Jeff's 727 rebuild thread

-
crackedback said:
If you ever have to do another, you know how to do it and have the equipment to get it done.

I don't recall any tools that were specialized. I've used C clamp and made some things out of steel stock.

Keep it up!
Click to expand...
Yup....by time I'm done, I'll feel confident to do another....!
(But someone else can do the pull and replace! )

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
It occurs to me that after all the parts and tools, it about half the cost of having a shop do it.
Of course also a ton of labor and learning etc on my part.

So why do it?
My motto...built - not bought.

Anyone can save up their pennies and write checks....that's not why I do this.
There's a LOT to be said about the pride of doing it yourself.

A few weeks from now, when she's running again, this is all water under the bridge.
And it's actually pretty fun!

Jeff
Click to expand...
And all your non-gearhead family, friends and co-workers will be impressed with your mechanical ability, and then might want you to fix theirs!:eek:
 
I got the valve body finished with the shift kit.....
Thank god for digital cameras!
Had to do a little drilling here and there and file this notch...all in all not too hard...

image000000-10.jpg


Started moving on to the sub-assemblies
Used my new press tool. ...worked great. But I did put some little c-clamps to hold the ears in the snap ring grooves...

image000000-6.jpg

image000000-4.jpg

image000000-3.jpg

Gonna start pressing bushings today...

A couple of questions
My tailshaft bushing has these notches (2) at one end...
What are they for and how do they align in the tailshaft.
Also, what is the little window for?
image000000-12.jpg


Also, what is the purpose of these 4 check balls on the pump?
image000000-7.jpg


Onward and upward!

Jeff
 
Pure guess on the notches on the bushing but maybe for alignment purposes with certain tailshafts, or to align with some specific tool after installed? Those ball looking things are plugs for the cross drilling of the oil pump ports. Gotta pull that pump apart anyway, then you'll see how it all works.
 
Last edited:
Yes. Dont remove those four balls. They are permanently there from manufacture. The window in the tailshaft bushing is to allow atf to lube the slip yoke and bushing. Be sure to index it the same as the existing one. I have put the notches aft before, freeze the bushings and warm the tailshaft before installation. I use some red loctite sparingly on them. Before you reassemble everything make sure your slip yoke fits the new installed bushing nicely.
 
Last edited:
Like already said, the window in the bushing aligns with the ridge inside the tailshaft housing, and the balls are there to plug the holes where the hub was drilled for the oil ports and then capped with those balls.

The notches being forward or back don't matter, but they face the rear in the normal OEM assembly.
 
Just a heads up. If using the flex style band on the front drum rather than the factory style rigid band. Check the case for casting flash interference.

We got ours all together tonite and went to double check endplay and noticed we had none. Upon inspection we found the front band was wedged between the drum and some casting flash on the case.

So I guess we're going to have to gut the entire case again and clean up that casting flash with the die grinder next weekend. Pic below.

Just figured I'd give you a heads up to save you the headache we just got. Lol



IMG_3565.JPG
 
Quick question guys.....my old tailshaft rear seal had a weep hole but the new seal in the kit does not.....
Ok to use the new one?

Thanks in advance!

Jeff
 
Also, the yoke seal on the original (on left), is much taller than the new one.....is this an issue and/or the weep hole (above post)????

IMAG1480.jpg

IMAG1485.jpg


Jeff
 
The originals had the long dust boot with a weep hole. The new style does not have the long dust boot. They both work just fine. Personally I prefer the original style as the help to keep the slip yoke from pulling crap into the seal. You can still buy the original style, likely from Chrysler and certainly from any decent trans supplier.
 

KickDown said:
I have come across this symptom quite often especially after a TF-2 has been fitted. What actually is happening. With the increase in KD lever ratio, the intermediate band will certainly release slower. If the band has not fully released before the High clutch has engaged you will have an overlap situation as the transmission is in 2nd & 3rd gear for a split second. The way I have overcome this is either to fit both the small & large diameter return springs to the intermediate servo piston. This will speed up the release of the intermediate band. Or increase the number of return springs on the reverse/ high clutch piston. With a 4.2 lever you will definately need at least 12 springs. This measure will slow the application of the rev/high clutch. It is a trial & error scenario until the 2 events are in sync. In extreme cases I have tapped the rev/high clutch orifice with a 1/8 NPT thread & have several 1/8 NPT plugs with different sized holes for each one. On an overhaul I dont usually go anything above a 3.8 lever unless the transmission is being used with a FMVB or a RMVB.
Click to expand...

@KickDown
I'm ready to reassemble and bought the springs and a 3.8:1 apply lever.
Since I have 15 springs, should I use all 15 or just 12 like you said..?

Jeff
 
I've had good experience (call it luck if you want) with 12 springs in combination with the 3.8 lever. That would be my personal choice. I think that with 15 springs, the rev/high clutch application may be delayed a split second too long causing a mild engine flare on the 2-3 shift. This is bad because the flare generates heat within the clutch before it is fully applied, thus shortening it's life span. Go with 12 & I think you will be fine.
 
KickDown said:
I've had good experience (call it luck if you want) with 12 springs in combination with the 3.8 lever. That would be my personal choice. I think that with 15 springs, the rev/high clutch application may be delayed a split second too long causing a mild engine flare on the 2-3 shift. This is bad because the flare generates heat within the clutch before it is fully applied, thus shortening it's life span. Go with 12 & I think you will be fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks.....12 it is!

Jeff
 
I agree with the 12..... I got 15 in mine and it's a bit laggy... No issues just gets on your nerves..
I think you will like the 12 better... :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Similar threads

A
727 With Gearvendors Unit in 65 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
Replies
2
Views
332
Austin Spencer
A
A
Trans Output and Pinion Angle
Replies
1
Views
203
mopowers
mopowers
A
Just got a 727, need advice for a refresh
Replies
9
Views
882
JDMopar
JDMopar
A
Extremely Dissapointed in my TTI exhaust and headers maybe someone can help with my fitment issues and provide some guidance
2
Replies
49
Views
2K
lemondana
lemondana
harrytoes
318 2bbl Rebuild
Replies
20
Views
2K
JDMopar
JDMopar
Back
Top Bottom