It's winter - time for upgrades

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MB43

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Well, it's winter time again. Time to start planning upgrades...

I've got an aluminum radiator that's been sitting in my garage for the last couple of years, that's going in. And the MSD distributor that's been sitting in the box next to the radiator is going in, too.

I figure while I've got the radiator out I might as well change the cam. I'm thinking something like the MP 509 (P4120233) or the Comp 507/510 lift jammie (225-4). Anybody have any other suggestions?

Specs on the motor and car are here: http://www.burwoodboysracing.com/about_the_car.htm
 
Stab a small solid cam in it like the comp cams XS274.

Im hoping to get a set of TTI headers so I can get the 340 in to the Scamp.
 
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention... no NOS.

Adam - why the solid instead of the big hydraulic?
 
No upgrades for me this winter Mikel. Just want to finish what I started for now.

By the way, I have a new MP 284/484 complete with lifters, (cam kit) if you your interested it will be cheap for you.

Jack
 
Hey Jack -

Thanks, but that's not much of an upgrade from what I've got now. I'm looking for something bigger!

Adam - I'll have a look at the solid cams. Maybe...
 
Mikel, you'll gain power all around going to a solid. You will need new pushrods and springs though.
 

They will most likely be longer because there is no plunger in the lifter.
 
Lifter height is different? Dependent on manufacturer?

The one thing I know for sure about the push rod change reason is the adjustable rocker end is a cup, not a ball OR if you went with the MoPar adjustable P-rods, the adjustment would be a twist and lock nut.

Skip the solid, go roller! :)
 
Adam - that cam looks a little big, no?

Rumble... No roller for me, too expensive. What are you talking about with adjustable pushrods?
 
Mikel, a solid cam will act smaller then a hyd of the same duration. I dont that cam would be any more radical then the 509. It would probably idle about the same.
 
MoPar sold or still sells adjustable pushrods. There a P-rod that screws into a p-rod with a locking nut(s) to keep it inplace. There made adjustable for ease of use and a inexpensive way to get around new gear over and over again.

I think it was huges that said look at a Solid as 6* smaller than a comparable Hyd cam due to lash.

I gotta rest before work. I can stay awake much more. Eyes a burnin. TTYL Mike/ Adam
 
Ah, got it. I'll check out some solids then...

How much maintenance is required with a solid cam as opposed to a hydraulic? I don't think I took my valve covers off at all this season, I'm guessing I'd have to adjust the valves with a solid cam every so often?
 
Yes. Some adjusting may be needed. If the times fall off or clatter comes about, it's time. It should not be like a weekly thing mind you, just once in awhile.
 
Ah, ok. I'll give Hughes a call and see what they recommend. I'll probably need new springs too, no?
 
mikelbeck said:
Ah, ok. I'll give Hughes a call and see what they recommend. I'll probably need new springs too, no?


Yes but you "should" swap springs even with a new Hyd cam. I say "should" because Im sure more of us will recommend it then actually do it.
 
As for the cam seeming big, the one in my 340 is 260/265 @ .050 with about .580" lift. I have talked to a few cam companies about something smaller to pick up some low end torque and the all recommended something in the 250/260 range and to switch to a Performer RPM in place of my victor.

Ive decided its not worth the trouble or money right now so Im just going to try it first. My motor is 11:1 AND i HAVE A 4500RPM CONVERTER AND PLAN TO USE 4.10 GEARS.

Sorry about the caps, LOL
 
And here I am thinking of Comps soild 270 magum 224@ .050 for my 318 with 3.91 gears. Yes soilds came stock with the 273 then the smog crap started happening. I hear nothing but great things about those cams, but I waiting till spring to put mine in.
 
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