Kframe, engine bay, front suspension questions

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So continuing with cleaning up light surface rust spots. Taking it down to bare metal. Picked up a tube of seam sealer as it looked light in some spots. I'm leaning towards spray bombs, hopefully get a deal on 4-6 bombs of it. When I spray should my "stop" line be where I put the green tape on the flange on firewall in pic?
Thanks
Steve

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Okay picked up some high build aerosol from same company(Dominion Sure Seal) as the Self Etching primer. Removed all surface rust, primed and topped with high build. I'll sand with 320 and then 400. Any tricks?
Also how to go about the spray bombing?
Start at top of firewall from one side to the other? Sorry for newbie questions, hoping for as good of results within reason lol.
3 in 1 is the high build

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4spdragtop said:
Start at top of firewall from one side to the other? Sorry for newbie questions, hoping for as good of results within reason lol.
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i try to get the nooks and crannies first. the angles tend to be hard to get and it may take a number of shots to get in there, risking runs if the area around them has already been done. also it easier to shoot full rattle cans off angle, so i tend to go from underneath first.

lookin' good so far :thumbsup:
 
4spdragtop said:
Wasnt sure which sub forum to post in, as everything I do seems to "domino".
I have "roller" front suspension removed from our 69. I removed rust and primed/painted and bedliner the pass side inner fender(outboard side). Drivers side is stripped and getting prepped.
I would like to paint engine bay once I clear out the rest of engine bay. It's been seam sealed and about 95% "ready" for paint.
Once bay has been painted i would like to install restored kframe and suspension.
So, painting engine bay....I can get an exact match in aerosol from Dupont for $42/can, 69 F8 Green. Not sure how many cans to do the bay and both outboard sides of inner fenders? OR do I paint gun it? We have neighbors directly on either side of us, so overspray and fumes may/probably will be an issue if I "gun" it.
So spray or gun?
Keep in mind I am trying to simply assemble and make progress while putting refurb parts on car(free up space). All while trying to make it more presentable for sale.
I would like it to look respectable tho.
Next the suspension.....is there an order of install for torsion bars forward? It's on axle stands now with most of the front suspension off.
I guess to sum up, should I rattle can or spray the bay? Keep in mind neighbours and a virgin sprayer lol.
Also order of assembly for refurb kframe and front suspension?
Pics as it is now.
Lol grandson Knox giving me a hand, can see him wondering wth have you done Papa!! Lol
Thanks
Steve

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I read up to the aerosol can part, you'll need at least 3 cans, probably 4.
I'm using spray Max custom colors and doing my front windshield seal and pillars and cowl and I know for a fact I barely have enough paint to do it with one can. The primer can barely got it covered, white primer 3 + 1
 
I'm figuring I'll use approx 6 cans. Spray Max is the same stuff I'm using. Axalta?? Not a lot for $42, 192gms. Less than half if the primer and double the $$. When I go to order I'll make sure to get their opinion on coverage.
Thanks all for comments/advice.

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Slow progress, mostly sanding, spraying, sanding some more lol. More pieces to the puzzle showed up today, thanks to @CFD244 :thumbsup:. The kframe was por15'd years ago lol. I wish I had cleaned up the gobby factory welds.
Better than it was tho.
Need all 4 tie rod ends and 1 lower ball joint I think for parts to complete the front end.
Thanks Troy, gotta scrub and paint over that Napa/Ferd blue.

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I had the paint store next door to work color match my hood in spray cans $20 each. I used 3 cans and am VERY Happy with the results

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Heads up- I had the local paint shop match my EE1 dark blue ploy in Spraymax 2K cans. Used same day and continuously agitated, the last 1/4 of the can sprayed very dry with LOTS more metal flake. Maybe caused by how or who mixed the paint or filled the cans, I dont know. Keep a sharp eye…
 
Thanks, I'm going to ask the supplier about sanding between coats. Flash time is approx 5 minutes, but there's no way I will be able to get all coats on before its cured.
Maybe keeping cans inverted while.not being used may help with mixing
I'm thinking 600 grit between coats?
geminimotors said:
Heads up- I had the local paint shop match my EE1 dark blue ploy in Spraymax 2K cans. Used same day and continuously agitated, the last 1/4 of the can sprayed very dry with LOTS more metal flake. Maybe caused by how or who mixed the paint or filled the cans, I dont know. Keep a sharp eye…
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4spdragtop said:
Thanks, I'm going to ask the supplier about sanding between coats. Flash time is approx 5 minutes, but there's no way I will be able to get all coats on before its cured.
Maybe keeping cans inverted while.not being used may help with mixing
I'm thinking 600 grit between coats?
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Maybe have 2 or more cans shaken, ready to activate, so on the most visible areas, you spray the cream of the crop uninterupted, and use the bottom halves of the cans for less visible spots?
 
Its 1k, so I believe it's already "activated"?? That's a great idea using full cans for obvious areas and 1/2 cans for discrete spots. Thanks!:thumbsup:
geminimotors said:
Maybe have 2 or more cans shaken, ready to activate, so on the most visible areas, you spray the cream of the crop uninterupted, and use the bottom halves of the cans for less visible spots?
Click to expand...
 
Picked up six pack of bombs. Got final sanding and wiped down with degreaser. Put new seam sealer down by trans tunnel. 4 coats on each inner fender.
Not bad for coverage and evenness I guess. Well see if how it looks tomorrow. Skipped the firewall, I noticed some fuzzies where the firewall and inner fender met so I'll let that dry before cleaning it up. Glad I got 6 cans. 2 left for firewall and rad cradle.

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4spdragtop said:
What grit should I start with? Compound?
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i'd lightly wet sand it with 1500 or 2000. do a small section and see you it matters to you. is it getting a clear coat? also don't know if you have time to let it dry a few weeks, but it's a good time to wax all that paint too
 
It looks good, Steve.
BTW, F8 green is my favorite color.
On the mixed automotive paint in a can thing, I did a '69 Valiant front fender last fall and it took one entire can for that and it turned out very well.
 
Thanks guys, yeah i was hoping for better coverage. I made up some "guides" to help with keeping proper distance when applying. Took 4 coats, 1st 2 were about 9" away, and last 2 were 6" away. I didnt really want to clear, was hoping this would be "good enough", so as to install kframe and some of the front suspension.
The F8 green actually looks better in person than the pics.
Suggestions on wetsanding base coat? How long to wait to sand? 2-3 days?
Thanks all.
kursplat said:
i'd lightly wet sand it with 1500 or 2000. do a small section and see you it matters to you. is it getting a clear coat? also don't know if you have time to let it dry a few weeks, but it's a good time to wax all that paint too
Click to expand...

Dartnut said:
It looks good, Steve.
BTW, F8 green is my favorite color.
On the mixed automotive paint in a can thing, I did a '69 Valiant front fender last fall and it took one entire can for that and it turned out very well.
Click to expand...

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i like the divining rods. what's the weather doing where you are? warm and dry, 50% humidity? try a little section after 24hrs and see if sands well or balls up
 
Mid 20's on the Canuck scale. 68%humdiddee.
Still touch ups to do ...:BangHead:
kursplat said:
i like the divining rods. what's the weather doing where you are? warm and dry, 50% humidity? try a little section after 24hrs and see if sands well or balls up
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More progress, engine bay painting is done. No clearcoat. It was a spray bomb job anyway. Wasnt expecting a showpiece, just happy to have kframe in after at least 10 years of being out.
On with the front end puzzle.
I know I need all 4 tie rod ends, torsion bar boots and clips.
Thanks again all.

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