issue with AMD Demon floor pan..please help newbie

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I have good luck with .030 wire for spot welds.Try one or two weld if you have issues go to .025 wire

ok will do, thanks:) the floor is getting closer to be put in, i have been drill out all the holes for the spot welds... taking longer then i thought lol there is a lot!
 
Looking forward to seeing the wonderful job completed because we know how hard you have worked on it.

thanks! i hope it turns out well.... its only the start of a big projec : ) i think once i get more done on the car i will start a topic in the restoration fourm
 
You should of all ready looks like a nice build coming together and with what your doing others will learn,witch this site is great for Knowledge.
 
i haven been playing arond with the doors, changed the pins and got them lined up. they look much better now, no porblems with gaps so i think im ready to weld.
i have to buy a bottle of mig gas. now i have heard the bestfor sheet metal is c-25 but is there anything better. i have been told that "mig gas gold" is the best. which is 90% argon 10 co2. would that be a better choice?
 

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heres my gap for a little reference. yours was just looking a little wide.
 

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ok, thanks, im sure on finally fit i will be able to get it closer once the quarters are on and such
 
thanks for the idea, i dont think there is any problem with the stucture of the car, i think the floor just needs some tweeking. its very close,

I'll throw this out there, the floor IS part of the structure of the car.
 
Something else I didn't see asked, is do you have the car level? With the floor removed it will allow some twisting and bending.
 
i haven been playing arond with the doors, changed the pins and got them lined up. they look much better now, no porblems with gaps so i think im ready to weld.
i have to buy a bottle of mig gas. now i have heard the bestfor sheet metal is c-25 but is there anything better. i have been told that "mig gas gold" is the best. which is 90% argon 10 co2. would that be a better choice?
Either will work great just personal preference-the guy with the stinger in his hand makes all the difference in the world.Don't take the pressure off until you have quite a few good welds on it.Looking good!
 
Either will work great just personal preference-the guy with the stinger in his hand makes all the difference in the world.Don't take the pressure off until you have quite a few good welds on it.Looking good!

ok thanks : ) i went with gold as it was only $20 more.. bottles arent cheap though.. wow! lol
oh well time to practice more : ) im hoping a full bottle helps out coz my last bottle which i started with only lasted about an hour.
 
so i have started to weld the floor in place, started in the middle of the cross member and working outward. evreything is looking good so far. there is still a slight gap down the side of the trans hump on the passengers side. if i push it in by hand it will touch the crossmember. so i was wondering would it be ok to weld the side of the trans hump as well. amd told me "floor only needs to weld on the horizontal surfaces of the cross member" but i dont see it hurting anything to weld on the side as well. as i want i flush fit.. just thought i would ask and get someone opinion : )
 
If you use the sheet metal screws and pull it in at that point and continue welding across the floor it should stay in place once you remove the screws. As far as hurting anything I doubt it would.
 
hi everyone. i have been working on the floor this week and got it all fitted and welded into place it did take a lot of force to get things lined up in certain spots but in the end i think it has turned out really well. let me know what you guys think. and thank you everyone for your help. im sure i will need more as i progress.

does anyone have any photos of what the manual trans cut out should look like?
 

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some more from the underside
 

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and some more
 

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there is still a very small gap along the trans hump on the passengers side, which i dont think is a big deal, if i want i can push it in and plug weld it. and i still have to cut out the hole for the 4 speed shifter..
does anyone have any photos of what the hole should look like. just to give me an idea. would help : )
 
and thank you everyone for all the advice i have gotten, it has helped a lot. this is all new to me and i am learning as i go, enjoying it to! and im sure i will have more to show and ask as i progress further : )
 
and thank you everyone for all the advice i have gotten, it has helped a lot. this is all new to me and i am learning as i go, enjoying it to! and im sure i will have more to show and ask as i progress further : )

Bravo my friend.... Bravo :cheers: Looks awesome and very nice spacing on the tunnel welds... Looks almost professional.
That one side thats a little far off that your concerned about.... if you took a length 2x4 and slid it closest to the bottom curve near the flat of the floor and give it a wack it might just buckle enough to get you closer.But i would draw it in with a screw first then hit it. Back the screw off and have a peek.
 
Bravo my friend.... Bravo :cheers: Looks awesome and very nice spacing on the tunnel welds... Looks almost professional.
That one side thats a little far off that your concerned about.... if you took a length 2x4 and slid it closest to the bottom curve near the flat of the floor and give it a wack it might just buckle enough to get you closer.But i would draw it in with a screw first then hit it. Back the screw off and have a peek.

i might try that, but for now i think im just going to leave the floor as is and start working on the inner fenders : )
 
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