Is your 67-76 A-body windshield leaking ?

[townsend]

Just wondering if you used any kind of sealer.
If the answer is affirmative , what was the brand and part number.

 

[Ozyduster]

This remins me need to plug mine before i forget!!! Dob of sikaflex should do the trick

 

[Kendog 170]

There are 2 holes for draining on the left and right side of the lower windshield gasket area. If they are not open it will leak. Sorry no pic of this.
@Oldmanmopar had a video about this that has expired. Maybe he can repost?

 

[SpeedThrills]

Just wondering if you used any kind of sealer.
If the answer is affirmative , what was the brand and part number.

No, I didn’t. I’d read that you shouldn’t.

This remins me need to plug mine before i forget!!! Dob of sikaflex should do the trick

I’m curious if the shop I’m calling uses a sealer, and if so, what kind.

There are 2 holes for draining on the left and right side of the lower windshield gasket area. If they are not open it will leak. Sorry no pic of this.
@Oldmanmopar had a video about this that has expired. Maybe he can repost?

Yeah, I’ve been hoping he reposts a video. What I read on this thread is interesting.
I saw elsewhere, he’s having surgery. Take it easy, OMM!

 

[Kendog 170]

I wish him the best. I go under the knife Friday.

 

[SpeedThrills]

I wish him the best. I go under the knife Friday.

I hope all goes well.

 

[townsend]

These are the products and tools used by many glass shops in the 1960's and 1970's to install windshields and rubber gaskets.
CRL 7708 butyl sealant to seal between gasket and body.
CRL 1716 applied between glass and gasket.
Tools: CRL 181AG gun and Equalizer IS742
Caulk gun
Cleaning solvent 3M 08984
Another method was to use butyl tape
Repeating again this is for the professional glass shop.
For more details on these products see:
automotive windshield sealants
butyl auto glass tapes

CRL Auto Glass Sealants, Butyls, and Tapes

C. R. Laurence is the world leader, wholesale distributor to the Glazing, Industrial, Construction, Architectural, Hardware and Automotive Industries, supplying railing, windscreen, standoffs, and other supplies to major industries and manufacturers.

www.crlaurence.co.uk

 

[Mtrhead]

35 years ago a Guy told me that from the factory, some of the drain holes got clogged with sealant, and didn't even clean them out.And that was the main cause of all of the leaking

 

[str12-340]

Ask them if they have an older technician who has lots of experience with rubber gasket windshields. My go to glass place has a semi-retired guy (69 years old) who grew up with windshields like ours and oniy does that work.. You might look for a few restoration shops that specialize in old classics and ask them who they use.

 

[4spdragtop]

Heres a couple pics taken from pass side of our 67 cuda. You can see the small rectangular hole. I bet ours is now filled/plugged with goop lol

 

[Kendog 170]

Mine too. lol Going to pop it out next spring. Oh, I said that last year!

 

[340sFastback]

Years back I couldn't find a shop that was willing to put my windshield in. So I did it my self. New gasket and no sealer. But I made sure those drain holes were clear. It doesn't leak.

 

[SpeedThrills]

Ask them if they have an older technician who has lots of experience with rubber gasket windshields. My go to glass place has a semi-retired guy (69 years old) who grew up with windshields like ours and oniy does that work.. You might look for a few restoration shops that specialize in old classics and ask them who they use.

Good ideas. I’m gonna call in the next couple of days. I’ll report back.

Heres a couple pics taken from pass side of our 67 cuda. You can see the small rectangular hole. I bet ours is now filled/plugged with goop lol

View attachment 1716475399

View attachment 1716475400

I’m guessing you mean the smaller holes near the long slots that have the 90* flap. I can see the long slots with the glass installed. I’ll see if I can see the smaller ones. I don’t remember if they were there or not.

 

[4spdragtop]

Yes the smaller one, not the one with the tab/ledge.

Good ideas. I’m gonna call in the next couple of days. I’ll report back.

I’m guessing you mean the smaller holes near the long slots that have the 90* flap. I can see the long slots with the glass installed. I’ll see if I can see the smaller ones. I don’t remember if they were there or not.

 

[matthon]

Yes the smaller one, not the one with the tab/ledge

It appears the drain hole is not the lowest point on the window channel.

Draining debris/water was not a Mopar strength.

I plan on r&r the glass on my 67, even though I've done multiple Mopar windows, can't wait, sarcasm, the a-body looks a little different.

 

[SpeedThrills]

I can't see the drain holes.

Anyhow, I just called the shop. The guy was helpful, but I could tell, and I even mentioned, that he doesn't want to do it. He didn't disagree.

He said they all leak. He said he'd do it, but he couldn't guarantee it. He also said he'd come over when I'm ready to put the trim on, and squirt something on it, and then I could put the trim on immediately. That way, the stuff he put on would take the shape of the trim before it set. I told him I didn't want to do that.

There's not much around here. It's a seashore resort area.

I could do it again. Or if I found someone who is very comfortable with doing them, I'd put it on my trailer (no engine) and take it there (on a rain free day, haha).

Gotta ponder this a while.

 

[gdrill]

My drivers side was plugged right off. The pass side not so bad. But I cleaned them before I thought of taking pics. Bad habit of mine! Makes sense. Thank you Steve.

 

[matthon]

My brain isn't braining on why the a-body would leak if those tiny holes were plugged.

Now I can't wait to r&r my windshield.
And I'm not doing because it leaks, doing the rear because it's rusty and leaks and figured do the front at the same time.

 

[gdrill]

My brain isn't braining on why the a-body would leak if those tiny holes were plugged.

Now I can't wait to r&r my windshield.
And I'm not doing because it leaks, doing the rear because it's rusty and leaks and figured do the front at the same time.

Because water would go under the rubber gasket as it was not "glued" to the metal structure all the way along. The holes were a way for the water to exit via the cowl drains. If plugged off, the overflow would be into the interior.

 

[matthon]

I get if not glued the water had a way to drain.

Comments, here and other threads, run the gamut.

No glue doesn't leak, if glue leaks, if glue and holes blocked leaks.

No glue but doesn't leak, what about torrential downpour?
I drive my junk and those tiny holes look inadequate and too few.

Glue and holes blocked or not, wouldn't the glue stop water from coming into the interior, or even making it into the outer channel?

My 67 currently has 68 stainless, so it's been removed before, possibly, guessing yes to get the trim clips installed.
No leaks.

Can't wait to see what's under the trim/windshield.

 

[gdrill]

If the rubber had a weak seal to the body, which they did because they were not glued to the body they just leaned on and touched it, the water would pass between and lay in the valley. If the valley was full of water it could either drain to the cowl, as designed, or overflow into the car because of plugged drains. The "plugging" was result of the sealant used in the attachment of the cowl to the shell, not the windshield rubber to the body. Some cars actually were not plugged! When you expose yours, you will see the material is a foam type stuff vs black window seal that was used by later installers of glass. This is what I have found.

 

[340sFastback]

I get if not glued the water had a way to drain.

Comments, here and other threads, run the gamut.

No glue doesn't leak, if glue leaks, if glue and holes blocked leaks.

No glue but doesn't leak, what about torrential downpour?
I drive my junk and those tiny holes look inadequate and too few.

Glue and holes blocked or not, wouldn't the glue stop water from coming into the interior, or even making it into the outer channel?

My 67 currently has 68 stainless, so it's been removed before, possibly, guessing yes to get the trim clips installed.
No leaks.

Can't wait to see what's under the trim/windshield.

Right. Not long ago some guy on here had a glass shop install windshield with gobs of glue all over the place and glass shop been doing it for 40 years any other way is wrong his way never leaks ect ect ect. So yeah numerous opinions on how something can be done situation normal.

Mine is drain holes clear, no glue, new gasket, installed windshield myself, does not leak. If someone else wants to glob sealant all over the place go ahead its your car do it your way.

But if you glob sealant and block drain holes then any water that gets in channel is gonna sit in channel and over time water sitting down there gee what could happen???

 

[Big.J.007]

Makes sense.. My floors were gone, and cowl had issues. When I pulled the windshield, both drain holes were plugged. Drivers side was worse and had more damage. I'll be sure to leave them both open when reinstalling glass.

 

[SpeedThrills]

Okay, I've decided, based on the info in this thread, to do it again. I almost have to! I want to see what's under that gasket. Drain holes plugged? Or?

I've re-read OMM's earlier posts enough (and everyone else's) that I now understand what he's saying and showing.

If the drain holes are clear before install, I get that the water will go out them to the cowl, and drain out the ends of the cowl, down between the front of the doors and the rear of the fenders. If they're not clear, water will run up and over the install trough (we need the real names of this stuff), and into the car.

If the cowl has rusted through, even if the water drains properly, and heads for the ends of the cowl, it'll enter the interior through the rusty cowl.

And the wiper pivots should be checked for leaking gaskets. My car has no pivots, I'm going to check to see if I used a gasket when I covered the holes.

This is where I'm confused: It seems that any substantial rain or just washing the car, would overwhelm the drain holes and the water would head inside the car. What am I missing?

I get that filling all the holes with sealer would seal the water out, but the water would sit in the install trough and rust through eventually. -Long after the glass shop did the job.

As far as me doing the job over; should I get a new gasket? Is one gasket better than another? I bought the one I have now from Classic Industries, in April of 2020. I probably installed it within a year or so. It's primarily in a heated garage. It has about 600 street miles, plus it's been trailered to the track a few times. I left it on the trailer one night after a trip to the track, and it rained. The water came in and soaked the front floors. I had to take out the front seats and door sill plates, and thoroughly dry the new carpet!

 

[matthon]

If someone else wants to glob sealant all over the place go ahead its your car do it your way.

Nope, and yup, globby sealant makes rust.

This is where I'm confused: It seems that any substantial rain or just washing the car, would overwhelm the drain holes and the water would head inside the car. What am I missing?

Ditto. Just trying to understand.

As I've stated, done my share of windows, and different processes for different years/models.

My 58 has a 2 piece seal. Butyl sealant between the rail and seal, some other clear seal I can't recall between the glass and seal.

There's also drains at the bottom corners of the seal, as it's a two piece, if any moisture gets in between.

Don't cover them with sealant!