Kframe, engine bay, front suspension questions
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
- Start date
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Got it on. TWICE!
Thanks Chuck! Pic is of crossmember ends pass side. "892". The "R" goes in LCA socket, just to confirm?
Thanks Chuck! Pic is of crossmember ends pass side. "892". The "R" goes in LCA socket, just to confirm?
After doing some reading it looks like the L and R go to the rear. I took LCA right off to put tbar in to rear socket from front. Then reinstalled LCA. Combo of antiseize and grease in the sockets and on ends.
Torsion bar adjuster in loosely. Thanks to Roy, @SGBARRACUDA. Not sure whether its clocked correctly, back line on hex end vertical.
Still gotta wrestle the boot onto the crossmember.
Thanks all
Torsion bar adjuster in loosely. Thanks to Roy, @SGBARRACUDA. Not sure whether its clocked correctly, back line on hex end vertical.
Still gotta wrestle the boot onto the crossmember.
Thanks all
Drivers side in. All loose and hanging. Gotta figure out ride height next. Anyone got a measurement where my jack stand is to the ground? I'm at 21 1/2" right where front kframe mount on driver side bolts on.
Thanks!
Thanks!
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I did my engine bay and door jams and the area behind the fenders and it took right at a quart of bc/cc i did it outside using spi epoxy, moto base, and spi universal clear a harbor freight compressor and harbor freight hlvp spray gun.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Just did mine last week. They were vertical
Ironracer
Gearhead
Turn them in 10 turns from all play removed. Should be close. Remember not to do final torque on LCA. Just finger tight till final ride height set
Picked up Mevotech balljoints yesterday and some other goodies for the front end. Got one bolted to spindle. Holes lined up good but overspray was making the bolts bind a bit.
Dorman rubber brake lines dont fit in the bracket, so gonna have to grind 1 end if not both
Also bought nickel/copper lines and bent them for the jump lines on calipers.
WAAAYYYY nicer to work with than the standard steel lines. Might shorten them an inch or 2. Gotta get them mounted in car to see if they're in the way 1st.
Thanks again for all the help.
Dorman rubber brake lines dont fit in the bracket, so gonna have to grind 1 end if not both
Also bought nickel/copper lines and bent them for the jump lines on calipers.
WAAAYYYY nicer to work with than the standard steel lines. Might shorten them an inch or 2. Gotta get them mounted in car to see if they're in the way 1st.
Thanks again for all the help.
Thanks, I was able to bend the lines by hand. $3.50 each already flared. I was shocked how cheap they were.
Yeah the rubber hoses arent going to work dangit(dorman h71319) I have the star shaped bracket in the wheel well. Also the hose brackets that mount to caliper are the "D" shaped ones for 70+.
Thanks.
Yeah the rubber hoses arent going to work dangit(dorman h71319) I have the star shaped bracket in the wheel well. Also the hose brackets that mount to caliper are the "D" shaped ones for 70+.
Thanks.
Good work Steve. Kim
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Coming along nicely brother. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Troy, picked up 2 "balljoint to spindle" bolts today. Was kinda holding up progress(that and work 
).
).Coming along nicely brother. Keep up the good work!
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How are things coming along with the build Steve?
Hey Troy, not much to report. I got some brake lines hung up across firewall and to the rear. Car may be leaving to a new owner. Before snow flies hopefully.
The new owner is getting a great car. Hard to decide whether to be happy or sad.
Thanks Troy, I hear ya but I'm excited, get to bring home and focus on Dads 67. Selling the 69 frees up so much space, physically and mentally.
Congrats Steve on selling the 69. Kim
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
I'm sure it was tough to let it go but life's like that, Steve.
Where is it going?
Where is it going?
Thanks Tom, its staying here in Ontario far as I know.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
Good.
Hopefully the new owner will restore it to the level it deserves.
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