Intake install help- pic

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73dartneedswork

73dartneedswork

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I’m putting an Edelbrock Performer intake on my 318. I read that I shouldn’t use a metal type gasket with an aluminum intake. All the performance gaskets that I’ve seen don’t have the center port cut out of them. Why is that? Do I need to cut the port out? See in the picture below that the stock metal gasket has the port cut out, but the performance gasket does not.

Thanks,
Kris
 

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Thats a heat crossover port, usally is blocked off for performance aplications.
 
you wont need the hole in the gasket what part number are those on the fel pro black gaskets i like those alot
 
Unless this is strip only, or you live in a REAL warm climate, I'd cut it out. That warms up the bottom of the intake to help fuel vaporization, and I can tell you that tunnel rams are cold blooded enough, already
 
He lives in california!!!! I would not cut it out myself. What type of choke are you using? if at all?
 
you wont need the hole in the gasket what part number are those on the fel pro black gaskets i like those alot
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they are part number 1243


He lives in california!!!! I would not cut it out myself. What type of choke are you using? if at all?
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I'm using an electric choke
 
obtw I have used metal with my aluminum intake with no issues.
 
replicaracer43 said:
He lives in california!!!! I would not cut it out myself. What type of choke are you using? if at all?
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Just a quick 'gogerfy lesson fer ya, CA covers a LOT of ground. It ain't all 80*F like San Diego/ LA. San Francisco can get downright miserable, and by the way, miserable cold and humid is JUST what the doctor ordered for "carb icing" conditions
 
Slappy said:
obtw I have used metal with my aluminum intake with no issues.
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I hope you don't have the same problem I had of course I'm have the worst of luck. I foolishly used the metal ones. The engine started smoking and retorqueing the intake did no good.

I replaced these leaky metal gaskets with the FelPro 1243 gaskets and THEN I had no trouble. Those are some outstanding intake gaskets.

Also note how the intake gaskets don't match up with the head ports. Thats why its good to gasket match heads. lol
 

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no matter what intake gasket you use...you need to check the bolts on an aluminum intake manifold every once in awhile...they will need a little snugging.
 
mullinax95 said:
I hope you don't have the same problem I had of course I'm have the worst of luck. I foolishly used the metal ones. The engine started smoking and retorqueing the intake did no good.

I replaced these leaky metal gaskets with the FelPro 1243 gaskets and THEN I had no trouble. Those are some outstanding intake gaskets.

Also note how the intake gaskets don't match up with the head ports. Thats why its good to gasket match heads. lol
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I had a similar experience with metal gaskets, Performer, and 302 heads on my 318 Demon. I ended up changing the oil twice before I found a fat, soft intake set that would seal the water passages. I think they were FelPros, too.
 
You may as well cut it out if you're gonna use a standard composite intake manifold gasket. The exhaust gasses will burn slap through it in short order if it's not cut out. As stated previously, those holes in the intake and heads fit together to make up the exhaust crossover. It's purpose is to aid in a quick warmup. Closing it off will do absolutely nothing for driveability except make your warmup time a bit longer. The performance upside strongly outweighs any negative effects to your warmup period. Even in the coldest of climates, it will not have that great of an effect. A little longer warmup is all that you will notice. If you want it blocked off, either use the metal gaskets or go with the little block off plates you can get. I don't know where you heard not to use metal gaskets with an aluminum intake. The big blocks all have a metal valley pan that doubles as a gasket and people have been using those for YEARS with no issues. Somebody told you wrong.
 
I installed the manifold last Friday. I did not cut out the holes for the crossover ports.

I don't know where you heard not to use metal gaskets with an aluminum intake.
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I read this on Edelbrocks installation manual.

Thanks for all the replies,
Kris
 
Dont blame the metal gasket for port mismatch, blame Edelbrock and their 30 year old casting molds. Core shift is a maufacturing variable with sand cast molds, take a look at modern casting methods like a crosswind intake (not a sales pitch, but a good example) those ports are very close and repeatable due to their permanent mold process. Gasket matching is SOP on a build as they are all a little off, and it gives you a great pattern to work off of. Hooker header flanges are dreadful, take a look at the end runners, the exhaust port looks like a triangle on some I have seen!
Also any OEM head/block resurfacing affects those steel shim gaskets as they cant fill any void created by head milling. Fiber gaskets are always a better bet on the intakes when you can use them, and the end seals should be suspect to any leaks too as they can vary widely in the space they need to fill. Gasket maker is a sure fire seal on the end seals.
 
good thoughts going on in this thread.

no, you don't use metal gaskets with aluminum intakes, any success in doing so would be contributed in absolute perfect alignment/tight fit/ =a miracle unless everything has been machined perfect compensating for the loose factory tolerances but wait....the factory used metal on big blocks....now it's down to the intake and corrective machining.

I rebuilt a 340 .020 over,x heads, just milled .004 thou off all decks and used an un milled LD340 w/metal gaskets that lined up good with the bolt holes...it blew smoke out of the pass side exhaust pipe....

I copper coat all the big block intake gaskets and let them tack, or they get hi tack painted on.

2. The cross over is for faster warm up/egr/heated choke, and as long as the carb is attached to a warmed up running engine, mech fuel pump absorbing heat would help, the carb shouldn't ice...it would have to be pretty fk'n cOld, colder then cali.

3rd, if you don't use metal [like a cut piece of oil filter] to block the cross over...it will burn right thru in no time, and u'll notice the loss in torque too.
 
Guys, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a question while we're on the topic of intakes. Is it possible to use an LA intake (i.e. LD340) on a Magnum engine? I should know this, but I'm drawing a blank for some reason...
 
73dartneedswork said:
I installed the manifold last Friday. I did not cut out the holes for the crossover ports.


I read this on Edelbrocks installation manual.

Thanks for all the replies,
Kris
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Then by all means, follow the Gods. You DID ask for help and opinions, remember? People have been "breaking the law" for 50 plus years. All you need to do is double check all the holes line up properly and use a sealer on the gaskets if you want. Hell, I've even used a thin film of black permatex on both sides before. It works quite well. Careful parts choices and assembly will win out everytime. ....oh and those gaskets WILL burn out eventually.
 
autopar3000 said:
Guys, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a question while we're on the topic of intakes. Is it possible to use an LA intake (i.e. LD340) on a Magnum engine? I should know this, but I'm drawing a blank for some reason...
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no you cant. magnum engines have different bolt patterns...the bolts go straight down, not at an angle...
 
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