This proposed cam is rated 2600 up right? The cam grinder is telling you allready that this cam has problems below 2600.Well with 3.55s and 27s, this makes 22mph. Think about that.
Do you really want to rev it up and slip it out, every single time you take off?
What if traffic slows to some sub-22 mph, and that big cam goes blubbery?
Now let's say you are just accelerating to a 35 mph cruising speed. Well, that would be 2970rpm in 2nd, which is a little buzy, so you drop it into 3rd/2166 which puts you back in the no-go zone for that cam.
The point is this;If you have a stick-car,3.55s, and you drive like I do(normally), there had better be some punch from idle to 3000.Street-Tuning a cam that is operating in reversion,With the Dcr jumping up and down; is a PITA.
I usually drive standards at 2,500-4,500 rpm cruising around & I shift a lot and probably drive hard once or twice every other time im in my cars to be honest, race sometimes on weekends. My tire diameter with this engine should be just under 26 inches, & Ive always taken the cam rating as meaning the engine isn't going to really feel like its in the powerband below that...2600 rpm in my case. Im fine with feathering the clutch once or twice leaving stoplights. Also someone mentioned idle & drivability, im fine with a rough idle im assuming an engine like this will idle at 1,000 rpm or so?
Ok, have you looked at one that is one step below yours, it does seem a little more street friendly: (One I was really thinking of getting at first... Still might with my next build)
Part# 20200712
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 282/290
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 231/239
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .535/.550
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2200-6200
According to Lunati's website: Likes up- graded intake, carb and exhaust. Needs 2800 RPM stall converter in most cases. Requires 9.5:1 compression.
The way I see it, I could do three things as far as this series of cams goes, help me out here guys; 1. The original 243/251 @ 0.050 cam I mentoned, or 2. this 231/239 @ 0.050 cam, or 3. said cam with a higher rocker arm ratio. 1.6, or 1.65?
Do you guys think 750 is a good place to be on the carb, regardless? Am I going to want some extra adjustability like hp series type stuff? Again, doing a port-matched intake (is there some kind of smaller single plane for these?) & cnc ported heads hopefully a 2.080 valve at least, 5 angles regardless. What is a good port size for eddie rpms or pro comps for maybe leaving some port velocity on the table, 200-210 cc? and is that attainable with these heads? How far should I go with them, for you guys who have them worked over? I will have the shop put them on the flow bench.
Also. While i'm at it....what kind of spring pressure am I looking at here & what springs would you engine gurus run? Im going with good locks and possibly some titanium retainers, I like the idea of a fairly lightweight valve train, not all the way race-built, still stainless steel valves but maybe sodium-filled exhaust valves too..? I'm using Scat pro series I-beams, they're beefy & still pretty light, come with ARP bolts, guy from Scat told me they're rated for 7,500 rpm and 700-750 hp but I figure with the weight lost there & in the valve train to a certain extent, it'll be fairly snappy even with a large cam?
