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Cool video, thanks for sharing!
Is poop hard to wash out of a racing seat? Asking for a friend.
That first Biscayne looks like the annual wheelie contest they have here at Byron Dragway
I was happy to see that no Mopars were injured while filming.
What it got me thinking about was brakes.......... normal car you want 60to80% stopping power on the front tires. Skinny pizza cutting tire on the front requires a hole different bias. When i upgrade my brakes i think i'm going to us a different proportioning valve then the adj one that only takes braking away from the rear.........
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Lemme know how that works out. I got an adjustable one. It looks like I'm gonna finally get around to changing to discs this winter. Santa promised me new torsion bars. I have everything else in totes in the garage. Thanx
This winter is front suspension, not enough money in the piggy bank for brake this winter. I take it you have skinnys and Wide slick out back?
I take it you have skinnys and Wide slick out back? Yes
That 'mero driver was sure aimin for 'im!!
k I'm not saying that the rear adj proportioning valve is a bad idea.......You may be able to balance it just fine. I don't know. If yours is a foot braking car(assuming it a auto car) it might hold a little bit more stall pressure, without pushing it thru the lights. mine is a factory drum brake car with the factory drum brake proportioning valve that i put disc brakes up front with a new disc brake master cyl. so it's a bit of a mismatch. but i can't hold my car under full throttle. pushes thru the lights. Adj the proportioning valve to 0 resistance may make the rear brake lock up first and and im just taking out my arrsss(and i am) It would be interesting to know how it all shakes down with a panic stop.....before you have to do a panic stop.
The driver in the black diesel truck didn't seem too worried that his vehicle was on fire, get out the marshmallows. LMAO!!!
His ass was a marshmallows LOL By the time he got stopped it was a little old fire under the hood. Diesel fuel is kind slippery, good thing it was half burned up by the time it got to his rear slicks(jokes )
I love how two one wheel wheel stands didn't end too bad! impressive!
I gutted my P-valve and adjust rear bias with wheel cylinder size. 235s up front,295/325s out back. 100% streeter. Stops real nice with full pressure to the rear lines. To me it looked like some of those cars could maybe have avoided the carnage with more rear brake for sure, or at least eased the repair times. But as a streeter, what do I know.
Thanks Mr AJ Street. Thanks for taking the time to post on the racing forum. never even thought about setting the rear pressure with a wheel cyl diameter.....Thats a good idea. So lets see smaller wheel cyl piston less pressure, larger piston = more....Right. That may be something i can incorporate into my winter repairs.
You only have one pressure to work with which varies as to how hard you are pushing,lol. But I get what you mean; the bigger the piston, the more force it will exert on the pushpins. It's all about force times area. But AFAIK you only have three sizes of rear WCs from Mopar . 7/8,15/16,and 1.00 However the smaller ones will jump out further and faster on the same pedal stroke. Using 1000 psi as the line-force; out the WCs it would be 601/690/and 785, or about 92 psi average increase, per size.. The factory P-valve is pretty harsh in comparison. I can't remember what I got out of it but it wasn't much. Certainly not enough to hardly slow the tires down back there, that were twice as wide, and more,than the factory pizza cutters. The w/cs on my combo are not too big. I would try larger but I think I'm already at 1.0, and the car stops so nice as it is, that I'm too lazy to mess with it. Oh yeah, I should probably mention that I run 24psi in the back full-time (295s on 10s), so my contact patch may be a lil longer than what some guys run. That will make a difference too. And I run those hockey-puck-hard BFG Radial T/As. So all in all,for you, with race tires and even lower pressures, Ima thinking to try 1.125s (994psi@ 1000 input). But again, I suppose that would depend on your friction materials and surfaces,etc. I run the KH 4-piston jobs up front and 10 x 2s out back.With organic stuff, cuz it's easy to modulate and is easy on the hard parts. Just spit-balling. Good luck to you.
Thanks for that and i'm going to do some experimenting. Manual 1" master up front, stock 73 caliper and brakes up front(E-body) and 10 X???2-1/2 drum out back. no clue at this point on which syl size in back.
Some yearsago,I removed a narrowed rear from a racecar, to install an 8.75 for street duty. That racer had a spool in there, Moser axles, 5.38s, and 11x3 brakes back there. I slammed the 5.38s into my street car, and ran it until it started spitting out teeth. I ran the spool in my 4.30s exactly one week, then ripped it out, I couldn't stand the way it cornered at normal throttle settings. But I digress..... Point I wanted to make was, he had the 11x3s I haven't figured out what to do with those parts yet.
Everybody wants to run those skinny fronts to gain maybe 0.010 et. I have been out of shape before and I want some rubber there for grip. It's bracket racing right, just dial it in.
I think 11x3 brakes are what he is saying not rims.
Too much fun, literally. The diesels ...the amount garbage blowing out those pipes makes the rest of us look eco friendly . But those things are only making the argument for the environmental wack jobs who want to shut it down.
This maybe a dumb observation but why don't they pull the chute?
I don't thing you have time. If you pull the chute when it first gets out of hand then ok. but once it a full on"out of control" deal your two hands are way too busy to let go of the wheel to grab the chute lever.