installing harmonic damper

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KENTON

KENTON

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In the car, I was wondering if it's safe to use a piston stop to keep the crank from turning? Or would it damage the piston or worse break it? I am going to use an installer tool. I don't have a helper to hold the flex plate, so has any one done this.
 
I usually grease the damper and then hit it with a rubber hammer to get started and it as far as I can on the crank, then use the large vibration damper bolt with an impact wrench to drive it down. It takes a 1 1/4" socket in 1/2" drive.

No need to use a piston stop tool. You may accidentally damage a piston.
 
Why not use a ring gear holding tool?

It's NEVER a good idea to hit a damper with a hammer, rubber or otherwise. And pulling the damper on with a bolt is risky. I'd rent a proper install tool so you use all of the threads to pull it on.

(I design performance dampers for a living)
 
nerd racing said:
Why not use a ring gear holding tool?

It's NEVER a good idea to hit a damper with a hammer, rubber or otherwise. And pulling the damper on with a bolt is risky. I'd rent a proper install tool so you use all of the threads to pull it on.

(I design performance dampers for a living)
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The motor is in the car, so does the ring gear holding tool stil work?
 
FWIW, I rotate the crank to just past the bottom of the intake stoke on #1 cylinder, both valves should be closed. Remove #1 spark plug, and feed in about 18" of 1/4" rope. Slowly crank the motor over by hand, it should stop 20-30 degrees before Top Dead Center. Tighten the damper bolt by hand until damper (with pulley) is in the correct location. Reverse rotate engine, remove rope, and you're good to go.
 
Am I missing something? with a steering wheel puller set rotation is not an issue correct? :violent1:

12.99

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CudaChris67 said:
Am I missing something? with a steering wheel puller set rotation is not an issue correct? :violent1:

12.99

image_22701.jpg
Click to expand...

I think the OP is trying to install it.

I went through this just the other week. What I did was put a prybar in between the flexplate and the converter.

I have heard of the rope trick, but haven't tried it.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I think the OP is trying to install it.

I went through this just the other week. What I did was put a prybar in between the flexplate and the converter.

I have heard of the rope trick, but haven't tried it.
Click to expand...

I've been able to wedge a small mechanics prybar in the ring gear teeth where the starter goes into the bell and that worked once I had it seated. It took a few tries though.

I too have heard of the rope trick, haven't tried it though.
 
The correct way is an installer... Impacting th crank snout isn't a good idea. The thrust bearing is all you have to stop the crank from moving, and it's force in a direction the crank wasn't designed to take. Same with the balancer itself. The crank bolt isn't designed to pull them on. If it's a lose fit it will work, but a lose fitting dampener sin't going to work well either. In many cases the bolt by itself can't get it all the way seated - especially true with a new balancer and/or a new crank. Summit sells the installer/remover pkgs for $50-100 and you'll never need to buy it again.
 
Motor in or out? Ive only put them on while motor is out, and before flexplate attached to crank. I put a couple bolts in the rear of crank and use a pry bar to keep crank from turning at rear of motor. I have always just greased the dampener and used a longer the stock bolt to get the dampener started, then switched over to the bolt that is staying in once its close. Never hit with hammer, and I've never used a proper installing tool and I have never had any issues.
I definitely would skip the piston stop idea, could lead to problems.
 
moper said:
The correct way is an installer... Impacting th crank snout isn't a good idea. The thrust bearing is all you have to stop the crank from moving, and it's force in a direction the crank wasn't designed to take. Same with the balancer itself. The crank bolt isn't designed to pull them on. If it's a lose fit it will work, but a lose fitting dampener sin't going to work well either. In many cases the bolt by itself can't get it all the way seated - especially true with a new balancer and/or a new crank. Summit sells the installer/remover pkgs for $50-100 and you'll never need to buy it again.
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X2^

If there is an autozone near you they rent the proper tool for installation. (just pay the deposit, which gets returned when the tool does)
 
moper said:
The correct way is an installer... Impacting th crank snout isn't a good idea. The thrust bearing is all you have to stop the crank from moving, and it's force in a direction the crank wasn't designed to take.
Click to expand...


Uhmmm...

The thrust bearing IS DESIGNED TO TAKE FORE/AFT LOAD... That's its purpose and thus it's name..


A few medium whacks with a rubber hammer will not hurt the thrust bearing, it sees more severe loading in an engine.
 
nerd racing said:
Why not use a ring gear holding tool?

It's NEVER a good idea to hit a damper with a hammer, rubber or otherwise. And pulling the damper on with a bolt is risky. I'd rent a proper install tool so you use all of the threads to pull it on.

(I design performance dampers for a living)
Click to expand...


It won't hurt anything to pull the damper on with a bolt. Some engine factories even do it that way... :violent1:
 
Just buy a balancer installer. I mean my God. Either you're going to own an old car or not. I see people say "but I may not use it but once" Really? Use it that one time and throw it in your tool box. You'll have another indispensable tool that you may well use again. If you are installing a balancer, chances are you may need to remove one.

It just never made any sense to me why people get into the hobby and then want to try everything they can do to get OUT of buying the proper tools.

OP, I am not saying you are doing this, just that I see it a lot. Like moper said and I agree with him. A balancer installer is the best way. Makes the job very easy.
 
...keeps you from smacking things with a hammer/mallet that you shouldn't hit...and completely alleviates possibility of tearing up threads in the crank snout too...
 
So those of you who have this magic tool, show us a picture.
I've seen lots of pullers, own three or four of them, but never seen an installer tool.
 
I have an installer. The question was about a piston stop. I took the little inspection cover of the transmission, and thought there must be a better way to hold the motor from turning. As I said I don't have a helper. But I think I will try the rope trick. I have a nice soft piece of rope that won't scratch anything. Thanks for all the input, your help is great.
 
If you have an installer - you shouldn't need the stop. Sorry if I misunderstood you but you hold the threaded section of the installer with one wrench, and use another larger one to push the balancer on the crank. I've never seen an installer that didn't need two wrenches to work...
 
P.S. don't ever use the ballencer bolt to install a harmonic ballencer. ( not even with a breaker bar ) Ask me how I know. There's more to the story than you been told.
 
moper said:
If you have an installer - you shouldn't need the stop. Sorry if I misunderstood you but you hold the threaded section of the installer with one wrench, and use another larger one to push the balancer on the crank. I've never seen an installer that didn't need two wrenches to work...
Click to expand...

Thanks, bought my installer today. I hope that's the way it works.
 
This is what I use to install and remove the balancer on my car. I bought these tools. You can rent them too, except for the little rectangular piece. That piece is used for keeping your engine / balancer in place while you tighten it or loosen it the crank bolt. (Handy darn little piece in my book) That piece is something that mounts to your balancer by means of two (2) bolts that hold your crank pulley on. ( i bought it off fleabay)
Now, if you have not installed your balancer yet then do this.

1)Make sure you use a small amount of grease on the inside surface of the balancer . Make sure you have cleaned the inside of the balancer / damper and the crank snout before you install anything (including the grease). Once the balancer is on by hand and you have it on the crank and in the keyway (you can feel it and you will know), place the balancer installation tool in the crank threaded hole and use the bearing and large nut to install the balancer. (Read the directions on the the balancer install kit...it's not hard) You will need a couple large crescent wrenches to do this. DO NOT use the crank bolt to install the balancer and DO NOT hammer the balancer on. Some people may do this , but I personally would not suggest it.
Once the balancer / damper is on properly ...do this to tighten the crank bolt.
Put two (2) of the crank "Pulley" bolts through the two small holes in the plate and thread them into the balancer. Snug them up. Put a 1/2 inch breaker bar into the square broached hole. Make sure you have the breaker bar secured against the K-Frame or the ground. (Which ever way you need to use it) Your balancer / damper should already be installed at this time. Hand tighten the crank bolt until it stops. Then, set your torque wrench at 135 ft. lbs. (That's the setting I use from the Chrysler manual). Tighten the crank bolt. I hope this helps somewhat .
Hey... I ain't the resident pro on this forum by any means. But, this is just the way I do this.
tools.jpg
 
the right tool..for the right job...
 

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