Lares 16 to 1 manual box?

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Add in some modern day caster adjustment and you'll driving in a straight line forever... :D

You guys all have tiny little arms or something? ;) I'm not a big guy, and I have no issues driving my car with a 16:1 manual steering box. I've even had multiple shoulder injuries.

I run 275/35/18's on the front of my Duster. That's a 10" wide tread pattern. I run +3* caster at the moment, and will probably add some more when I install my SPC upper control arms. My Duster is my primary transportation, so it sees plenty of parking lots. Yes, it can be a little hard to park. And parallel parking definitely isn't fun. But I think I've only had to parallel park my car about twice in the couple years I've been driving it, so who cares? Once you get going about 10mph it's no big deal at all, and that's with a 275mm wide front tire.

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One factor which surely affects steering effort is front wheel offset. I bet even though those are big'n wide, the severe inward offset helps relieve steering effort.
 
One factor which surely affects steering effort is front wheel offset. I bet even though those are big'n wide, the severe inward offset helps relieve steering effort.

Offset is 27mm, or about 6.1" of backspace on a 9" wide rim. The tires take up every bit of available space from the frame to the fenders, you can't go any closer to the fenders with the tire regardless of the width at least at my ride height. I actually have more rim and tire to the outside of the rotors as I did with the 15x7" cop rims with 225/60/15's, .2" out further to the fender and 1.8" in toward the suspension. The steering effort is heavier compared to running the 225/60/15's with 15x7's and 4.25" backspace, as I ran the car for few thousand miles with that set up before switching to the 275/35/18's .

But you cheated a bit by replacing a lot of steel parts with aluminium stuff... :)

Not as much as a lot of folks. Cylinder heads are OE iron 308's. The Flaming River 16:1 box I run is steel and heavier than the aluminum stock manual gear. The intake is aluminum, so is the Holley Ultra 750 DP, and the car has headers. Rims are much lighter, but the tires are heavier, pretty much a wash compared to the 225/60/15's on cop rims I was running before. 13" brake kit is probably a little lighter even with the larger rotors, and the aluminum master cylinder is lighter, but all the chassis stiffening I added isn't. There's probably a good 10lbs of mig wire alone with the J bars, lower radiator brace, fully seam welded and reinforced stock K member, torque boxes and subframe connectors.

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I drove my 66 Barracuda for the second time yesterday since putting the Lares 16:1 manual gear in, and the car drives amazing. Harder to steer a lows speeds, but worth the trade off. Now to get the offset CA bushings in and dial in some more caster. I won't be scared to take it on a long trip now. Perhaps a trip to the Mopar Nationals for the 50th anniversary of the 1966 model year is in the cards.
 
I thought the power T/A boxes had 'tighter' internal stops that prevented the 12:1 final ratio from hitting the frame? Whatever, thats outside this post.
 
Old thread but brought back to life for any one looking for 16:1 manual box.
How does a new Lares Manual 16:1 box from Rock Auto for $284 without core sound? :thumbsup:
$8.99 shipping to my house.
Could have bought 2 ones for what I paid FF to rebuild my original box. :(

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Oh well.... maybe next project.
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