Is this a fair radiator?
- Thread starter Tad
- Start date
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I used this one . It's a 3 core, in my cuda with a mild 360 and have no complaints on it. It fit good , hat to drill 2 mounting holes.
What year Cuda? Going in a 65 dart here.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I have one in 68 dart with 500 stroker. No complaints.
There are so many reasons that the rad is not "too small"
- Fan type
- Number of blades
- Pitch of blades
- Diameter of crank pulley
- Diameter of water pump pulley
- Number of impeller blades in waterpump
- Thermostat temp (if it is a 195, 200 would be a normal temp)
- Where and how you are measuring the temp
- clogged radiator passages
- Clogged water passages in engine
- Number of rows in rad
- Fins per inch between tubes
- Aftermarket fan shroud
- Lack of bypass hose.
- Engine mods
- Timing
- Carb lean
Start with what the factory put in a 340 car. Then "improve" from there.
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yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Do NOT waste your cash on a 3 core radiator. Look into Cold Case radiators here on FABO.
You want the largest 2 core radiator you can find, a high flow water pump, a QUALITY Stewart Components thermostat and, and this is a big AND, if you want maximum cooling you need to measure your pulleys and turn the water pump 20% faster than the crank.
You do that and you will cool the engine in the hottest climes without an issue.
Stay away from 3 and 4 core radiators. A big 2 core is much, much better.
Cold Case radiator. Look them up here on FABO.
You want the largest 2 core radiator you can find, a high flow water pump, a QUALITY Stewart Components thermostat and, and this is a big AND, if you want maximum cooling you need to measure your pulleys and turn the water pump 20% faster than the crank.
You do that and you will cool the engine in the hottest climes without an issue.
Stay away from 3 and 4 core radiators. A big 2 core is much, much better.
Cold Case radiator. Look them up here on FABO.
Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
I used CC1635 in my 65 Barracuda w/904. You do have to drill the mtg. holes but it fits. I would also recommend a hi flow water pump for optimum cooling of high performance builds. 65'
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Cold case is reasonably priced. Yellow Rose makes a good point about 2 row. I didn't know then what I know now when I bought my 3 row Champion.
Is it getting to temp while idling or driving in 15 min?
What had been done to the engine, rebuild?
Initial timing?
Is it running lean?
What had been done to the engine, rebuild?
Initial timing?
Is it running lean?
First thing you want to do is follow some of the good advice provided by the members. It may be something simple that brings your temps down without having to replace your radiator.
I'll be very honest in saying that a lot of aluminum radiators are sold prior to digging into the 'real' problem. But it's still a valid solution. Some owners don't want to take the time to trouble shoot. Some owners realize it costs more money trouble shooting than it does to just buy a new radiator. aluminum + fluid volume can cure a lot of evils going on in your car.
That being said, if you decide to take that plunge, for just a little more than $274, you can get an aluminum radiator with OEM style stamped tanks and a much bigger volume core.
As a sponsor, Cold Case is running a 'online Car show special' because of the cancellation of all the car shows this Spring. That means we're offering show pricing and free shipping right now. Additionally, we started a $50 rebate program that can reduce your purchase price yet another $50.
It's something we've never done before but if we can help our customers while at the same time keeping the lights on, it's a win win for both of us.
If it sits and idles it gets hot or idling in traffic/barely moving. Once I start moving again at higher speed the needle drops.
The 2 core vs 3 core thing is mostly just a gimmick, especially the way that they’re marketed. You won’t find any useful engineering specifications on any of the vendor websites, just cutesy drawings and ridiculously oversimplified, pseudo scientific explanations. There’s a lot more that goes into building a good radiator than just the number of cores. There are plenty of 3 core radiators that work great and will outperform 2 core radiators. And there are two core radiators that will out perform 3 core radiators. Heck, the factory used 3 core radiators, and I can absolutely guarantee they did far more testing and analysis than the vast majority of aftermarket radiator manufacturers. Just saying a 2 core (or a 3 core) is better is meaningless by itself.
I run a 26” Champion 3 core on my Duster. It has a .060” 340, 9.8:1 compression, ported iron heads and a decent cam. It’s a lot more to cool than a factory 340. I run a set of Ford Contour electric fans, and frequently drive my car in 100+ degree temperatures, even in traffic. I’ve never had an issue with overheating, and I spent less on my radiator and fan set up than a Cold Case radiator by itself.
I’m not saying Cold Case radiators aren’t good or that they don’t work. It seems like the members here that have used them are happy, which is great. But I’ve yet to see them post anything that can actually be used to prove they’re any better, and I’ve asked. There are certainly less expensive options that do work for people.
And I’m not some Champion radiators die hard either. They have had their issues, and I would definitely suggest buying one from a known vendor in case you do have a quality control issue. I drilled the mounting holes in mine. But I’m ok with that too, for $200+ in savings I can drill a couple holes.
That’s probably NOT a radiator issue. That is more likely a fan issue, as it’s indicated the issue is not moving enough air at slow speeds. If it cools off when you’re moving and doesn’t creep up on the highway under load the radiator is likely ok.
I run a 26” Champion 3 core on my Duster. It has a .060” 340, 9.8:1 compression, ported iron heads and a decent cam. It’s a lot more to cool than a factory 340. I run a set of Ford Contour electric fans, and frequently drive my car in 100+ degree temperatures, even in traffic. I’ve never had an issue with overheating, and I spent less on my radiator and fan set up than a Cold Case radiator by itself.
I’m not saying Cold Case radiators aren’t good or that they don’t work. It seems like the members here that have used them are happy, which is great. But I’ve yet to see them post anything that can actually be used to prove they’re any better, and I’ve asked. There are certainly less expensive options that do work for people.
And I’m not some Champion radiators die hard either. They have had their issues, and I would definitely suggest buying one from a known vendor in case you do have a quality control issue. I drilled the mounting holes in mine. But I’m ok with that too, for $200+ in savings I can drill a couple holes.
That’s probably NOT a radiator issue. That is more likely a fan issue, as it’s indicated the issue is not moving enough air at slow speeds. If it cools off when you’re moving and doesn’t creep up on the highway under load the radiator is likely ok.
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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Your picture shows no shroud, BIG no-no, and your looped together heat hose is returning hot water right back into the block. You basically need more airflow through the radiator, and fix some of the "hacking" there
Yup!
I should’ve looked more closely at the picture. The lack of a fan shroud by itself could be causing the issue.
Really, 200+ degrees is not unusual in traffic. And that assumes your temp gauge is dead on. If it stays under 220 I wouldn’t consider it a big issue. And the missing shroud really hurts fan efficiency.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If you can get the fan close enough to the radiator you don’t need the shroud, and the shroud VN be an issue at higher road speeds.
The OP needs to get the water pump (and the fan) turning faster than the crank and then go from there.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I agree the 2 core 3 core thing is probably a fart into a fan deal, but the OP didn’t have a radiator yet, so I think the 2 core is a bit better. If he had 3 core I’d have said leave it alone and look for other things.
So I agree with everything you posted.
I vote read post #5 again Then again. A few other comments followed that also matter.
Back in the day these cars cooled just fine OEM and yes there are some other things that can help today, too. No reason a good 2 core is not totally adequate IF everything else is correct! Post #5!!
Back in the day these cars cooled just fine OEM and yes there are some other things that can help today, too. No reason a good 2 core is not totally adequate IF everything else is correct! Post #5!!
Thank you. I’ll work on the shroud. I had the heater hoses block off and was told it would be better if they were connected. Is there another solution?
If my current 2 pulleys are 6 3/4 what smaller size should I get for the water pump?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
You have a 6.75 inch water pump pulley. To get to 20% overdriven, you’ll need a crank pulley that is 8.10 in diameter.
At 10% over you’ll need to be just over or at 7.45 inches.
I don’t run a shroud. Your fan is plenty close enough to the radiator you won’t need one if the pump is turning the correct speed.
Fixed my damn math. Sorry for the confusion.
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