pin the idler arm if 70 ft lbs does it.
 
kt340sport said:
I always bend the retainers a bit to put more tension on the caliper it self and use much larger rubber elastics , if you do not use the rubbers the calipers will rattle like crap.
Click to expand...

i've never had an issue with rattles and i never used those rubber bands.
 
Always wondered why they gave you those rubber bands. I tried using them once to keep the pads in place for assembly and they did not work very well for that. One of those little things that always bugged me - like why did they bother putting them in the bag? Never occurred to me that they were actually part of the assembly. Maybe I'll try putting them on next time... Maybe Thanks for the info.
 
The tolerances were a bit wide in the caliper, the support ways, and in the linings backing plate stampings. The rubber band will fill a void, prevent a metal to metal tick as the parts moved up or down when changing directions.
If your calipers pistons are completely retracted and the pads drag on the rotor, you can assume the rotor thickness is to the top of thickness tolerance and the linings are also at the top of their thickness tolerance.
I never did trust rotors to be true straight out of the box. Of course that was back when a new rotor didn't come with new races already installed. After knocking in the races I would put them in a brake lathe for a light check cut. I suppose that's why I've never had the tight fit problem.
 
72bluNblu said:
Lowering the torque will free the idler arm, but that doesn't address why the idler is being pinned by the mount at the correct torque. My '72 manual lists the torque at 65 ft-lbs, but I'm guessing that's still going to be enough to pin the idler arm if 70 ft lbs does it.
Click to expand...

That sounds ominous. Would that mean my K frame "ears" are getting weak ? The K frame is not mounted in the car as of yet. Soon. I think that will be the test.

It will be something on my list to watch out for.

Thank-you all for your help.

Ian.
 
The idler arm bolt and nut are suppose to lock down on the sleeve of the idler arm. Not sure why yours is locking down. With the bolt tight the arm may be stiff to move because it is new but it should move.
 
It is a moog. On the floor I don't have much traction..on the car I will see if I can move it.

ian.
 
Perhaps another ding-dong moment.

I haven't pumped grease into it yet and it has two nipples...

ian.
 
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