Kickdown issues lokar kickdown upgrade?

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Slantsix64

Slantsix64

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Hey guys, I been having an issue, when I adjust my edelbrock for Wot throttle and allow the kickdown to be adjusted so it can let carb achieve Wot the trans won’t kickdown and downshift and rev up, it only does that when I adjust it so it can’t give full Wot, maybe I would say 3/4 of full WOT.

Do I really need the carb to crack open all the way? Or is there a certain point where it doesn’t matter a.

I was thinking maybe it’s the geometry I have a 318 904 transmisson with a Rpm air gap style intake.

With all that said would a lokar cable kickdown cable fix all this would it allow me to achieve WOT and have that 904 kickdown ASAP. Thanks for your ideas
 
You are trying to achieve what is called passing gear at WOT. You need to install a part throttle kick down valve on the valve body . Easy to do just three screws. Also take the governor piston out and install a lighter one with a stronger spring from a 340 or max wedge trans. This will make the trans hold the shifts longer .

340 or max wedge governor on right. With a lathe you can make one , A&A sells them
img_20170318_121408-jpg.jpg


upload_2022-2-11_15-55-15.jpeg
 
Oldmanmopar said:
You are trying to achieve what is called passing gear at WOT. You need to install a part throttle kick down valve on the valve body . Easy to do just three screws. Also take the governor piston out and install a lighter one with a stronger spring from a 340 or max wedge trans. This will make the trans hold the shifts longer .

340 or max wedge governor on right. With a lathe you can make one , A&A sells them
View attachment 1715868140

View attachment 1715868137
Click to expand...
Hm okay so I guess with out this mod it will achieve what I need, I already had a transgo shift kit install into the transmisson.
 
The radius of the carb arm has to be compatible with the radius of the kickdown arm on the trans. Sometimes it's easier to change the arm on the trans. Sounds like the trans arm is too long. I guess you could try drilling a hole or two in it and try different ones. Make sure your kd linkage doesn't hang up the arm a little back. Put a spring on it.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
You are trying to achieve what is called passing gear at WOT. You need to install a part throttle kick down valve on the valve body . Easy to do just three screws. Also take the governor piston out and install a lighter one with a stronger spring from a 340 or max wedge trans. This will make the trans hold the shifts longer .

340 or max wedge governor on right. With a lathe you can make one , A&A sells them
View attachment 1715868140

View attachment 1715868137
Click to expand...
Do I have to unbolt the valve body from the transmisson? I think it’s a 73 a904
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
The radius of the carb arm has to be compatible with the radius of the kickdown arm on the trans. Sometimes it's easier to change the arm on the trans. Sounds like the trans arm is too long. I guess you could try drilling a hole or two in it and try different ones. Make sure your kd linkage doesn't hang up the arm a little back. Put a spring on it.
Click to expand...
Hm, I’ll have to look into this I don’t know what length is on there now.
 
This is how far back the carb opens, I can get it to open all the way but then I lose the quickness of that down shift. By adjusting the kick down
 
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Slantsix64 said:
This is how far back the carb opens, I can get it to open all the way but then I lose the quickness of that down shift. By adjusting the kick down
Click to expand...
The problem as mentioned above is the ratio needs to be correct. Changing the intake manifold often changes the location of the throttle/kickdown bracket. Any changes alters the original geometry. This is where I was when I installed my RPM Airgap. I could no longer use the OE kickdown so went with the Lokar. Problem resolved.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
The problem as mentioned above is the ratio needs to be correct. Changing the intake manifold often changes the location of the throttle/kickdown bracket. Any changes alters the original geometry. This is where I was when I installed my RPM Airgap. I could no longer use the OE kickdown so went with the Lokar. Problem resolved.
Click to expand...
Yes that’s what I’m thinking, you had got the cable and the bracket that mounts on the carb any steps I should be away of
 
The Lokar installation is pretty straight forward, so nothing special to note other than following their directions. Once the original parts are changed, it is very difficult to make things work they way they need to without additional modifications. The Lokar system resolved all of that for me, and I am happy with the result.
 
Slantsix64 said:
Hm, I’ll have to look into this I don’t know what length is on there now.
Click to expand...
You need to measure the travel of the carb throttle stud first. From closed to WOT. It’s likely to be about 1.150” +/- Regardless, At WOT you want the kickdown lever on the trans all the way back as well. I no longer run a kickdown (full manual) but when I did I had to drill a hole in the trans kd lever to get the ratio right. Also did this on a 78 Magnum (360/904) running a Street Demon 625 with the Lokar KD (original lever after being modified)

B892E756-CB3D-4432-B422-58B445D82A2E.jpeg


You have to do some math. Try and measure total carb throttle stud travel and report back

Example: A Street Demon 625 at WOT from closed

3F56C920-CEE4-4736-AF25-042443A30374.jpeg
 
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It's about ratios as some have mentioned. Once you deviate from stock, this is what happens.
 
I have to agree with the negative Lokar comment. To date, I have used and installed several of their products and have never liked them. Chinsey is the best description I have. IMO, Bouchillon has a much better product.
 
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