LA 360/5.9L Small Block Build - Advice?

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gwmax65

Magnum V8 Mopar
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Hello! I've pulled out a LA 360 motor earlier this year from my 1986 Dodge Ram W150 4x4 truck.

Long story short, the truck was given to me, it initially sat for 15 years and mostly had a severely high water concentration in the cooling system due to the ol' man forgetting to put more antifreeze in it long ago. One day as it was running (after I spent 2 weeks to get it to run), it began to puke antifreeze out the side of the block (I had flushed the cooling system prior to starting it up, so it had fresh antifreeze at the time), and initially I assumed a bad head gasket, but it turned out to be a rusted - through freeze plug behind the motor mount perch. Anyways, I attempted to sell the truck for $600 for a few months, no buyers, then parted it out eventually and made wayyyyy more parting it out than selling it whole. I've obviously kept the engine, and it's on the stand in the garage as of now.

I know it's got quite the amount of rust inside throughout the cooling jackets/system, but as I had it running it seemed to fire off of all 8 cylinders with hardly any problems, only a little smoke out the exhaust (I'll assume valve guide/umbrella seals are shot), and so I'm in a small debate whether I should do a complete rebuild or (what I like to call it) a 'half A' rebuild (re-gasket/seal - repaint - done). The motor had about 160,000 miles, whether those were hard miles under heavy loads or not, I dunno. The truck was 4-wheel drive also.

If I were to do it right, I would do a full rebuild. I have ordered brass freeze plugs for it to replace the rusty old steel ones. Have heard brass plugs aren't the best thing out there vs steel freeze plugs, but they seem to make the most sense to me to have brass plugs in there, such as - having no more rust issues, but possibly corrosion? Bet the brass plugs could become corrosive if the antifreeze isn't changed out after a certain amount of years, not really sure.

Anyways, I would think the head gaskets are probably good, maybe not if there was rust throughout the whole cooling system, cause I mean it sat for a good 15-17 years with mostly water in the system. I know it would be the ideal thing to pull the heads off and replace the head gaskets, but then that means taking the heads to a machine shop and having them check the heads for such and such, and that evidently means more $ out of my wallet. + if the heads are off to just replace the head gaskets, might as well go ahead and pop the cylinders out and replace the rings/do a whole rebuild (if you get where I'm getting at).

Not sure, give me some feedback!

If I do end up doing a full rebuild, I would want to bore it 0.010" over to correct any core shift, and maybe up my compression a bit, but still stay in the 3 standard octane fuel ranges from the gas station (don't want to run it with racing gas). I'd also really love to do a nice cam swap and get one of those wicked cool sounding wiplash cams, just not educated enough to know which cam I should get (another reason I've made this thread). Figure (if even possible) to get close to 400hp. I've considered a 408 stroker kit, but that's just too much $ for me to spend at the moment. This motor is going into my 1965 Plymouth Barracuda, and I have a 727 automatic out a '74 Dodge Charger that I will be using on it. I already got the minor trans tunnel modifications figured out for getting it in the '65 'Cuda.

So, yeah! Give me some advice on what you think I should do, and shoot me a variety of build lists for a LA 360 motor! Thanks all who've helped me in the past on here, this is really a great place to go to for any Mopar dilemmas!
 

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For anyone with questions about the red V8 in the '65 'Cuda, that was pulled from a 1965 Plymouth Valiant 200, it's a 273 2BBL. Initially the 'Cuda had a 225 Slant Six in it from factory. I've driven with this 273 for a matter of months, won't be driving it through the winter, I've got my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport 5.9L 4x4 Truck to do that haha. I've given this 273 to a relative, and am in the process of putting in a 1996 318/5.2L (converted to carbureted) motor in the '65 Plymouth Valiant 200. For those who are out there to discriminate me for parting out the '86 Dodge truck, wahhh, it wasn't worth the $$$ to get it road worthy at the time + fuel mileage would really suck haha.
 
I would do a complete rebuild , 160,000 miles with a fresh top end is asking for trouble . You have a good base to start with though , lots of good parts out there .
 
X2. With the shortblock at 160k miles you would have it back apart shortly. The exhaust choices are limited to the 273 manifolds or expensive headers. The most logical bore would be .030 over.
 
65cuda360, could you tell me your build on your 360?
 
A rebuild with KB 107 slugs is a great start.
 
X2. With the shortblock at 160k miles you would have it back apart shortly. The exhaust choices are limited to the 273 manifolds or expensive headers. The most logical bore would be .030 over.

If he doesn't have P/S couldn't he use the Dakota driver/360 mag passenger manifolds?? They have a super large exhaust port!!!

treblig
 
Mine is a stock rebuild (rings, bearings, timing set) on an 80k mile std. bore block, with X heads and a mild cam. It's dressed like the original commando engine my car came with.
 

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Here are some links for good deals:

Mancini racing "refresh klts"":

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/enrebkit.html


This Kit C would be a good start to consider for $412.

C-KIT Includes:

-Sealed Power Rod bearings

-Sealed Power Main bearings

-Sealed Power Cam Bearings

-Freeze Plugs

-Melling Oil Pump

-Felpro Gasket Set

-Sealed Power Rings (Moly)

-Sterling Pistons (Cast)

PLEASE INCLUDE RING, ROD AND MAIN SIZES IN COMMENT BOX.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sealpowkitc.html



Here's a good timing chain:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/edelbrock4.html
 
I think it's what you feel comfortable with. I'd rebuild it if it'sa long term solution. Do it mildly unless you plan to upgrade the exhaust stuff. Otherwise it's going to be choked off anyway - no sense in spending big coin to make lots of power that won't help you. A simple rebuild, upgrade the valves as noted (2.02/1.65) and a good performance valve job, and even with stock pistons and a mild cam it will be torqey in that car and run on pump crap.
 
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