Last one to post in this thread wins!

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I should cut the neighbor's grass, but it's rained here so much since Saturday I'm not sure if it will be dry enough to cut...

Need to see if I have a bolt for the trans shift linkage that goes into the frame for the bracket on the left side.... The last person to work on the RoadRunner sure was a hack and did a **** job... They left the bolt out for the shift linkage bar.... Then only put one of the original the trans mount bolts in and the three other bolts that they put in there are too long and two of them have nuts on them which don't even get to the frame before bottoming on the threads of the bolts, and the of the long bolts doesn't even have a nut on it, just the bolt... WTF???? :wtf:

This is why I like to do my own work... Some people just have no business working on cars... :mad:

I may start another section for my how to rebuild a small block series in the How to section... I finished up one yesterday that I started this weekend... So far I am up to installing the rings on the pistons, now I have to write the next one to install the pistons in the block....
I found mickey mouse stuff on cars that am surprised the thing went down the road. Yes some people should never wrench on a car.
I'll have to check out your how to trend.
 
Morning krazykuda anything happening in your day?

Premeditated.jpg
 
Sounds good . My son just bought a 318 in a basket so the how to section sure will help ! He said he got a good deal only 50 bucks....we will see...lol.

318's are good to build... You can get them cheap and they make very good reliable daily driver engines... I had one that we got with 60,000 miles and refreshed it twice... Had it in three cars and put it up to 500,000 miles on a standard bore....

Throw on a set of 340/360 heads with hardened seats and 2.02" intake valves, put a good double roller timing chain in, and use a 68 - 71 340 as your benchmark for building it... Mine had a stock 340 cam with Rhoades variable duration lifters, 9.2 compression, a 68 - 69 340 intake with a Holley 600 vacuum secondary cam... It idled at 22.5" mercury vacuum and got 17.75 mpg highway with a 2.76 gear.... Plus it was fun to drive, it would go when you kicked it.... :D :steering:

We had a set of 10.5 pistons and with the larger combustion chambers of the 340/360 heads it worked out to be 9.2:1 compression - perfect!!!!
 
I found mickey mouse stuff on cars that am surprised the thing went down the road. Yes some people should never wrench on a car.
I'll have to check out your how to trend.

The scary thing is I hope it wasn't that way when I had it up to 130+ MPH the last time it was on the road in 1988.... :eek:
 
Sounds good . My son just bought a 318 in a basket so the how to section sure will help ! He said he got a good deal only 50 bucks....we will see...lol.

The how to articles are mainly to focus on how to assemble the parts, not how to make *** amount of horsepower...

But if he needs any advice on how to get some good hp to make it a good running engine, give me a shout... I've been building small blocks for over 30 years now... I know what combination of parts will work well together...
 
The how to articles are mainly to focus on how to assemble the parts, not how to make *** amount of horsepower...

But if he needs any advice on how to get some good hp to make it a good running engine, give me a shout... I've been building small blocks for over 30 years now... I know what combination of parts will work well together...
My problem is making hp I have know idea so will let you experts figure it for me.
The engine I'm putting in my car is gonna be all set up so I shouldn't mess it up. lol
 
My problem is making hp I have know idea so will let you experts figure it for me.
The engine I'm putting in my car is gonna be all set up so I shouldn't mess it up. lol

For the street, you want to keep the cam duration in the 268° - 280° range, try to get the compression in the high 8's to 9.5... Anything from 9.0 - 9.5 is the most desireable... Run a good double roller timing chain.... Dual plane intake, around 600/625 CFM carb with electric choke for daily cruising, and dual exhaust....
 
For the street, you want to keep the cam duration in the 268° - 280° range, try to get the compression in the high 8's to 9.5... Anything from 9.0 - 9.5 is the most desireable... Run a good double roller timing chain.... Dual plane intake, around 600/625 CFM carb with electric choke for daily cruising, and dual exhaust....
I bought a stroked 360 from Blueprint engines the new one with roller rockers and engine is a complete turn key set up and hoping it's street friendly. Was wanting to build my own but after checking prices this was cheaper for me.
 
For the street, you want to keep the cam duration in the 268° - 280° range, try to get the compression in the high 8's to 9.5... Anything from 9.0 - 9.5 is the most desireable... Run a good double roller timing chain.... Dual plane intake, around 600/625 CFM carb with electric choke for daily cruising, and dual exhaust....
You think a dual plane is better than a single plane for the street ?
 
Was just checking out the installing rings section and you do a great job showing how to do it right. Good job.

I used to write all of the operator instructions for each station on an engine assembly line, so I have alot of experience on explaining how to explain how to build an engine... The goal of each operator instruction sheet was for them to be able to read the instruction sheet and do the job without any other instruction.... The line supervisors in each section were to busy trying to make sure that they had a person to cover every job and they had enough parts for each station before the assembly line started and couldn't go to each operator and explain how to do their job... When the regular operators had a day off or were sick, the replacement for that day needed to know how to do that job, the instruction sheet had to be detailed enough for anybody to read and be able to do that operation for that station...
 
I used to write all of the operator instructions for each station on an engine assembly line, so I have alot of experience on explaining how to explain how to build an engine... The goal of each operator instruction sheet was for them to be able to read the instruction sheet and do the job without any other instruction.... The line supervisors in each section were to busy trying to make sure that they had a person to cover every job and they had enough parts for each station before the assembly line started and couldn't go to each operator and explain how to do their job... When the regular operators had a day off or were sick, the replacement for that day needed to know how to do that job, the instruction sheet had to be detailed enough for anybody to read and be able to do that operation for that station...
Well you know your engines for sure. Was that mopar,Ford or Chevy plant.
 
You think a dual plane is better than a single plane for the street ?

Yes, dual plane intakes have more torque and power in the low and mid range...

Single plane intakes have strong power in the mid and upper range...

By splitting the intake in half, the vacuum signal is stronger in a dual plane than an open plenum in the single plane (dual planes have less volume so the signal doesn't get 'lost')... Plus single plane intakes typically have shorter runners than a dual plane... Shorter runners work well in high RPM, where longer runners are tuned in better for lower RPM.... The open plenum in the single plane also allows the other cylinders to "steal" some air fuel from the other cylinders while they are not using it which is a benefit for higher RPM...

If you study fluid dynamics which applies to air flow also, for the same area runner, the longer runner is tuned for lower RPM and short runners are tuned for higher RPM... At low RPM there is more time for the charge to get from the carb to the valve... At higher RPM there is not as much time for the charge to travel, so a shorter runner is tuned in...

That's the theory that they used in designing the cross ram for the super stock engines... As the valve opens and closes, it creates a "pulse" in the intake... You want to tune that pulse in so as the valve opens the charge from the carburetor is just arriving at the valve and it has momentum to fill the cylinder just as the valve opens... That is how they were able to achieve 100% volumetric efficiency at 6500 RPM for the super stock Max Wedge engines... It's very difficult to achieve 100% volumetric efficiency in any engine even with today's computer technology to help design them... I(f the valve was not open when the charge pulse arrived, it would interrupt the air flow...

There are some good dual plane intakes for small blocks... I love the LD340 series from Edelbrock, however they are obsolete and pull good money... Another good dual plane intake for the small block is the Wiand Stealth that has a power range from idle to 6800 RPM and is still available new today....

Here's a link to the Holley page for the Wiand Stealth... Holley bought out Wiand and now owns them...

Weiand 8022WND Weiand Stealth™ Intake - Chrysler Small Block V8


Here is the summit racing page for it:

Weiand Stealth Intake Manifolds 8022WND



By splitting the plenum in half like the dual planes do, you get a stronger signal at the carburetor to help pull the air through the carburetor at lower RPM's... Then using a carburetor base gasket with the divider in the center you keep that strong signal all the way to the carb.... I like to use this gasket with the split center and is also 5/16" thick to help insulate the carb from heat and boiling the fuel to prevent vapor lock... The edelbrock gasket even comes with the correct mounting studs and nuts....

Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gasket

Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gaskets 9266


Here's the comparable gasket from Holley, but it doesn't come with the mounting studs and nuts....

Holley 108-18 Base Gasket


Summit racing listing:

Holley Carburetor Base Plate Gaskets 108-18


A dual plane will give you better throttle response in the street RPM range...
 
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Yes, dual plane intakes have more torque and power in the low and mid range...

Single plane intakes have strong power in the mid and upper range...

By splitting the intake in half, the vacuum signal is stronger in a dual plane than an open plenum in the single plane (dual planes have less volume so the signal doesn't get 'lost')... Plus single plane intakes typically have shorter runners than a dual plane... Shorter runners work well in high RPM, where longer runners are tuned in better for lower RPM.... The open plenum in the single plane also allows the other cylinders to "steal" some air fuel from the other cylinders while they are not using it which is a benefit for higher RPM...

If you study fluid dynamics which applies to air flow also, for the same area runner, the longer runner is tuned for lower RPM and short runners are tuned for higher RPM... At low RPM there is more time for the charge to get from the carb to the valve... At higher RPM there is not as much time for the charge to travel, so a shorter runner is tuned in...

That's the theory that they used in designing the cross ram for the super stock engines... As the valve opens and closes, it creates a "pulse" in the intake... You want to tune that pulse in so as the valve opens the charge from the carburetor is just arriving at the valve and it has momentum to fill the cylinder just as the valve opens... That is how they were able to achieve 100% volumetric efficiency at 6500 RPM for the super stock Max Wedge engines... It's very difficult to achieve 100% volumetric efficiency in any engine even with today's computer technology to help design them... I(f the valve was not open when the charge pulse arrived, it would interrupt the air flow...

There are some good dual plane intakes for small blocks... I love the LD340 series from Edelbrock, however they are obsolete and pull good money... Another good dual plane intake for the small block is the Wiand Stealth that has a power range from idle to 6800 RPM and is still available new today....

Here's a link to the Holley page for the Wiand Stealth... Holley bought out Wiand and now owns them...

Weiand 8022WND Weiand Stealth™ Intake - Chrysler Small Block V8


Here is the summit racing page for it:

Weiand Stealth Intake Manifolds 8022WND



By splitting the plenum in half like the dual planes do, you get a stronger signal at the carburetor to help pull the air through the carburetor at lower RPM's... Then using a carburetor base gasket with the divider in the center you keep that strong signal all the way to the carb.... I like to use this gasket with the split center and is also 5/16" thick to help insulate the carb from heat and boiling the fuel to prevent vapor lock... The edelbrock gasket even comes with the correct mounting studs and nuts....

Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gasket

Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gaskets 9266


Here's the comparable gasket from Holley, but it doesn't come with the mounting studs and nuts....

Holley 108-18 Base Gasket


Summit racing listing:

Holley Carburetor Base Plate Gaskets 108-18


A dual plane will give you better throttle response in the street RPM range...
I'm learning thanks for the info.
 
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Got the under coating off the inside fenders and ran a sander over it and found some rust. I remember not wanting to take the under coating off because it looked good and BP telling me I should take it off. Glad I listened to him, Thanks BP.
 
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