K7103 Offset Upper Control Arm Bushings

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George R

George R

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How much additional CAMBER can be acheived with the offset C arm bushings as opposed to the stock style?
Thanks in advance!

George
 
The offset bushings offer more CASTER than stock. That is a more important setting than camber.
 
No they are not.

They were designed for sagging frames to bring back lost CAMBER.

It was Ehrenberg who installed them backwards for additional CASTER, where they happen to work quite well.
 
But does anyone know how far "off center" the hole is in the bushing??

George
 
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Does anyone know the offset compared to stock? In other words, if the bolt hole in the stock bushing is centered, how far off center is the bolt hole in the offset bushing? I'm just trying to see if these bushings will fix my problem, or if I need to go another route. I will be able to tell if I have this dimension.
Also, is K7103 the correct number for this part? I'll bring that number to NAPA and order them.
Thanks for the help, guys.

George
 
GMachineDartGT said:
Probably a 1.00-1.50 deg is my guess. Did you have the car aligned and have problems?
Click to expand...
No, still mocking the car up.
The car was hit on the pass side many years ago. It was hit right on the R/F tire, which pushed the frame rail in, as well as up. I made templates from a known good frame, and I cut, straightened, welded and strengthened the area. Upon reassembly, I see that I could have brought the frame rail outboard about another 3/8" or so. As it is now, I can't pull enough CAMBER to make the tire zeroº unless I pull NEG Caster on it. I readjusted the ride height, shortened the strut rod bushing, and I think with the offset UCA bushings I'll be AOK. It's hard to tell on the garage floor, but things look good now. I ordered a set of Moog K7103 and I'll pick them up tomorrow PM.

Reason I was asking for the amount of offset is so I can see if that will put the camber at zero. If I can do that in the garage, and still have positive caster, I know I'll be OK come alignment time.

Thanks for all the help guys. Between all that chassis work, and reworking my Hooker fenderwells so I can actually turn the car, I'm ready to put this phase behind me and start getting the car ready for paint.

George
 
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