Keeping it Mopar Ignition Upgrade Cheap

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JGC403

JGC403

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I had read about the HEI ignition upgrade that TrailBeast sells on here and almost bought one, but I'm broke right now. After reading into it a little more and looking at the additional upgrades that is recommended for the HEI kit to work at its full potential like the longer tip rotor and the relayed 12volt power instead of factory wiring, I thought why wouldn't this work for the Mopar Ignition boxes.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the HEI kit. I'm just trying to keep it cheap for now and a rotor, relay, and some wiring isn't that expensive

I'm going to do a complete ignition upgrade including new cap, plugs, and wires. Then do the 2 upgrades and see if I can notice a difference.

Any thoughts? Will I notice a difference with these 2 "upgrades".
 
If your Mopar system is properly working, you won't see much difference, if any.

The relay is an alternative to actually getting the wiring "back to" full specs, as the wiring path from the battery......through the bulkhead, ammeter, switch, connectors, and back out the bulkhead is often less than "up to snuff."

This same switched ignition supply also supplies your regulator (and a couple other things on some cars) and can cause OVER charging.
 
You can go HEI much cheaper. I pulled all the parts at the junkyard for <$20. Look for a GM V-8 truck 1985-95 (car to 93). Get the factory cable that goes from the module (under distributor cap) to the coil (plug n' play). Be sure to get the pickup connector at the module and the interlocked connectors on the coil.
 
I like cheap too! I went with Mopar electronic ignition only because I had it sitting in the garage. You may want to take advice from Bill though on the HEI ignition, I hear it works better.
 
NO no, keep it Mopar, do not use GM parts, that's a sin

The above was 3 years ago, below is the engine today, still waiting for a problem to arise and I know it cannot last as the distributor only cost me $70. with the coil in cap, yet I had to remove all those good things associated with Mopar like the ballast, wires, chrome box and all the spaghetti from the engine compartment...
 
Pinhead = Pinstripers International Network Historic Exotic Artistic Designs

I was a member since day One..
 
BillGrissom said:
You can go HEI much cheaper. I pulled all the parts at the junkyard for <$20. Look for a GM V-8 truck 1985-95 (car to 93). Get the factory cable that goes from the module (under distributor cap) to the coil (plug n' play). Be sure to get the pickup connector at the module and the interlocked connectors on the coil.
Click to expand...

I'd like to mention that one can mess with it for days and never get it running too. (which you already know)
When that happens I'll be sure and let you help them. :glasses7:

My kits are guaranteed to run, drive tested, come with instructions, and I supply support for them via [email protected] as well as by phone.

What's that worth? :supz:

Let me add that I use the 8 pin module instead of the old 4 pin style, and it uses weatherpack waterproof connectors instead of blade style that are open to corrosion and loose connections.
AND all the critical connections are prewired so they don't have to wonder if it's hooked up right, plus all my connections are soldered and heatshrink covered.
 
Shouldn't take much to verify. Simply power up and spin the distributor by hand and see if it sparks. You do need to ground the distributor body to BATT-. Also twist the pickup wires for shielding. Run a spark tester right off the coil lead.

The 85-95 trucks I mentioned have the 8-pin HEI modules. Also termed "small cap distributor". As I stated, you just unplug and take the GM cable which runs from the module to coil. It is Weather-pack connectors. The other 2 connectors you snip off w/ extra wire (fun to molest GM vehicles). Many photos on-line if you search, including mine here.

Not usurping TrailBeast's business. I described this all a month or so before he started his ClassicHEI as far as I can tell. Not my idea, I got it all off the megasquirt site and others.
 
BillGrissom said:
Shouldn't take much to verify. Simply power up and spin the distributor by hand and see if it sparks. You do need to ground the distributor body to BATT-. Also twist the pickup wires for shielding. Run a spark tester right off the coil lead.

The 85-95 trucks I mentioned have the 8-pin HEI modules. Also termed "small cap distributor". As I stated, you just unplug and take the GM cable which runs from the module to coil. It is Weather-pack connectors. The other 2 connectors you snip off w/ extra wire (fun to molest GM vehicles). Many photos on-line if you search, including mine here.

Not usurping TrailBeast's business. I described this all a month or so before he started his ClassicHEI as far as I can tell. Not my idea, I got it all off the megasquirt site and others.
Click to expand...

Not the point Bill,
The point is that not everyone is capable of going to a yard, pulling the right the parts, assembling them correctly making the car run.
The part I get kind of annoyed about is that it is made to sound so easy and nothing to it.
Then they try it and thier car doesn't run for days because of some simple reason that you, I and a handfull of other people here could easily find if we were there with it instead of looking at a fuzzy picture and not even knowing for sure what was used for a ground.

As far as my business part of it, I don't care if others do it, or if others tell others how.
I know that some people can't do it, or don't want to try it, and those are mine.
I try to help people on here that try it and can't make em run for whatever reason. (including sending them wire diagrams and pictures)
I only sell assembled ready to run kits to have some extra money for things I want or need for my own car, and if not for that reason I probably wouldn't build them at all.

Please know that I harbor no ill will towards you about this at all, and that I will continue to help as much as I can when people need it.

But when someone says "Bill told me that it was really easy" I'm going to be really tempted to suggest they contact you, so you can spend your time on it. :D
 
JGC403 specifically said he wants to keep it cheap. That means some effort, like pulling parts at a junkyard. Little extra effort for me since I go once a year anyway with a list on half-off day. My motivation is also re-use since I hate to see good stuff crushed, even non-Mopar. One advantage of junkyard diving is you can also grab the knock sensor parts from the same engine, if you plan to someday use a Holley Commander 950 or similar controller that uses a knock signal.

Same parts TrailBeast sells, less the heat sink plate, so should be a similar install effort. If any questions, not my problem since not getting paid to spoon-feed, like TrailBeast is. Plenty of info if one searches. I can see why many prefer buying a kit since easy, plus new parts and instructions. If an armchair shopper, you can also buy used parts off ebay.

I post photos of the GM parts (85-95 V-8 trucks, -93 cars). The red & wht cable is the GM factory part I discussed. Easy to unplug and take. Snip the grn & wht wires at the round GM pickup and connect them to your Mopar distributor pickup (add proper double bullet connector), but first use wire nuts since 50/50 chance of getting polarity right. Twist the pickup wires so no "positive feedback" buzzes.
 

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TrailBeast said:
I'd like to mention that one can mess with it for days and never get it running too. (which you already know)
When that happens I'll be sure and let you help them. :glasses7:

My kits are guaranteed to run, drive tested, come with instructions, and I supply support for them via [email protected] as well as by phone.

What's that worth? :supz:

Let me add that I use the 8 pin module instead of the old 4 pin style, and it uses weatherpack waterproof connectors instead of blade style that are open to corrosion and loose connections.
AND all the critical connections are prewired so they don't have to wonder if it's hooked up right, plus all my connections are soldered and heatshrink covered.
Click to expand...

Am I correct in assuming that in addition to your kit, I would also need a factory electronic distributor? (I'm currently running points/condenser)

Thanks,
-J
 
jalake said:
Am I correct in assuming that in addition to your kit, I would also need a factory electronic distributor? (I'm currently running points/condenser)

Thanks,
-J
Click to expand...

Yes, either factory or aftermarket.
Or, if you converted the points to an electronic system like Pertronics.
Then you wouldn't need the HEI module, just a coil.

Personally, I like having all common parts I can replace any day any where.
Not have to order a replacement and wait for it to ship.
 
TrailBeast said:
Yes, either factory or aftermarket.
Or, if you converted the points to an electronic system like Pertronics.
Then you wouldn't need the HEI module, just a coil.

Personally, I like having all common parts I can replace any day any where.
Not have to order a replacement and wait for it to ship.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Haven't decided which direction I'm going to go at this point. Converting away from points is still a few steps down the line.

-J
 
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