intake manifold end seals
- Thread starter 68gtx
- Start date
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Yes, it is done all the time. Just use a bigger bead.
GEO
Sarcasm Inc.
I quit using silocone sealer years ago and use "The Right Stuff" sealer instead
The Shocker
Well-Known Member
I never use the end gaskets on anything (they always leak on me).I always use high oil resistant silcone instead.Just get the surfaces real clean with rubbing alcohol .I just did this on my LA 408 stroker a few weeks ago and its bone dry with no leaks front or back of intake...
Sure I remove the dowl pins and use a bead of silicone like most everyone else today.
Either will work for a time and either will fail with cause.
The cause that would push either out from under the intake was a clogged PCV system or simply more blow by the a resticted PCV system could carry. The weakest link in the crankcase sealing is where the cork can rotate and/or break at those little round dowl pins. Just the indication of another problem that needs to addressed.
I know a guy who put valve cover gaskets on a chevy engine 3 times before he figured out the clogged PCV system was why the gasket would roll off and out at the rear of the right cover almost imediately.
Either will work for a time and either will fail with cause.
The cause that would push either out from under the intake was a clogged PCV system or simply more blow by the a resticted PCV system could carry. The weakest link in the crankcase sealing is where the cork can rotate and/or break at those little round dowl pins. Just the indication of another problem that needs to addressed.
I know a guy who put valve cover gaskets on a chevy engine 3 times before he figured out the clogged PCV system was why the gasket would roll off and out at the rear of the right cover almost imediately.
416stroker
Well-Known Member
I've had the best luck with the Right Stuff over using silicone. I think the Right Stuff has more of a rubbery texture and seems to be less prone to moving around than silicone. I've used most all of the different types of silicone out there and some worked better than others, but for now I'm the most happy with the Right Stuff.
Snake
Mopar Nut
I will say some of us get lucky using the cork seals,I sure have in all my builds.I always lay a small amount of sealant than the gasket than some more sealant and lots in the corners let set up for 15 minutes slowly tighten down here and there for the next 2 hours so nothing slips,now from what I think one should do is to not start up for 24 hours,let all dry real good.
That's kinda the same method I use, no leaks so far. Knock on wood (head), lol.
Snake
Mopar Nut
I also do the same on the oil pan.See in the pic how there was a little squeezed out I than run my finger down the side of the pan and block,just like caulking along you tub to get a great seal.Each to his own.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I do this almost the exact same way, however,,,
When I was in the trans business they always put the RTV on the pans that only used sealants and filled the trans as soon as the car was back on the ground and I don't remember it ever being a problem.
So on that note, I don't wait to fill and run right away after using RTV.
I did the same with the intake ends, (got it all together and fired it up)
I have almost no blowby though, so maybe I just got lucky.
Tightening slowly on gaskets with sealer on both side is very good advise.
Always leave the dowl pins in for port alignment and make sure you check the alignment if you change intakes or heads.
Not checking this can result in a leak between intake runners. Which is hard to detect but the reason some run good and some don't.
A lot of these Mopar guys!! think they are there to hold the gaskets. They are only fooling their self. But some do get lucky.
Set the intake on with just the bolts loose and see how far it moves front to back. Look at the width of the web between the runners. Then you can decide.
An easy way on a low performance dual plane intake motor is to scribe a line on the top of each web onto the top of the intake. Align these with the center of the of the valve cover bolt holes. They are usually in the center of the port.
Some of the after market intakes are so far off I had to send them back. One line was center and the rest were 1/8 inch off. Nothing is 100% If you don't check your intake your stuck with it.
New intakes come undrilled this is because every motor is different. After locating your intake tap down on it leaving a mark from the dowls. Drill them to size in a mill so they don't walk. Taper the leading edge. This intake is now specific to your motor. This can be redone or moved for a different app.
I already bought roundy round motors where the intakes were staked in place. This was to prevent movement on Impacts. One of these motors came from Ray Everingham. stash . Bought buy Millers racing in Allentown. He purchaced alot of his motors in the switch. All small blocks and big block Mopars are like this do to the mirrored ports. BB chevy and ford have even spaced runners. Most All new motor designs did away with this intake runner issue.
Not checking this can result in a leak between intake runners. Which is hard to detect but the reason some run good and some don't.
A lot of these Mopar guys!! think they are there to hold the gaskets. They are only fooling their self. But some do get lucky.
Set the intake on with just the bolts loose and see how far it moves front to back. Look at the width of the web between the runners. Then you can decide.
An easy way on a low performance dual plane intake motor is to scribe a line on the top of each web onto the top of the intake. Align these with the center of the of the valve cover bolt holes. They are usually in the center of the port.
Some of the after market intakes are so far off I had to send them back. One line was center and the rest were 1/8 inch off. Nothing is 100% If you don't check your intake your stuck with it.
New intakes come undrilled this is because every motor is different. After locating your intake tap down on it leaving a mark from the dowls. Drill them to size in a mill so they don't walk. Taper the leading edge. This intake is now specific to your motor. This can be redone or moved for a different app.
I already bought roundy round motors where the intakes were staked in place. This was to prevent movement on Impacts. One of these motors came from Ray Everingham. stash . Bought buy Millers racing in Allentown. He purchaced alot of his motors in the switch. All small blocks and big block Mopars are like this do to the mirrored ports. BB chevy and ford have even spaced runners. Most All new motor designs did away with this intake runner issue.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I am sure the pens would help with alignment but I took them out and have had no leakage. Make sure you don't get silicone in your water passages. I would also suggest doing an oil and filter change after the swap just in case anything fell down into the motor when you were cleaning the heads and end rail surfaces. Then to check for leaks I had the motor running and sprayed brake parts cleaner around all the seals. If the RPM's go up then there is a leak.
The Shocker
Well-Known Member
IMO silicone gets a bad rap because the surfaces were not completley free of oil before applying it.If there is even a trace of oil ,the silicone will not stick and it will slide and eventually leak.At that point you could add a gallon of silicone and it will never seal.The key is to have it clean to begin with.Lay a thick bead of it down ,allow a few minutes for it to start getting tacky ,then install and tighten down the intake quickly before it dries.Let it sit for a few hours to "kick" before exposing it to oil and your home free ...
jimmyray
Well-Known Member
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Quit using the cork end pieces when I went to Edel heads, they were too thick. Not had any problem, just don't skimp on the application, make sure you get plenty of bead.
Once it's back together, and you find a leak where you did not put enough silicone, it is near impossible to stick more in there and get it to seal, since the oil has contaminated the surface. No need asking how I know.
Once it's back together, and you find a leak where you did not put enough silicone, it is near impossible to stick more in there and get it to seal, since the oil has contaminated the surface. No need asking how I know.
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