Is it possible for 318 to run with dist. 180 deg. off ???

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22dog22

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Have a on going engine idling/ running problem, have a 69 Cuda 318 . auto , have a Holley carb on engine, I have about 200 miles on engine. thought had a carb problem. I have another post on here about that, from what I got out of the group on here, possible timing issue, so any way, I had some time to start checking., Car will idle in park put in gear dies, checked for vacuum leaks found none, I have to keep the idle at about 900rpm so it will not die in gear, but still rough ,reset carb air fuel with vacuum gauge for best vacuum about 15 in., [ have a mild cam ], hooked up my timing light which is a Innova 3568a which you can read more then stock timing. had hooked to number 1 spark plug wire, have timing marks paint with white to see them easy, and the bal, timing mark is painted white, set idle, tried to take a reading with the timing light could not find timing marks anywhere, while using the timing light, some how adjustment buttons on the timing light I had it set at 90 deg. and did not know it, I put the timing light on the timing marks and I could seem them, so now I am thinking do I have the dist, 180 deg, off ?? to add to this I shut off the engine and would you know it the timing mark was right 0 deg. with the mark on the damper, at 0, so I pulled off the dist. cap, I marked the cap where number 1 is with the cap off the rotor was not on number 1 but 180 off !!, now I ran out of time, now I do not know if it was on comp, or exhaust when I shut off the engine and it so happen to stop exactly on top dead center! I will need to get number 1 to tdc on comp. and recheck the rotor to see if it correct,
Now my question is would the engine run like this if 180 deg off ???
 
No.
The timing mark will be tdc on either #1 or #6 firing, which are 180* opposite on the distributor cap.
You can time a V-8 engine off #1, & #6 cylinders.
A 6 cyl engine off #1 and #6 also,
And 4 cyls off #1 and #4 cyl iirc
His is handy when trying to time an engine when there is an air cleaner stove duct in the way.
There may be a foreign exception.
 
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That is what I thought but as I said, I could not find the timing marks with the timing light on number 1, but with the timing light adjusted to 90 deg. out , they showed up near the timing marks.
 
That is what I thought but as I said, I could not find the timing marks with the timing light on number 1, but with the timing light adjusted to 90 deg. out , they showed up near the timing marks.
Got the right timing chain cover for your set up?
 
It is possible to have a mis-matched timing cover/mark, with a diff yr damper, that would put the mark 90*ish off .
Try off #6 then.
Perhaps time it off a diff wire. One next to #1, either way.
 
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The engine runs rough no matter, timing mark off 90* .
Something's whacked besides me.
Check your firing order, #2 is right beside #1, which is 90* on the crank .
Try timing it off #6, if the mark is in the right place, #1 and #2 wires may be crossed.
Did you own a Ford prior to this ? .lol
 
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So if it's a earlier right side la damper on a later left side timing tab, you can time off number. 6? Asking for a friend... :lol:
 
You could also set your timing to max vacuum. Then check timing marks. When setting timing using the max vacuum method, you will typically need to retard it a few degrees to avoid detonation under load. I usually set my timing using this method and go for a ride. If detonation occurs I will retard it a couple degrees. If no detonation occurs I will add a couple degrees until I find the sweet spot. 65'
 
So if it's a earlier right side la damper on a later left side timing tab, you can time off number
No.

Others might disagree but my timing cover is a 70 up, my damper is 69 down,

With the engine timing set to the passenger side timing tab, there is no cylinder that aligns the driver's side timing tab to the damper.
 
That is what I thought but as I said, I could not find the timing marks with the timing light on number 1, but with the timing light adjusted to 90 deg. out , they showed up near the timing marks.
The correct answer is "piston stop."

I made and still have had this one since the mid 70's

stop2-jpg-jpg.jpg


Disconnect battery for safety. Insert the device in no1 making sure the piston is down. The length of the plunger is unimportant, but you want the piston to stop "down a ways." If you buy one rather than building one, make sure you get a lock nut on there to stop the stem from wobbling around

CAREFULLY wrench the engine around until the piston stops on the device. make a temp mark under TDC on your pointer tab, onto the balancer

Rotate the engine opposite direction do same thing. This will result in two temporary marks, and halfway between is TDC

If the original mark is correct, that is where it will be.
 
The V-8 engines common to us all turn the distributor 1/2 speed of crank, so whatever plug wire is opposite #1, fires at TDC .
In all the engines I can remember it was #6 . There certainly may be exception.
Same with 6 cyls and 4 cyls .
Our scopes were between bays, so was convenient to swing the boom and use the plug wire either side .
Cheers

IMG_20230914_182021.jpg
 
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No. 1 and 6 time the same
6 is 180° off. Many guys get mixed up when installing a cam and timing set. THe cam gear mark and the crank gear mark should both be at 12:00 position for #1 to be at TDC. If you line the marks up together, #6 will be up. (timing marks at 6 and 12) One thing nice about Mopar distributors, the drive tang goes in at tdc or 180 off. If you mess up, pull the distributor, twist the rotor a half turn and set it back in the hole. Back to TDC.
 
No, No, and No.....

Can't get no revolutions when the spark plug is firing in the bottom of the hole.

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☆☆☆☆☆
 
6 is 180° off. Many guys get mixed up when installing a cam and timing set. THe cam gear mark and the crank gear mark should both be at 12:00 position for #1 to be at TDC. If you line the marks up together, #6 will be up. (timing marks at 6 and 12) One thing nice about Mopar distributors, the drive tang goes in at tdc or 180 off. If you mess up, pull the distributor, twist the rotor a half turn and set it back in the hole. Back to TDC.

180* out and it's firing cyls in overlap, results in big. KABOOM .
 
Start from the beginning and do your diagnostics. It sounds to me like the outer ring of the balancer has slipped. If it has, buy a new balancer.
 
As others have said, NO. Engine will not run with timing 180 out. But it can run [ rough ] if plug leads 5 & 7 are mixed up in the firing order.
 
Just read on the Hughs site how to set up cam timming and it says as per all manuals crank dot to 12 oclock and cam gear to 6 oclock ! But to insert the distributor in you must turn the engin over one more revolution as this will have the distributer at number six so one more turn of the motor to get dissy at number one. Hughs blames Al Gore for this as he says it has always been like this so must be Al Gores Fault!
 
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