JB Weld Ball Joints?

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seabee said:
Thanks, it might work.

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Ya think maybe Seabee's got a sense of humour or is he just "strange".:yawinkle:
 
Well, after a week with no contact from the "welder" looks like i'm out another $60 and a control arm. I'm debating buying FirmFeel's Tubulars, something I'm kicking myself for not doing 6 months ago. I need to stop cutting corners and just cough up the $$$ for the good stuff. Having a "Daily driver" without the driving part is costing me too much headache.
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mbaird said:
That's so funny ... I can barely type ....lol

Yeah , don't be a "Puppy Killer" . Do it right .

Although , I once rode my dirtbike 10 miles with a vicegrip holding the axle in place .


Yeah... I was young....
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Worse I knew a guy that drove his car with vise grip holding steering mount to frame , , some people need mandatory inspections , lucky he never killed anyone .
 
You guys are just so funny; Take the guy's serious thread and make jokes.Take the jokes into the proper forum.
 
green1 said:
You guys are just so funny; Take the guy's serious thread and make jokes.Take the jokes into the proper forum.
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Your a lot of help ..if thats all you have to say go away you must be single:wack:
 
green1 said:
You guys are just so funny; Take the guy's serious thread and make jokes.Take the jokes into the proper forum.
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Unless you didn't read the whole thread, the O.P. is the one that came up with the pic of the tin foil control arm, we just went with it.....
Sheesh man, let up.
 
waggin said:
send them back...if they dont fit proper then they werent made proper....welding them in will work but ........they should fit right....Just sayin...........
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Not necessarily true. This is a pretty common problem due as mentioned, to the less than stellar design of the threading surface. You have to judge how bad it is to decide on the right or best course of action. The best solution and the only thing to do if they have actually failed in service is to replace the arm. You can weld (not tack) one back in, but then you got a boogered up POS. If they just don't torque down right on replacement, tacking them in is a viable option.

I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw the JB Weld reference. That's the only reason I started reading this thread. :wack:
 
the correct factory approved method of repairing this common problem is to
weld the new ball joint to the control arm, this is actually stronger than it was when new
the only down side is you need to grind off the weld or replace the control arm the next time the ball joint needs to be replaced (that is why it is a good idea to use a new quality ball joint when you do this)

I also had a ball joint pop out on my car a few years ago
turns out someone didn't torque them down tight enough the first time
threaded it back in torqued ti down GOOD and tight and it's been fine ever since
I now check them every so often but is has not come loose in a number of years and several thousand miles of driving
 
caferacerx said:
...the only down side is you need to grind off the weld or replace the control arm the next time the ball joint needs to be replaced ...
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You mean just "replace the control arm," right? You weld one in and that is the last one that arm will ever see, depending of course on your appetite for boogering up control arms.

The only reason that is a "factory approved" method is because it will save money and get it out of warranty after some yay-hoo over-torqued one on the assembly line.
 
nothing wrong with carefully grinding away the weld replacing the ball joint and re welding it back in place, just more work, not buggered as long as it's a nice clean weld

but I would use the time between welding the first new ball joint in and when I may need to eventually replace it to find a good control arm and just keep it in reserve
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
I think I have an upper cntrl arm, if I do ...u can have it.
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Thanks Bud. I got those Firm Feel UCA's a while back after my requests for a welder was shot down by the Mrs.. Everything has been fine so far.

A big expensive lesson learned: No more foreign parts, and no more craigslist fabricators.
 
seabee said:
Thanks Bud. I got those Firm Feel UCA's a while back after my requests for a welder was shot down by the Mrs.. Everything has been fine so far.

A big expensive lesson learned: No more foreign parts, and no more craigslist fabricators.
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lol no doubt.

If u have the time and need anything welded in the future, wade is the pro.
 
abodyjoe said:
jb weld? your nuts.. if anything have then actually tack welded in there.
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X2!! Dont use the JB,it's your life and the others around you right,so be safe.

Have the bj's tack welded in like Joe suggested and you'll never have to worry about it again.
 
mbaird said:
That's so funny ... I can barely type ....lol

Yeah , don't be a "Puppy Killer" . Do it right .
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With that quote, and the aluminum control arm constructed by SeaBee, this is the funniest thread on FABO since the transmission-goat joke. LOL!!!
 
it is perfectly acceptable to weld the ball joints in this time. this is a one time deal and the arm will need to be replace next time for sure. the absolute correct way is to replace the arm. when the ball joint comes loose nobody is going to get killed. the whole thing stays right in place, which is what happened to seebee. if you can't find a replacement arm AFCO has the sockets to weld in.
 
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