It didnt go as planned, new motor break in.

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PhillH

PhillH

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After two years of prep I started my 360 today for the break in, it did not go well.
First the brand new thermostat didn't open and it started getting hot, but the radiator was cold. Ugh, quickly pulled thermostat and restarted, problem solved, water circulating. Then I see the rpms dropping and check the glass fuel filter, running dry, so something is partially blocked, ugh. Start one more time to watch the fuel filter and smoke starts pouring out by the bottom of the header, passenger side. Oil is somehow squirting on it, I shut it down but to late it already catches fire, I got it out without any damage. The filter is tight so I have no idea where the oil could be coming from, it's to hot down there for research. UGGHHH!!!!! Any helpful thoughts are appreciated. :violent2:
 
Could be coming off the underside of the valve cover. My valve covers needed clearancing for the intake and that solved my leak. Did both sides.
 
Do you have a 90* filter adapter? They are notorious for leaking unless they are just RIGHT.
 
Good idea but nope, dry as a bone. Headers have cool off enough for me to get a little closer look, I see oily spot on block right below the oil filter adapter, strange, I know it's tight and I used a new rubber gasket between it and the block, the filter is dry so not coming from it's seal. ?????
 
Rusty I just looked at it, the adapter has got to be the culprit. everything else is dry but it. How do I know if it's just right, there are no alignment marks that I could see?
 
PhillH said:
How is just right?
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There is a certain sequence for the gaskets to go. Of course the large one is obvious. But the small paper and cork ones have to go a certain way. In other words, they are not interchangeable. I THINK the cork one goes on the inside and the paper one goes on the outside under the bolt head, but I am not 100% certain. It's been a long time since I messed with a 90* adapter. I know if they are swapped from how they are supposed to go, it will leak like a ***** in church.
 
Oh, thank you. I took it off the 318 that came out which did not leak curiously. There was only the paper big gasket, my kit came with a rubber one. I thought for sure there had to be one at the bolt so I went to the hardware store and got a copper one for that. Thinking I was buying insurance. Not so much I guess. At least that problem is easy fix.
 
PhillH said:
Oh, thank you. I took it off the 318 that came out which did not leak curiously. There was only the paper big gasket, my kit came with a rubber one. I thought for sure there had to be one at the bolt so I went to the hardware store and got a copper one for that. Thinking I was buying insurance. Not so much I guess. At least that problem is easy fix.
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There are three gaskets, one paper and one cork that are slightly larger than a quarter, and one big one to seal the outer ring.



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I fel your pain Phil. After 10 -12 years rebuilding my 69 i finally get a strong 360 in the car.. Couple excellent runs down the road and the lost oil pressure. note to self "cover everthing within 100 feet when sandblasting". Anyway found 360 with 727 from little red express dropped it in as bought since I had seen it run a few months earlier. Works great now other than the notorious Mopar lifter noise. LD 340, Carter afb long tube headers 2.5" exhaust, 3:91 rear diff.
As for your oil leak if it is that bad, couple of minutes running and inspecting from under neath if lucky enough to have hoist should find real soon.
 
They sell dye kits to add a glow to the oil under black light. Put it is, run it and search with the black light for the glow.
 
Rusty,

Leak? I guess you could call a leak sweat. Had me scratchin there for a mo. LOL !!

Tom
 
the right angle filter adapter has no orientation marks, that is why it is good to make a notch at 12 oclock before removing one. it is right when the filter points to the rear and down slightly, with the 1 quart filter and angled up too much the filter will hit the firewall. angled down too much the filter will hit the torsion bar, and then there is exhaust clearance. if needed u can use the shorter filter. the 3 gasket kit is P5249320, the thick cork gasket goes on the bolt on the inside, use gasket adhesive on all the gaskets, let the adhesive dry before fire up. the bolt needs to be very tight, I have not seen any torque specs, but remember the bolt is hollow-on my first 340 I snapped the bolt
 
I just use a short filter (equivalent to the PH43) with my headers instead of screwing with that stupid adapter. it comes off and goes on no problems.
 
73AbodEE said:
I just use a short filter (equivalent to the PH43) with my headers instead of screwing with that stupid adapter. it comes off and goes on no problems.
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Me too, works fine. I was going to use the adapter but after reading about leaking problems like this, I sold it, lol.
 
That is definitely the problem, I didnt know there were three gaskets, the 318 that I took out and transferred it from only had one big one, how the hell was that not leaking? Thanks for the advice everyone, I feel much better now. I sure hope none of this fiasco has hurt the engine during break in, I've only got about 8 or 10 minutes into it. As for the fuel line I'm just going to run a hose till I get everything straight then I'll replace with a new stainless. I have never had a thermostat go bad stuck closed in all my years, always open, now trying to be very careful during break in I get a brand new one stuck closed, murphy's law.
 
The old gasket needs to be scraped off too. I installed one and it leaked. I took it off and noticed there was a painted gasket already welded onto the block, took a scraper to get it off.
 
Is the ph43 a regular stocked filter at auto stores, that sounds like the route for me!
 
Hot motor breaks in better than a cold one.....never run a hose in the radiator to break a motor in, you need to get it to temp as fast as possible. I jyst aw a thread that the PH-43 was discontinued by Fram, but it crosses to others.
 
PhillH said:
Is the ph43 a regular stocked filter at auto stores, that sounds like the route for me!
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Yeah, I get my filters at NAPA. Get the equivalent, not sure on the number, either WIX or NAPA Gold.

PH43 is a Fram filter.

I think NAPA gold 1068.
 
PhillH said:
Is the ph43 a regular stocked filter at auto stores, that sounds like the route for me!
Click to expand...

Bad Sport said:
Yeah, I get my filters at NAPA. Get the equivalent, not sure on the number, either WIX or NAPA Gold.

PH43 is a Fram filter.

I think NAPA gold 1068.
Click to expand...

yes , and you might as well get 2 of them because after your break in , you are going to want to dump that oil and filter. make sure you get zinc rich oil after you dump what you have. I have already changed mine 3 times in 100 miles because I like overkill
 
that is why it is a good idea to throw a new thermostat in a pot of boiling water. I have a hard time with the 318 having an angle filter mount and only 1 gasket not leaking, the 318 must have had a standard volume oil pump. my 340 has a 7 quart pan and a high volume pump, and I like overkill so I run a 1 quart oil filter
 
The good news, shoot, the BEST news is you didn't damage it. You can still finish the break in.
 
When we put Jake's 318 in, the 90* adapter we used looked and felt like it fit correctly.... That puppy dumped A LOT of oil out at the 1st start up. Turns out the center of the adapter and the center of the block where it mounts were too much and the adapter did not seal against the block...Would have taken a double gasket (the large one) Took the one off the 273 and have no issues. We could have the center of the other one machined down? maybe one day if needed.
 
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