What year Cuda? Going in a 65 dart here.I used this one . It's a 3 core, in my cuda with a mild 360 and have no complaints on it. It fit good , hat to drill 2 mounting holes.
View attachment 1715494796
There are so many reasons that the rad is not "too small"Running a 340 that gets up around 200+ within 15 minutes or so. the radiator is too small I believe
What year Cuda? Going in a 65 dart here.
There are so many reasons that the rad is not "too small"
Is there a product to put in that would clean/dissolve clogs?
What did I miss?
- Fan type: steel
- Number of blades: 7
- Pitch of blades: unsure
- Diameter of crank pulley: equal to water pump
- Diameter of water pump pulley
- Number of impeller blades in waterpump: 8 blade 2951571 reman
- Thermostat temp (if it is a 195, 200 would be a normal temp): need to check
- Where and how you are measuring the temp: at thermostat housing and top of radiator
- clogged radiator passages
- Clogged water passages in engine
- Number of rows in rad
- Fins per inch between tubes
- Aftermarket fan shroud: NONE
- Lack of bypass hose.
Start with what the factory put in a 340 car. Then "improve" from there.
First thing you want to do is follow some of the good advice provided by the members. It may be something simple that brings your temps down without having to replace your radiator.View attachment 1715494792 I’ll admit from the start I’m going cheaper and trying to avoid buying a $900 radiator. This is for a second car that is a daily driver. Running a 340 that gets up around 200+ within 15 minutes or so. the radiator is too small I believe. Looking for something to put in to cool the engine better. Has anyone had any experience with this company?
If it sits and idles it gets hot or idling in traffic/barely moving. Once I start moving again at higher speed the needle drops.Is it getting to temp while idling or driving in 15 min?
What had been done to the engine, rebuild?
Initial timing?
Is it running lean?
If it sits and idles it gets hot or idling in traffic/barely moving. Once I start moving again at higher speed the needle drops.
Your picture shows no shroud, BIG no-no, and your looped together heat hose is returning hot water right back into the block. You basically need more airflow through the radiator, and fix some of the "hacking" there
6 3/4 inch pulleys top and bottom
Your picture shows no shroud, BIG no-no, and your looped together heat hose is returning hot water right back into the block. You basically need more airflow through the radiator, and fix some of the "hacking" there
The 2 core vs 3 core thing is mostly just a gimmick, especially the way that they’re marketed. You won’t find any useful engineering specifications on any of the vendor websites, just cutesy drawings and ridiculously oversimplified, pseudo scientific explanations. There’s a lot more that goes into building a good radiator than just the number of cores. There are plenty of 3 core radiators that work great and will outperform 2 core radiators. And there are two core radiators that will out perform 3 core radiators. Heck, the factory used 3 core radiators, and I can absolutely guarantee they did far more testing and analysis than the vast majority of aftermarket radiator manufacturers. Just saying a 2 core (or a 3 core) is better is meaningless by itself.
I run a 26” Champion 3 core on my Duster. It has a .060” 340, 9.8:1 compression, ported iron heads and a decent cam. It’s a lot more to cool than a factory 340. I run a set of Ford Contour electric fans, and frequently drive my car in 100+ degree temperatures, even in traffic. I’ve never had an issue with overheating, and I spent less on my radiator and fan set up than a Cold Case radiator by itself.
I’m not saying Cold Case radiators aren’t good or that they don’t work. It seems like the members here that have used them are happy, which is great. But I’ve yet to see them post anything that can actually be used to prove they’re any better, and I’ve asked. There are certainly less expensive options that do work for people.
And I’m not some Champion radiators die hard either. They have had their issues, and I would definitely suggest buying one from a known vendor in case you do have a quality control issue. I drilled the mounting holes in mine. But I’m ok with that too, for $200+ in savings I can drill a couple holes.
That’s probably NOT a radiator issue. That is more likely a fan issue, as it’s indicated the issue is not moving enough air at slow speeds. If it cools off when you’re moving and doesn’t creep up on the highway under load the radiator is likely ok.
Thank you. I’ll work on the shroud. I had the heater hoses block off and was told it would be better if they were connected. Is there another solution?Your picture shows no shroud, BIG no-no, and your looped together heat hose is returning hot water right back into the block. You basically need more airflow through the radiator, and fix some of the "hacking" there
If my current 2 pulleys are 6 3/4 what smaller size should I get for the water pump?That is 1:1 and that is WAY too slow. Fix that first. In a bit I’ll screen shot what Chrysler says about water pump speed so you don’t have to take my word for it.